Generator mod on 13 Scamp Options

[Pete Dumbleton]

OK, got it, just wanted to be sure.

BTW, that's an excellent job you are doing on the carrier, but you already know it is! <g>

[Lizbeth]

Joy very nice mod! I'm looking forward to seeing it done. I've been pondering trying to fit mine on the tongue of the Boler. I agree that carrying it in the vehicle doesn't cut it.

[Roy in TO]

This is simply an extension cord run from one end to the other of the trailer. Instead of the female end just laying there in the compartment it's wired into an outlet. There is no power going through it until I start the generator. I simply have twp options, either plug the trailer cord into shore power OR the generator, not both at once. The cord when connecting to the Shore power goes outside to the electric standard. The cord when connecting to the generator simply plugs into the outlet.

Now I'm confused. From what I think I'm reading both could be plugged into power sources at the same time. A simple and safe method would be to just plug the trailer power cord into the generator when needed. That way someone who is not familiar with your trailer could not make a mistake.

[Roy in TO]

Sorry I missed the quote below in your earlier post.
I was thinking you wired the new cord into an existing outlet, not a new outlet only connected to the generator.
My apologies.

There I wired the cord to an outlet.
... to connect the Scamp to the gen all I have to do is open the electrical door on the side, reach in and plug the Scamp cord into the outlet. No cords drapping outside while using the gen.

[Joy A]

Well, I finished the lid and my project last night and here it is:

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I added all the deck plates because I had in mind to rivet the top on. Since I decided to hinge the top and secure it with a locking hasp I find the only deck plate I really needed was the large one on the left side for exhaust.

Hey, that's OK if I want to start the generator and don't have my keys at hand I can do so because all the deck plates allow me access.

This post has been edited by Joy A: Feb 27 2009, 12:16 PM

[Joy A]

Donna,

I secured the piano hinge on top of the frame and then under the lid which gave me more clearance from the Scamp rather than if I had secure to the back of the box.

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I forgot to measure it but the bumpers I put on the back of the box are about 1/2 thick and they don't touch. The box is probably 3/4 to 1 inch from the Scamp at it's closest.

This post has been edited by Joy A: Feb 27 2009, 12:38 PM

[Joy A]

Finally, if you recall I made the box removable and it's locked on with locking hasps. Here's a couple of pictures.

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[Donna D.]

Donna,
I secured the piano hinge on top of the frame and then under the lid which gave me more clearance from the Scamp rather than if I had secure to the back of the box.

Cool beans! Looks like quite the ticket for everything Joy.

[Bill K]

Donna,
I can't begin to tell you how long it's been since I heard the saying "Cool Beans"

I would guess when I was a teenager, and Im no spring chicken.

Bill K



" Cool beans! "

[Donna D.]

I would guess when I was a teenager, and Im no spring chicken.

Bill K



" Cool beans! "

I'm not a pullet either Bill maybe that's why it felt so right to say it!

[Coach George Jes...]

Didnt go back and reread this whole thread. My apologies if you answered this already.

Do you also have it clamped or bolted to the frame? Eliminating vibration and ability to hop up and down a little is my reason for asking.

Your locking hasp look like they will allow travel up and down 1/2 inch or so they are not enough to cinch the whole unit tightly down.

[Roy in TO]

Your locking hasp look like they will allow travel up and down 1/2 inch or so they are not enough to cinch the whole unit tightly down.

Maybe we are seeing different things. I see the hasp held in place by a six sided elevation beneath the rotating lock in the second picture of the hasp. Looks like there might be a little room to wiggle but not 1/2 an inch.

Do you see something different?

[Mike T]

Hi Joy, thanks for sharing the excellent ideas and your project looks awesome! Nice work!

I have a question on the hasps as well. Before deciding on what style of lock to use, was road grime and it's potential ability to gum up the lock tumblers ever a concern? Can you get rubber covers for those hasps you're using? I understand those displayed can be locked and secured separately

Mike

[Coach George Jes...]

Maybe we are seeing different things. I see the hasp held in place by a six sided elevation beneath the rotating lock in the...
Do you see something different?

if that is how it works then you should be pretty good to go. I thought it was a larger cut out in the hasp so it will slip over tumbler body but once that's rotated to lock the tumbler shaft could travel up and down full distance of the hasp's opening, but still unable to remove item due to horizntal position of tumber body.

Knowing better now how it works; it looks "fine". Looks like it would work "real good" if you put a piece of squashable rubber or neopreme as a mat below the unit. Just enough that when you go to lock it you have to squash it down tightly to allign the lock.

This would provide tension to make it void of vibrating. Will help prevent lot of wear and tear on things if you put lots of miles on her or if you get into your share of bad roads.

BTW- Looks great

[Parker Buckley]

Question:

I know this type of generator is very quiet, but I'm still curious to know what folks' experience might be in terms of noise and vibration with them fasted directly to the trailer. There is one in our future, probably this year. We'll probably start out leaving it portable, but mounting it on the the tongue (also a 13' Scamp) would certainly have a lot of advantages. Thanks for posting your installation details. Very nice setup.

Parker

This post has been edited by Parker Buckley: Feb 28 2009, 01:01 PM