Compact Jr., Cliff's Rebuild, Need help, suggestions, updates, etc... Options

[Tim Wood]

Phil, That's a great looking job on the boot, I like the use of the oak strips.

[Rick Brown]

Phil, your top looks great. This is how I made my top.

1. Mark each the corner of the to top and the corner of the raised section on the trailer. These were my starting and finishing points for measurements
2. I then drew a straight line around the inside of the pop up and on the bottom edge of the raised lip on the trailer. This line is were I wanted the top to reach.
3. I then measured the distance between the pop up line and the bottom line on the lip. This is done on both sides and the front and back
4. My wife and I bought a sewing machine!!!!!!! This was scary because we didn't have that much experience in sewing things but I knew we had to either make or have someone make the top, curtains and cushions covers, which would have been big bucks. We saved about $800.00 doing it ourself. Its not any more difficult then working with wood except your saw is replaced with a pair of scissors and your nails are thread.
5. Taking the measurements, I made the long panels approx 1' longer then my pop up measurement and 1" wider then my measurement from the pop up top, to the trailer (width). This will give you a 1/2" seam on top and bottom. I drew a straight edge 1/2" down on each long side of the panel. Using seam taps I folded over and ironed the panel on my straight edge. This gave my wife a nice seam to sew on. We also ironed on Velcro because I wanted to remove the top for cleaning. Using the Velcro on the top did not work because glue on the Velcro would not hold on the top but did work on the bottom.
6. I made each end panels the same way.
7. If you want windows mark the center of each panel and draw out your window and cut out the window, remember to mark the window edges 1/2" smaller then your window. This edge you will fold over for your seam around the window, then I placed Velcro around the edge and sewed the edge. You will only need Velcro around the top and sides of the window.
8. The door for the window is made 1" larger then the window. This will give you a 1/2" seam to fold over and 1/2" to over lap the window. Velcro is only needed on the top and sides, the bottom will be sewn on the bottom edge of the window. To open the window all you have to do is pull the cover open.
9. Do the same with the other panels.
10. I then hung the panels from the top and using the marks I put in the corners, marked each panel and added 1" for the seam. This gives you the length and angle for each panel. To connect the panels I used Velcro so I could remove one or all the panels easily or you could sew them together

I like the way Phil hung the top, it gives that finished look but I would consider using Velcro along the bottom. I found that my top was so tight fitting that to lower the top I had to loosen the bottom of the back to put it down. I would also consider using aluminum for around the bottom. Its strong light and won't rot.

Now that I confused everybody I will stop

[Steve Hilby]

Now that I confused everybody I will stop.

I'm not confused; that seemed very clear to me. On my sister's Compact Jr, the top boot is a bit scruffy-looking, especially the windows, so I suppose sooner or later she's going to have to bite the bullet and make/buy a new one.

One thing about hers: There's a long bungee cord all around the top, about halfway up. When you're lowering the roof it pulls the top inward, kind of automatically stowing it. I imagine that without it, keeping the top tucked out of the way during the lowering process would be a lot harder. You can see it in this picture:
 Overall_tarp_view.jpg ( 161.93K ) Number of downloads: 106

[JenPB]

I'm glad you pointed out the bungee cord, Steve! My dad's newfangled pop-up camper has double-wall construction on the canvas, so there are two bungees attached to d-rings on the INTERIOR. This works great, but if it were single-wall construction like our Jr. tops, I figure the D-rings (or whatever I use to attach the cord) would just be leakage spots. I think I can get that cording at my local craft shop or hardware store. Will check it in the a.m. 'cause it IS a pain to get it all tucked in with one not-QUITE-tall-enough adult doing the teardown.

[Rick Brown]

Steve, Thanks for the picture. It IS A PAIN to lower the top and make sure the sides are tucked in. I think I could incorporate the bung cord inside the top. Thanks for the tip
Rick

[Bobbie Mayer]

Steve, Thanks for the picture. It IS A PAIN to lower the top and make sure the sides are tucked in. I think I could incorporate the bung cord inside the top. Thanks for the tip
Rick

Same problem here... with the Campster. If you do figure out how to add the cord let us know. One of these days I might try to figure out a new top but the way it is attached in the Campster does not appear to lend itself to easy replacement.

Bobbie

[Raya L.]

Same problem here... with the Campster. If you do figure out how to add the cord let us know. One of these days I might try to figure out a new top but the way it is attached in the Campster does not appear to lend itself to easy replacement.

Bobbie

I had remembered some kind of bungie-type system on the Puck I looked at (aluminum trailer with pop-top section), but hadn't taken any photos. So, when Tilden posted his Puck for sale yesterday I went to look at the photos to take a look at it. Luckily it shows up. I PMed him to ask what it was made of and he said it was like a thick piece of (metal) wire. That jogged my memory and I think that's what was on the Puck I saw as well.

I remember pulling the top down when I looked at it and I don't remember any big hassle with gathering it in, so this must work like a bungie. It's probably easier to do on a round top, of course.

Anyway, I thought I'd post photos in case they might be helpful to some Compact/Campster, etc. owners. I have larger file sizes if those would help anyone.

Raya

 puck_with_bungie_top_small.jpg ( 21.66K ) Number of downloads: 79


 puck_with_bungie_top_2_small.jpg ( 24.72K ) Number of downloads: 57


 puck_with_bungie_top_3_small.jpg ( 22.91K ) Number of downloads: 68


 Puck_with_bungie_top_4_small.jpg ( 20.44K ) Number of downloads: 69

[JenPB]

I ran down to the fabric store today and picked up some 1/8" elastic cord, happened to be black (all they had), bought 24 feet of it (easily 4' overkill), wrapped it around the boot, pulled it tight and knotted the loop. Works so much better, but there's still one edge that wants to stick out. I suspect adjusting where the elastic sits might take care of this.

Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)

Jen

[Steve Hilby]

Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)

Jen

There's nothing keeping the bungee in place. However, her boot is kind of loose (baggy) and the elastic just naturally gravitates to the center. (Take another look at the picture and I think you'll be able to see what I mean.)

No reason you couldn't stitch a little loop on at each corner to keep the bungee in place. I don't imagine you'd have any leakage worth noticing, and if you did, you could get some of that seam-seal stuff the hikers use and put a bit on.

[JenPB]

I ran down to the fabric store today and picked up some 1/8" elastic cord, happened to be black (all they had), bought 24 feet of it (easily 4' overkill), wrapped it around the boot, pulled it tight and knotted the loop. Works so much better, but there's still one edge that wants to stick out. I suspect adjusting where the elastic sits might take care of this.

Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)

Jen

Seven months later and I'm happy to report the bungee/elastic cord around the outside works WONDERfully for getting my saggy old boot tucked in when I drop the top! I'd LIKE to replace the top, but for now, this is working well. And even once I replace it, I think I'll do the same thing, though incorporate it in a cleaner fashion. The cord has not crept into odd positions as I'd anticipated. A good quick solution. Thanks, Steve (and sister)!

[Bruce Thomas]

Cliff, Its a tuff call either way you deal with it, I'm not standing in front of the old frame to see what you are seeing. But I'm sure some others may have a good idea to help you out. If your like me you want to get away without breaking the bank, so maybe you can just replace some of the real bad pieces. It may not hurt to have a welding guy near you to stop by and take a look. I brought up the galvanized steel because that's what I was going to do when I thought about building a teardrop. Tim

if you use galv steel for any build.you have to grind off the coating where you are going to be welding.and the you have burned spots that need treating with zinc or something...most galvanized products are galvanized after fabrication and welding.....so if you do make a trailer chassis or repair, it can be done later.......Bruce

[Cliff]

if you use galv steel for any build.you have to grind off the coating where you are going to be welding.and the you have burned spots that need treating with zinc or something...most galvanized products are galvanized after fabrication and welding.....so if you do make a trailer chassis or repair, it can be done later.......Bruce

Bruce,
It's been a while since I posted updates. Frame surgery completed, body painted and mounted, floor installed with linoleum. While managing the floor into place... Crack went the front window, added expense, oh well. I had just installed it using a fresh framed window moldings on the inside.

I purchased the bungee cord to use on the canvas top when the time comes.

 1_3_2009_8_57_00_PM_0057.jpg ( 94.21K ) Number of downloads: 24
 1_3_2009_8_57_03_PM_0058.jpg ( 75.14K ) Number of downloads: 26
 1_3_2009_8_57_04_PM_0059.jpg ( 85.81K ) Number of downloads: 25

 

[Larry & Carrie]

Bruce,
It's been a while since I posted updates. Frame surgery completed, body painted and mounted, floor installed with linoleum. While managing the floor into place... Crack went the front window, added expense, oh well. I had just installed it using a fresh framed window moldings on the inside.

I purchased the bungee cord to use on the canvas top when the time comes.

Cliff--- now, that tongue looks a lot more respectable than what you started with. Good job- shouldn't flex now. Larry

[Cliff]

Cliff--- now, that tongue looks a lot more respectable than what you started with. Good job- shouldn't flex now. Larry

Larry,
Thanks, I followed your lead, and installed a truss underneath the front section, and the extra cross member support. You can't see it in the picture very well.