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> Making portable solar panels less annoying, on the set up side...quick and easy
Gina D.
post May 27 2009, 09:24 PM
Post #1


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



I have mentioned that I recently upgraded my solar panel system from 3 folding amorphious 13 watters and a rock guard mounted 15 watt unit. I purchased 2 50w multicrystalline panels (At a great price.. 185 each!)

My original intent was to roof mount the new panels, however, I just can not get past the limitations of having shaded panels in a nice site, or really exposed ones in a very hot site. I opted to leave them as portable.

The two panels at 100 watts total are 50% lighter than my other set up, and moving each panel is hardly a strain. They are so light (No sorry, I haven't weighed them) that I can snag them with two fingers and not stress an arm muscle at all. SOOO... they take care of them selves when it comes to the wrestling downside of portables.

Attaching to the battery.. well, that has always been a time consumer for set up and strike. My last system had a nice harness and junction box, but with 4 panels to connect, it still took a few minutes, even without tools.

Here is the "new" system, (Well, the "Master panel, anyway.. I'll explain the two connected later) all set up with a tidy little box of unknown origin that bolts neatly to the trailer frame.




Attached File  masterpanelsetupcomplete.jpg ( 256.06K ) Number of downloads: 234
 


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Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Gina D.
post May 27 2009, 09:35 PM
Post #2


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



First, the "Box". I am not sure what the original use for the box part is.. I saw it all on it's lonesome in an RV parts store near the trailer connectors. It came premade with the braket you see. The large hole in the braket makes me think it is some sort of large connector mounting bracket and the box may be for cables.. or some sort of electronics.. who knows.. but it works for me.

The premounted bolt arrangement reminded me of my hitch mirror set up and a light bulb went off in my head. I could mount connectors and my new 12 amp charge controller in there. So, I did.

Attached File  controlbox.jpg ( 212.58K ) Number of downloads: 182
Attached File  controlboxclosed.jpg ( 230.25K ) Number of downloads: 120


I used a car end 7 pin bargman socket on the end, so my "direct" connection to the battery is the trailers own pigtail. The output of the controller is connected to the charge pin of the trailer pigtail connection, and of course, the ground.

The input to the controller is wired to a 5 pin bargman style round pin socket (Only 2 pins used)

The box will not live on the frame permanently, tho that would be nice. For now I will just secure it there with a couple turns of the thumb. The bolt does not seem to bite hard enough for me to be comfortable driving with it attached. I will think of a way to do it, but for now, this still is pretty neat and out of the way and not much bother.


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Gina D.
post May 27 2009, 09:50 PM
Post #3


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



The cable from the panel has two 5 pin bargman connectors (One on each end.. doh!) and connects to the output of the "Master" panel which has a socket just like you see on the box input

Attached File  masterpanelconnect.jpg ( 50.14K ) Number of downloads: 105


The socket is mounted in a "Grip Clip", the things you squeeze the handles of your rake, broom etc in, and angled at about 45 degrees for better suport and easier connection. It is held in by friction, and a type of super glue used in electronics for bonding metal to metal (3m "super" adhesive"). The friction grip is very tight, but I wanted a little extra security in case of snags etc, so thus.. the glue.

The "Master" panel has to parallel off to the second panel, so it has an additional pigtail and 5 pin connector to run off to the second panel, which will have a connection as pictured above only. If I get more panels, I can add another pigtail, but I doubt I will be adding.. I have 115 watts total and that seem MORE than enuff for my needs. (Time will tell)

The connector end of the pigtail is stowed in another grip clip for travel. It is not glued :-P. The pigtail as pictured is in it's stowed position.. the wire actually tucks inside the frame and with the clip it stays out of the way on it's own.
Attached File  masterpanelpigtailconnector.jpg ( 57.96K ) Number of downloads: 48
 


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Gina D.
post May 27 2009, 09:57 PM
Post #4


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



I went with the tripod stand design. After having owned an array that was on two legs, and some experimenting with stability last week, it is my experience that two legs are a pain. One is always off the ground, the two swing independently and get caught on things, making them hard to move and stow.

One leg in the center provides the needed support and angle, and the full frontal footprint of the panel provides the stability.
Attached File  masterpanelpigtailandhinge.jpg ( 47.34K ) Number of downloads: 87


I used shutter hinges. I wish this looked a little better, but joe and bubbas weed, feed, hardware and satelite tv store here only had brass ones.. so, I get the rolex look. I gasketed under the mating parts to eliminate alloy mixing, but I don't think it would be and issue in this application.. it's purely mechanical and will probably still be fine long after I leave this earth.

The leg is a 3/4 inch square hollow aluminum tube, length is the full hieght of the panel and the "Foot" end is angled slightly so it will bite into the ground. The leg is stopped by the bottom edge of the panel frame so it will not drop into the back of the panel and potentially break it. It also makes a nice stop bar and longer items can be stow behing or on "Top" of the panels (They ride face down" without contacting the back of the glass.


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Russ & Maria...
post May 28 2009, 05:52 AM
Post #5


Member
Location: Hereford, AZ
RV Type:2008 Lil' Bunk 18 foot (Aluminum frame, bonded walls) TUG: 1975 IH Scout II



Gina,

Looks great, well thought out. Real easy to set up and stow.

I do have a question from the windy edge of the state. We had a small 5th wheel travel trailer blown over in 2007. It totaled our stickie.

Do you have a provision for tying the solar collector to the ground?

Probably need something a little less than my solution. happy.gif

Attached File  Chained.JPG ( 73.8K ) Number of downloads: 129


Russ


--------------------
"Suddenly retired"
Still plays with trucks
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Gina D.
post May 28 2009, 06:38 AM
Post #6


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



hmnnn.. yes.. I am thinking that *may* be a bit of overkill :-P

I have not fashion my security system yet.It will consist of a steel flatbar and some locks which will also serve as a way to mechanically couple the panels. This bar will have a place to run my Kryptonite lock thru. I don't think it will keep them from sailing in a galeforce wind, but it will at least keep them in the campsite.

Your solution would work better for theft twarting


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Gina D.
post May 28 2009, 06:48 AM
Post #7


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



the Tekonsha stamp on the little box gave me a clue to what it was...

Breakaway switch kit

So, I was close.. the box is supposed to hold a little battery and the break away switch, and it is intended to mount to the frame as I am doing.

It pays to dig thru the junk piles and bargain bins


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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peterh
post May 28 2009, 06:52 AM
Post #8


Member
Location: Portland, Oregon Metro Area
RV Type:2005 Scamp 5th Wheel



Bravo Gina! Well thought out, implemented and explained. goodposting.gif


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Joe Z
post May 28 2009, 12:29 PM
Post #9


Member
Location: Lower Alsace Twp, PA
RV Type:16' Casita SD



Gina..... Really Great Job. Much better than my setup. I especially like the way you have the controller inside that breakaway box.............I may have to re-think my setup and thanks for the pictures.
Joe


--------------------
Joe & Linda
07' Ram 4 Door Hemi
94' SD 16'
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Lizbeth
post May 28 2009, 01:45 PM
Post #10


Member
Location: Lakewood,Ca
RV Type:1979 13ft Boler and 1987 Bigfoot 5th wheel



Well now Eric is going to REALLY want your set up. He has been drooling over the solar panels you bought for days.


--------------------
Life should not be measured by how many breaths we take, but in moments that take our breath away.
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Ian-Vicki
post May 28 2009, 03:13 PM
Post #11


Member
Location: Pender Island, B.C.
RV Type:17' Burro widebody, TV 2007 Ford Ranger



QUOTE (Gina D. @ May 27 2009, 10:35 PM) *
The box will not live on the frame permanently, tho that would be nice. For now I will just secure it there with a couple turns of the thumb.
Perhaps you could drill a couple of holes in the box, and use a u-bolt to secure the box to the frame without perforating the box steel?
By the way, I'm going to copy all of this.
cheers
ian


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theresa p
post May 28 2009, 04:06 PM
Post #12


Member
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
RV Type:Outback by Trillium, 2004



Looks Great

Curious to know where you bought these panels and if they sell the controller/monitor too. We are looking at going to solar for our lot as we have no electric there.

Thanks

Dennis
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Gina D.
post May 28 2009, 04:54 PM
Post #13


Moderator
Location: Fulltimer!
RV Type:Burro ~ 17 ft Wide Body, '99, 06 RED Jeep Liberty



thanks.

I bought the panels from Sun Electric in Florida, but it appears as tho the 50 watt panels are no longer available.

They have 120 watt version for 309! THATS CHEAP!

As the pictures show, the box was specifically designed to hang on the frame, but.. I am not sure what they were thinking with the floating pem nut in there.. it's wobbly. It seem to tighten well enough, but it goes a little kah kah sideways when tightened. I am thinking a backer plate of some sort, or I will find a big old nut to put on the end to make a landing pad.

I am going to keep my rockguard panel, but I bought one of the group 29s from wally world and there is no room in the battery box for my second controller. I bet it will fit in the top of the box.

Liz, Eric is spending all your money!!!


--------------------
Go to your Room! Don't MAKE me get my flying Monkeys, Mr.!
Day 1 of fulltiming: 3-12-2009..It starts with just getting rid of one bag of stuff.. the rest is easy
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Bill F.
post May 28 2009, 05:22 PM
Post #14


Member
Location: Alliston,Ontario
RV Type:92 Bigfoot 13.5 / 05 Freestar



QUOTE (theresa p @ May 28 2009, 08:06 PM) *
Looks Great

Curious to know where you bought these panels and if they sell the controller/monitor too. We are looking at going to solar for our lot as we have no electric their.

Thanks

Dennis

Hi Dennis,
Are you aware of www.renewcanada.com( somewhere in NB), no exchange or customs hassle. Their business is off grid so they have some experience. They may not have panels at US prices but I'm going to the post office in the morning to pick up my controller and monitor purchased there. I found a 115Watt monocrystalline Chinese panel locally for C$445.00. Gina's price would be about US$3.70/watt and mine was C$3.87/watt so if you look hard enough you might find something local to avoid shipping and customs charges.
Bill


--------------------

"Simplicity taken to the extreme becomes elegance"
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H. David & L...
post May 28 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #15


Member
Location: In the GeezerEgg, on the road ...
RV Type:1993 Scamp 13'



As usual, a wonderful job of problem-solving complete with tutorial - Thanx, Electro-woman! This will be the way we go if we add more 'oomph' to our solar setup. Hope all's well in the mountains - L 'n D


--------------------
Friendship is precious, not only in the shade, but in the sunshine of life,
and thanks to a benevolent arrangement, the greater part of life is sunshine.
~~ Thomas Jefferson

http://www.debeauxonline.com/
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