Let's face it, unless you take a lot of full length dresses camping (and I don't , really,... no really,), you don't really need a full length cabinet. That is of course unless you have an under 4 foot 6 inch partner or child who likes to sleep standing up.(or can be forced to)

so I guess if you drill four corner holes(after marking the location of your new shelf feet, and prying the feet out of the shelf)

then you lower the shelving unit back down onto the now firmly bolted feet

then you mount the hanging pockets on the door, and you're done!!!, about two hours later.
Since you worked up a sweat, you don't really notice it's -10 Celsius, although the heater has it nice and toasty inside anyway.

Joe,

GREAT MOD! We've been wanting to do something similar in our Scamp. Can you give the details on the drawers that you used (dimensions, where you got them, cost...).

Thanks,
-Isaac

the drawers are a shelving rack from coscto, they were 29.99
the Drawer is 11-1/4 inches wide buy about 14 inches deep, I'll measure it tonight and give you the exact sizes. they fit to within the 1/8 inch in my doorway, but I like the way it turned out.

Very nice!!!

The addition of the shelves looks neat! Unfortunately the front cabinet in the scamp follows the rounded contures of the front of the trailer and it makes putting shelving in the front cabinet a bit more challenging (at least if you don't want to loose a bunch of space.

This is what I did for the upper part of the cabinet:

Corner cabinet shelf
Shelf materials: 1/2" plywood with two coats of spar polyurethane, four PVC pipe caps, four sections of 1 inch X 10 inch PVC pipe, four 1/4 inch bolts, four washers and four nylock nuts.

I made a template of the upper right corner cabinet floor using heavy paper. Transfered the pattern to cardboard and cut it out. Using a compass, I reduced the rear radius by two inches to adjust for the curvature of the Scamp hull 11" above the cabinet floor. Determined the shelf front radius by measuring 13" in from the rear radius of the shelf and modified it on the right side to fit the clearance from the Scamp hull to the cabinet opening. Cut the cardboard to the measurements and did a trial fit at 11" high. It was necessary to remove a couple inch section at the left rear of the shelf in order to get it through the cabinet door without bending. I cut the plywood to the pattern, predrilled and countersunk all bolt holes for the pipe caps, sanded the shelf and sealed with two coats of poly. The pipe caps can be bolted to the underside of the shelf before moving it thru the cabinet opening. The 10" legs must be added after. The shelf is quite sturdy and won't shift in position due to it's shape. Materials cost a total of $4.69 (assuming you have some scrap plywood around).

the overall size of the drawer unit is 13 inches wide, 16 inches deep and 35-1/2 inches tall, with the casters removed.

Nice shelves you guys! We want to do a curved front shelf for our Scamp also. Yours looks like a real lightweight & sturdy design.

I shelved the closet with 1/4 plywood with the front edges covered by plastic binders from the stationery store. Shelves are supported by skinny pine strips 1 1/2x1/2 with holes for plastic supports. The four pine pieces in the corners are stuck to the closet walls by Velcro strips. The corner strips rest on the floor so the weight of all the clothes is not pulling on the Velcro.
Light weight, easy to remove and simple.

My closet, turned into a storage cabinet, looks a lot like Shirley is describing. I measured the width and depth of the closet then went looking for plastic storage tubs that were the right size. The shelf height was then based on fitting in as many tubs as possible. We really like the tall tubs that allow for storage of pots, pans, etc. I left about 4" of hanger space on one side for a few colths on hangers. Works for us. Tom Trostel

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?...0373&p=70959864