Some of the older Casitas have a DC fridge circuit run with 12 ga wire and sharing the fridge with the entry light and porch light. Better to have the fridge on its own circuit and upgrade to 10 ga wire to minimize voltage drop and resistance.

This is how it was done on a 2000 Casita 16 LD:

Starting at the fridge, remove the two wires on the left side of the terminal block. Remember, where black and white were connected,


feed the new wires thru from under the bench and attach.

run the wires along the existing wire bundle, using tywraps to secure, to the back of the trailer and across to the converter side

Bring the wires in thru the back of the converter (I folded back about a foot of wire and tywrapped it just in case the slack was needed sometime in the future). Cut to fit. The white (ground) wire goes on the large terminal in the lower right of the photo. Black wire goes on a terminal below the empty fuse terminals. Plug in a 15amp fuse (for the small fridge), turn the fridge on DC and if the chimney gets hot, it'll work. Don't leave it on DC very long without a charger hooked up to the battery.

This photo is after my wiring was installed. Notice the second fuse from the left, a fat black wire, that's my fridge circuit. The fat white wire is hiding behind the others on the ground terminal.

>>Some of the older Casitas have a DC fridge circuit run with 12 ga wire

PCDon, you are being kind. My ''older'' Casita (a 1999) has the DC fridge circuit run with 14 gauge wire.

The book (installation instructions in the operating manual from Dometic) says to use 8 gauge if more than 10 ft. of wire is needed; 10 gauge is okay for less than 10 ft. (This is for the larger fridge, which may explain the difference in your specifications.)

Of course, my Casita got new wiring for Valentines' Day, but I haven't installed it yet.

So, I really appreciate you posting your pictures!

:ola

:wave Great pcdon, pictures and explanation, make it look easier that the fd. like mary f says, we ran #8 wires to the larger fridge. after running #6 from the truck battery to the tt battery. and a new converter (pd9145)

Don,

I want better access to that area to install an accumulator on
the pressure side of the plumbing. On a scale of 1 (it's so easy the bench practically fell off) to 10 (I used every swear word I ever learned), how complicated is it to remove/replace the bench?

I'd say removing the bench is about a 3... if you have that no.2 square screwdriver, that is.

:cblob

Steve:

Marys got it......A #2 square screwdriver bit is a must, they are easy to find in the little hex drive bit assortment packages (Ryobi, and others) at Home Depot, perhaps Wal-mart.

If you have a cordless drill or elect. screwdriver it makes an easier '3'. You might even smile. ;)

There are about 8 screws, and the bench lifts out. :)

It's the ONLY way to get to the water pump.

Would like to see your accumulator installation when it's done.

Thanks Mary and PCDon. Every now and then I pop something apart and a million parts scatter all over the floor. Or it needs 8 sets of hands to reassemble!

Pictures will follow on a new thread. For the moment I'm debating Flair-it, vs Qest-PEX plastic vs Qest-PEX crimped fittings. Sometimes the planning is more fun than the doing. Plus, there are several opportunities to buy a new tool!! Oh man, I'm in hog heaven!

Thanks PineCone Don!