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FiberglassRV > All About Our Unique Little Molded Fiberglass Trailers > Modifications, Alterations and Neat Updates
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Just curious.

Being basically lazy, I'm thinking about installing a power tongue jack on my trailer.

Has anybody done this? I'd be interested in your experiences.

Figure I could tap into the 12 volt supply to the break-away switch.

That way, Pam could just press a button rather than doing all that work jacking the trailer up and down while I watch the levels.
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Hmmm, ever on the alert for an application, it seems like the power jack should be equipped with a remote control. Why tax Pam's index finger when a remote control, operated from the bubble level, could do it all.

Besides, it's another remote control. Kind of a guy thing.
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>>remote control
:) :) :)

But Pam's not certified to use a remote control. That is my domain.

If she needs to change the channel, she can get up and change it (call it exercise!)

But getting back on topic, I'm also thinking that instead of messing with hooking the 12 volt up, I could install a topedo plug on the power jack and just run it off one of my Jump-It batteries.

Thing I don't know is if the power jack would fit as a direct replacement for the current crank jack on our lightweight trailers ... or if you'd have to grind out the hole a little.
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I am in the process of installing a power jack, converted from another application, and found the following things out:

the triangular base plate is generally drilled to a standard bolt pattern so they should fit, this came from the atwood site:
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Choose from Four Jacks
Atwood Power Jacks lift, not merely support, the following weights:
Lightweight ................. 1,500 lbs.
Standard .................... 2,500 lbs.
Deluxe ....................... 2,500 lbs.
Heavy Duty ................ 3,500 lbs.

Four Jacks for Easy Setup
The Lightweight Power Jack is specially designed for smaller trailers with a 2" coupler.

The Standard Power Jack eliminates the need for hand cranking to position a trailer. It fits most 2 5 /16" couplers and has a lifting capacity of 2,500 lbs
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I'm not sure if the battery for your breakaway would handle the current from the motor, I haven't done a test on mine yet, but I suspect it to be around 15 amps
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Thanks Joe! Keep us posted on your progress. Any pix? Do you think you are going to have to drill out the old jack hole in the couple to make the power jack fit?
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No the hole in my coupler is ok, but I'm waiting for the mounting plate now, I just haven't had time to weld it on the jack yet.

Originally the jack was a horizontal mount for a slider, but physically its the same jack.
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Hi Joe , just as a matter of interest...I have a Reese jack here that i never used and when I got my little Boler , I thought to use it but from the mounting plate to the end of the jack that is pointing down is 9 inches and the top of my tongue is 15 in. from the ground which would give me a 6 in. ground clearance. Not very much. To use mine i would have to reweld the mount further down the jack or mount it on a swivel because I would want to put a wheel on it. So be aware of the ground clearance when you weld the mount onto your jack. We used to use these jacks as linear actuators to move our satellite dishes. This one was a spare and never used......Benny
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where are you getting the wheel from, Benny? I'd like one, and how would I know if it fits what I have?
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QUOTE
Orginally posted by Thomas and Janifer

where are you getting the wheel from, Benny? I'd like one, and how would I know if it fits what I have?
Hi Jana, up here a store called Princess Auto. I would check in your area for a surplus store that sells surplus stuff and also new. Another way is check your yellow pages for a caster/ wheel supplier and if it`s like here if you work for a company that they deal with , you can get it wholesale for cash and then weld it onto your jack....Oh, sorry, weld a plate onto the bottom of your jack that you can then bolt your swivel caster to. Also I would get one that`s about 8 in. dia and pneumatic or semi pneumatic. It`ll roll easier and won`t skid if it runs over a pebble like a shopping cart does when it hits a cherry pit on the floor in the grocery section....ha...ha Benny
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Hi, Also you have to have enough room under your jack fo this . If you don`t then you`ll have to relocate your jack higher. Helps if you or hubby welds or have a friend that can do that for you as a favor...Benny
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now that you've mentioned that word, pneumatic or semi pneumatic, is that the one with air you can add or is it solid? Sorry to be so tire ignorant.
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No sure I would permanantly attach a wheel to my tongue jack.

No a whole lot of clearance there, particularly when going up and down a dip.

Also, when camping, occasionally, depending on the angle of the dangle, you'd have to chock the newly-added wheel or your rig would slide back and forth

Any RV shop stocks, sells or can order tongue jack wheels (various dimensions) that slide on and off your tongue jack, as needed.
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Charles,

I installed an H&H tongue jack from $CW on Lazy M (get it?).

It was a direct replacement for the Casita crank up.

I wired it to a switch under the AC and to the battery line.

The switch is to keep kids (of all ages) from playing with the jack. Wire the break-away through the same switch.
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Hi Jana, I believe that the semi-pneumatic are hollow inside with just air as they are made at the factory like they had on kids waggon wheels and the pneumatic are like a car tire or a wheel barrow which you can add or reduce the air pressure in if need be.............Yes Charles that can happen on a slope. If I mounted my jack on my trailer I would have to move the jack mounting flange right to the end of the jack and also modify the tongue bracket up so that the wheel would tuck up inside the tongue. The problem with is that it would stick up pretty high. That`s why I mentioned to have a swivel mount on the jack so that it swings up 90 degs....One of my sons has a manual jack with a wheel on his boat trailer and thinks that it was a Godsend for his back to jockey the trailer around his driveway.......Benny
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Instead of a wheel on the front, I chose a dolly, 'cause I can use it on all my trailers. Follow this link to another discussion if you're interested ::
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/read.php...TID=1559&page=3
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QUOTE
Orginally posted by Joe MacDonald

Instead of a wheel on the front, I chose a dolly, 'cause I can use it on all my trailers. Follow this link to another discussion if you're interested :: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/read.php?TID=1559&page=3

For what it's worth, I use both. Harbor Freight is the most reasonable place I have found for the trailer dollies. They are listed on the website as $59. Although that is about half price from the others I have seen, we got ours on sale for $36.

Trailer Dolly

For my application, I wouldn't have one without the pneumatic tires.

As far as the tongue wheel, I like it also. However, I use it for different applications. I take both the stand and the tongue wheel with me when I travel.
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This place (Princess Auto) has what is described as a 500 pound swing-back
jack with a pneumatic wheel in their flyer.
They carry numerous jacks and casters in their catalogue.

http://www.princessauto.com
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Hi Rock
Welcome to this forum.Post lots and have fun.:wave
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Thanks Chester.
Nice country around Fernie - home was just down the road at Kimberley.
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No pics yet, but the jack installed like a dream.
I used a template from the trailer coupler to get the bolt pattern, and then measured twice to get the right drop for the head unit, so I had full travel. Works real slick.
Definitely do-able for the handyman. All I needed for tools were a 9/16 socket and ratchet, a wire stripper and a pair of crimpers.
the mounting holes on a new unit are standard bolt patterns, you just need to check on the drop, and make sure you have clearance and travel to suit your trailer.

Will post pictures as soon as I get them.
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somebody slap me!! I forgot to put up my pix.
The following are the pics I took of my new tongue jack.
I mounted the switch on the frame, below the jack, and ran the power wires back to the new dc fuse panel I put in by the battery.



the base plate was made to fit the jack, I wanted it bigger than normal, to cover the old marks on the tongue





you can see the flat section that hooked into the frame on the slide it was originally on, it is sitting on my homemade base, a piece from a 400 watt light fixture scrapped from work



a slightly blurry shot of my switch and box, again parts reclaimed from the scrap pile at work
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