For those of you that may be interested, I have uploaded a large batch of photos to
Webshots for viewing of the numerous mods I have made to our 1977 Boler 1300.
Check out at: http://community.webshots.com/user/con111
If any one has any questions about some of the materials or techniques I used, please ask.

Wow, Con, I'm going to have to devote some study time to those pictures. It looks to me like you've really done some work.

I am especially interested in your door repair with the aluminum framing. At first, I though you had constructed a custom fitted screen door, then I realized that it was a very effective and professional repair.

Con, re: your picture of the 1977 Boler tail lights on your webshots album.

Those red lenses look identical to the round lenses on my '81 Burro. Can you tell me if in fact they are Reflect-o-lite 110-150 tail lights? (6 7/8" dia.) This is seen across the top of the lens as part of the molded shape. If that is the case, is there a Boler replacement supplier for this that you know of?

Nice collection, nice job!

those lights are almost impossible to come by, I found three last year and they went to forum members for a donation to the site. I would suggest looking up rv salvage yards and see if you have any luck.

or rv dealers that have been around forever

or maybe send a note to reflect-o-lite and see if they might have a case or two tucked away somewhere.

Con, that is great what you did with the door. What did you use to bond the aluminum frame to the fiberglass? I'm wondering if a screen door could be made like that for our trailers. You did a fantastic job.

Hi all,
The tail lights are 7"dia. Grote 60 diaode cartidges, Part no.53422 from Peterbuilt Pacific Inc.
at $86.52 ea. plus taxes. They are totally sealed and are guaranteed for 100,000 hours. They are so bright they almost blind the driver behind you at night.
Having had a number of horse and snowmobile trailers over the years and the lights never working when you go to use them these are the greatest invention since sliced bread.
I used a big piece of carboard and scribed the body outline onto it for a template. The frame its self is fabbed from one 20ft. length of 1"sq. alum tubing (1/8"wall) Just enough to do the whole thing! The tabs and plates are from scraps of 1/8"& 1/4" I had. I bought a 12 ton bottle jack tubing bender from Princess Auto and carfully bent the tubing to match my template.
When I had it to shape and all the pieces cut I had a shop weld it up.
Then I bought a tube of Silkaflex-291 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive/Sealant & Bedding Compound from a marine supply. This product is used by alum. boat manufacturers to glue alum. boats together rather then welding them. I tried several construction type adhesives but they were usless compared to this product. I only used about half a tube to glue the 2 skins to the frame. Man does that stuff bond!
Alum. square tubing- $50
Tube bender- $269(I took it back)
Adhesive- $12
Welding frame- $50
Fiberglass, Bondo and paint- $20

Hope this helps

Joe, I have no idea what you are talking about!

Some time ago I saw a thread on this forum for a folding screen door one guy built for his Burro or Boler. It was the best of any I had seen and I was going to build one but haven't got around to it. I still have some pics of it if any one is interested.

Good job Con! I enjoy watching new generations discover the joy of these little glass trailers. I have had one on and off for over 30 years. Thanks for sharing so many pictures. That is what helps others. Take a bow.

When my wife and I lived in North Vancouver back in 1980 we looked at the new Bolers at the dealers in Richmond. We were always interested in them. As it turned out I think that was the last year they were produced. I don't think the where made in 81. If memory serves me right I think the price at that time was $5500
This summer while we were in Armstong we priced out same of the Bigfoot 15 & 17ft. trailers as my wife would like a bathroom. We had stickers shock. The base prices was just over $25,000, end up about $30,00 by the time you get a few extras and the taxes. You can guess what our discision was!
So we keep this little egg. With all the mods and so on we have about $6000 into it.
I am trying to keep it as close to original as possable.

I have added the pics of the screen door design to my Webshots collection. Suz or Donna may remember who put those up on the forum abour a year ago. This is the neatest arrangement of a screen door for a small space I have seen.
I will periodically post more picutures on some of the smaller detailing I did on the Boler.

Con,

I see by your album pictures the front window over the propane tank is a single pane window. Assuming that's a new addition and if so could you tell me please how you like it? I mean do you miss having a window that opens at all?

Where can I get one? If it was Sunbelt Industries in Summerland, B.C., I couldn't find them online. Could you tell me how to contact them?

Looking good!
Myron

That is the original Plexglas front window. That and the rear one have not been changed. I don't recall seeing any Bolers with a front opening window. I was going to order some tinted Plexy to match the other windows but my wife says I have spent enough on this project. So like a good husband I do as I am told,HeHe
I gave you a bum steer.
It was Sun-view Industries Ltd.
15915 Bentley Place
Box 1229
Summerland,B.C.
Ph: 250-494-1327
Fax: 4944-9221
Email: sunviewindustries@telus.net
http://www.rv-windows.com/phorm/x-widgets.html
The side windows are Item No. 2226SLT-22 3/4"x26 3/4"Slider tint RI L&R- approx. $147.50ea.
The stove window is Item No.1018STL-10"x18" Tint left- approx.$89.40
I can't find my invoice for the door window but I think it was 15"x18"
They come c/w screens but no polybutal tape or mounting screws.
They tape and screws are inexspensive. Sunview has made many for Bolers.

sorry Con, the note about the lights was for Myron, the wedding cake lights are almost impossible to come across

No problem Joe, BTW I was planning on selling the original tail lights and windows, I just haven't decided on for how much. Since I changed the light and windows and made a couple of trips I am totally convinced that was the way to go.

Thanks for the info. I wasn't trying to change the subject about the door. I've seen many of designs for a screen door on this site, but as I was looking at your photos I was just thinking. I may or may not try to do something like what you did. I have been collecting a lot of ideas and parts. With any luck I will have the trailer done by June, I have to because Ellie is upset about the way it looks.

Hi Steve, I guess your wife has determined what your priories are. HeHe. I don't know if I will build a screen door yet. When we have been down in the Okanagan in the summer months it may run 32 to 40C but is not bad at night when we have the door closed. The Boler has been quite comfortacle with all the windows open. I think if it was painted white would be even better. The screen door would be good if you are in a area where there are lots of mosquitos. I did notice a couple of evenings when I did leave the door open that we had a kinds of little flying creatures inside.
One thing I have to do yet is install some screens on the outside fridge & stove vents.
I which the guy who desiged that door would pop up again as I would like some more details on his screen door.

BTW Steve, My grandfather was born in a little town down river called Waterford in 1847. He and his brothers later were in the Iowa 7th Calavary in Nebraska. Have you been in the Waterford area?

Here's one of the best on the web, screen door for Trilliums. You'll get a good idea of what's needed and how to go about it for any egg.

Gord100's Wooden Screen Door

Hi Donna, Gord did a very nice job of his and good pics of his project. However I still think I would go for the bifold style as it would fold up against the closet wall when not in use.

But thanks anyway.

I added some more photos at Webshots.

Hi Ronny,

Check out my latest pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/con111
Posted some more last night.
If you are talking about stick welding alum. DON'T do it. I built 2 snowmobile decks for pickup trucks figuring that they would be strong enough. Not the case most of the welds had to be ground out and redone with a Mig wire feed. You just can not get enough proper penetration with stick. Wire feed is the only way to go, or Tig. I had a shop weld up my frame because I had turned in my rental Argon tank a few months before I did the door frame. Wasn't worth keeping it for the small amount of alum. welding I was doing.

Ronny W has sent you this email from http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.php.


I think i wrote nice door repair Al Instaid of giving the creddit to you. I went and fixed that.
I think your door repair is a thing of beauty.
That screen door is another fancy addition my trailer could use.

The welding rods im sugesting useing arent like welding with a stick here is an addy to check it out eBay Aluminum Welding Rods

Its sorta like useing brazing rod or soldering copper pipe. Stuff held great for me and ive fixed stripped threads with it too... (no im not a salesman)

Anyways Im needing to repair my door soon but there are an awefull lot of things i need to do to it first. I basicly bought a frame and shell the rest is needing replacing Including the axle.

I love this website and its the people making repairs like yours that realy drive me to do this one up rite. Thanks

Ron
P.S. What is the aluminum tank under yours... is that where your fresh water tank is now? or what? It doesnt look origonal but it is way cool...

Hi Ronny, I tried to hook up to that address you sent but no luck, so I can't make a constructive comment on those rods. I would strongly recommend sticking with something that you know has the strength and works like Tig or Mig.
Yes! That is our fresh water tank. I had a lot of pictures I took of it and the original before I installed it but I had a hard drive quit on my computer before I got a chance to do a backup lost a whole lot of stuff.
We were getting ready to make a trip and I was filling the tank when I noticed water pouring all over the ground. When I looked underneath the whole backside of the tank was wide open cracks. After 28 years even the exposure from the ultra viloet sunlight broke down the plastic. So I dropped the tank out and tried all over the Internet and various local suppliers to find one. The one company here spin molds poly tanks but wanted about $800 to make a mold. He was not interested in doing a one-off job. The tank measures 4"x16"x42" and holds 10 Imp gals. The existing tank was hung by 4 rusty old bolts to a rotten wood frame with the fiberglass cutout from the rear window as a platfom under it. My only alternative was to fab one out of 1/8"alum. with 1/4" thick disk bosses where the connections are. Having worked in a pulpmill for years I had lots of SS fitting kicking around. I fabbed up a new hanger platform
from 1 1/2" squre alum. tubing and hung it from new 1/2"SS stove bolts. I will take more pictures and post them. It has worked like a charm. I flushed the tank with water & about a teaspoon of bleach before using it. The new tank was approx. $400
So nothing to rust or needs painting.

Hope this gives you some direction

Added original brochures and some manuals to Webshots.

For specialty weather striping try this site.
http://www.tacomarine.com/

For Silkaflex bonding products try these sites.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/to;ID...ulking,Sikaflex
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products

For those of you who may be looking for hard to find items I am posting some more web sites. I have probably gone through about 100 sites to find the best items.
For more weather strip and seals try this site:
http://www.trimlok.com/

For those that are interested in tank level indicators and sensors:
- Acu-gage Tank Monitors- Snake River Electronics
http://www.snake-river.org/

- SeeLevel Gauges and tank monitors- Garnet Industries
http://www.rvgauge.com./rv.htm

- Instruments, digital gauges, alarms and monitors- CruzPro Ltd.
http://www.cruzpro.com/ (sort of an interesting site)

- Fluid Sensors & Controls- Gems Sensors
http://www.gemssensors.com/TOCProducts.asp?nContentsID=15

For battery monitoring electronics and products
http://www.power-store.com/products/bm/bm02.htm
http://store.solar-electric.com/metersmonitors.html
http://www.ferriellosales.com/wst_page5.html
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/97/p/docs/pt/5/product.asp

For a good review of the various makes of battery monitors a must read for anyone is aPDF file at:
http://www.micromediaplus.com/
Battery_Monitors_Practical.pdf

Enjoy

Con, that is one sexy water tank. Mine on my '79 was broken to bits and barely attached, so I measured it and into the trash it went. Like you I am unable to find a suitable replacement. I think I will have my son and his friend weld me up one. We've been talking about it but it's nice to see one that is actually in place and working!

Lizbeth and all, be sure to check out the Helpful-Links info...here's one for a Boler Water tank: Water Tanks, Fresh and Gray Water

Thanks Donna! That tank is a bit different that my original tank but it might work.

Well I 'll be darned ladies. Last year when I was looking for a replacement tank I had every local RV dealer searching thru their suppliers for a poly tanks that size. I talked to a plant here who makes poly tanks but wanted around $800 to make a mould to spin one and searched about 75 supppliers on the internet to no avail. And what do you come up, a supplier right next door in Edmonton! Damn!

At the time I didn't have a lot of options left to me as we were planning to go on a trip.
I would be interested in the price of the poly tank. The only difference I can see is that theirs is 3" shorter than my original tank (4"x16"x42") Just fits nicely between the frame with about a 2"to spare. I think it was 45"between. A 39" tank would be a little easier to hook up though.

If any of you are interested, I can post pics on how I modified the hangers and rack which was a huge improvement over the original.

After I posted I looked back in my bookmarked pages for water tanks and reviewed some sites. They've added more sizes. My original tank was roughly 4.75"x22"x36" and said 13 gallon. Someone might find these links useful.

This company comes pretty close and you can search by putting a size in the search area.
http://www.tank-depot.com/

This site has been updated too. I didin't look through all the tanks.
http://www.ronco-plastics.com/

Edmonton RV...I remember they had something close too.
http://edmontonrv.com/

Hmm! Very interesting. They must have increased the size of the tank between 1977 and 1979. I could have made my tank a little bit wider but because it is behind the axle I didn't want to change the weight distribution which could reduce the tounge weight.
Before we bought our Boler I had borrowed a neighbours 13' Trillium to go to a family reunion. I had to put about $150 worth of stuff into it to make it road worthy. It had a square 10 gal. tank under the side seat. Trying to work on that thing was a real pain. I didn't think that was a good place for it if it ever split when it was full. Personally I much prefer the tank underneath. I hope you are forwarding those sites to Donna to add to the helpful limks!!!
I just sent her a bunch.

Got em all uploaded to the
Helpful-Links page

Thanks Con for sending along Lizbeth's links too

Our Boler has these little 1"dia. plastic vents in all the cabinets. I don't recall seeing them in other Bolers I have looked at. Has anyone else got them? I think I found a couple of links for them which I forwarded to Donna.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

My Boler has those too. I have them all popped out at the moment to paint and some of them are pretty brittle.

Come on Con cough up the links.

Hi Lizbeth,
Here are the links I passed on to Donna to add to "Helpful Links"
So far these are the closest I have found. That is the problem I am finding with a lot of the 28 year old plastic parts, they are getting brittle. I am going to have to replace my water tank filler cap. I have replaced the lights, sink trap and water tank.

CABINET & ROOF VENTS
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27-113-s...er--616965.aspx
http://www.duraflo.com/siding/soffitseries.htm#
http://www.marksrv.com/vents.htm

Enjoy

For those that maybe interested in a Instant Hot Water Heater installion find attached the PDF files of the one I used.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

One mod on the Boler I have been toying with in my mind for awhile now is some sort of protection on the front end from rock chips. Ours has numerious chips in the GelCoat and our all alum. Featherlite horse trailer is the same way. Even with it been power coated which is a very tough finish it gets beat up.
Many people get 1/16"polished checker plate alum. panels mounted on the front of their horse trailers but that is not feasable on a Boler. All the travel trailers I have seen so far that have the ribbed black rubber mounted on them has not appealed to me as they never seem to fit the curves well without slicing them or the don't stay flat, they buckle in places beacuse the adhesive has let go. Beside white doen't show the dirt as bad.
What I have been considering is a white padded bra held on by dome snaps. Snap are not a problem in my view. After a trip the bra could be unsnapped, hose off any mud or dirt from the shell and bra, let it dry and remount it. Same idea as the bras on pickup trucks and vans.
People keep telling me "oh it will ruin your paint" Not true. We have leased 4 Chevy trucks in the last 12 years, all had bras and not one hurt the paint. I always blast the junk out from under them in the car wash.
So I am wondering if any one else has addressed this problem. I don't want to keep filling chips and repainting the front end.

That sounds like it would work, Con,

but.. and this is just my personal tastes..so don't take it to heart

Whats the point of protecting the paint if you are going to cover it up and hide it anyway?

My new paint job got beat pretty bad on the road recently. I have touch up paint. When it gets bad enough, I will get out the touch up paint and bits of bondo if really needed.

I figure I would rather have same "Character" than covering up large painted surfaces.

I'm with Gina, paint chips are a sign you use your trailer . I'd only worry about it if it got bad enough to cause structural problems. Maybe you need to change out (or add) mud flaps on the tug?? How about the type of mud flap that goes all the way across the bottom of the bumper on the tug....it goes on when you tow, and off when you don't.

It's a "to each their own" kind of thing. But I have seen a picture of super thin diamond plate that was curved to fit the front end of an egg...lost those pictures to the hacker unfortunately, so it is doable.

Sorry girls, I am a neat freak. I just do not like chips in the Gelcoat finish. Some times I drive my wife up the wall. I guess she has learned to live with it after 45 years.
All the snowmobiles I sold were like show room condition. As one dealer said "you could eat a meal off the engine."
I can't help myself!!!

Con, have you considered a color tinted spray on truck bed liner such as a Linex? ...Benny

No I hadn't Benny, but I will certainly do some research into it.
Thanks for the tip.

Benny, Here is what I have found so far under Linex and Rhino Coat. Both are available in colors. The specs look good for both products. I will do some more research.

http://www.rhinoliningsaz.com/Rhino_Lining...plications.html
http://www.innernet.net/rhinoscpa/page3.html
http://www.rhinolinings.com/RL/main/protec...colorpicker.jsp
http://www.line-x.ca/linex/loc1.htm

I tried that spray on bed liner stuff from Canadian Tire.You better know what your doing.All I had was a big mess and had to scrape it off.I would go to a pro to have it put on.

Good point Chester. I would have do that in any event for that product as you need the right equipmnet and it is quit toxic.

Our Escape had, as an option, 2 foam-backed vinyl pads that snap onto the front lower corners w/ 6 snaps each. Protects while you drive and then unsnaps and goes to storage very easily.

How about some pictures Andy?

Hi Con,
I've come to know a handfull of hot rodders up your way but THATS another subject. The snap tab idea works REAL well but I do not use it. I have had the same texture stuff on the front of our Trillium that is on most rocker panels of newer cars/trucks and painted the whole trailer "In Your Face White"!!
Many rodders down here use the snap tab idea usually with a KQQL color matched "hot tub cover" fabric. Easy to remove when not needed. You might try some industrial strength "velcro" instead of the tabs