I have been studying the ways others have modified their trailers to add air conditioning. I came up with the following design to put a balanced unit in my Fiber Stream's window. I wanted it to be simple, easily installed, and easily removed. I decided against doing a permanent install through the wall, for I could not bring myself to cut another hole in the hull and then add structures to brace it.

Here is the air conditioner, in it's box, sitting on the floor in the front of the trailer.
Click to view attachment
I have slid open both the window and the screen, in preparation for installing it for use.

Here is an outside view of the open window.
Click to view attachment
I've had to open the rock guard also.

Click to view attachment
These are the "extra" pieces I have made that will allow for an easy installation:

I bought a 4' piece of 1" x 1" angle aluminum ($9), and cut from it two 17 1/2" lengths, notched at the top, and drilled for screws for side mounting on the air conditioner.

I also bought a piece of Poplar wood ($1.50), 3/4" thick, 2 1/2" wide, and had the store cut it to 17 3/4" in length. When I got it home, I jigsaw cut the radius end curves.
I got these first two items at Home depot.

At work I found a scrap of 3/4" thick foam, 2 1/2" wide, and 8"long (free). I cut it into two 4" long pieces and then cut opposite radius curves out of the pieces.

Then I went to Ridout Plastics, here in San Diego, and dug through their "scraps" bin . I found a leftover piece of 1/2" thick Plexiglas (3 pounds @ $2 per pound), and had them trim it ($12 cutting fee) to 17 1/4" x 6 1/4".

Click to view attachment
This is the GoldStar 5000 BTU Air Conditioner I bought at Home Depot for $89. I have installed the metal frame piece to the top that came with it. I saved the foam strips that came with it for sealing around the window you put it in.

Along the bottom of the cabinet are 2 "L" bracket clips. They fit perfectly into the window frame bottom channel!
Click to view attachment
I cut a piece of afore-mentioned foam strip and lay it in the "L" brackets to seal the bottom of the unit in the window frame.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
Now I set the Air Conditioner upright and attach a previously prepared 1" x 1" aluminum angle bracket to the left side with screws included in the A/C's packaging. The angle bracket has thin foam tape applied to seal it to the unit's cabinet (Also included in the A/C's packaging).

Click to view attachment
Here I've attached the bracket to the right side, and installed the Plexiglass into the "window" pocket I have created above the A/C unit. Attaching the side angle brackets is the only need I have for a screwdriver in the whole installation.

Click to view attachment
Next I place the prepared piece of Poplar wood into the side of the window frame channel.

Then I pick up the assembled Air Conditioner, and while tipping the top toward me, engage the bottom "L" bracket clips into the window's bottom channel, tucking the foam strip in the channel too. The unit just fits between the opened glass & screen panels on the left, and the Poplar spacer board on the right.


Click to view attachment
While I have the whole A/C unit tipped toward me, I rotate the Plexiglass panel's top outward to engage the window's upper channel. Then I gently push the unit into the window, straightening the plexiglass, and wedging the whole affair against the foam tape strips.

Here is the inside view of the Air Conditioner, Holding itself sturdily in the window frame.
Click to view attachment
I can now plug it in to the outlet below the Streetside Bunk.

Super idea!

When will you start on mine?

Click to view attachment
Now I run outside and install (remember the free foam?) plugs into the remaining gaps in the corners of the opened window glass from the outside.

Click to view attachment
Back inside, I re-hang the curtain and set up the table. (Supervised by Boo-Boo Bear and my Vibrating Frog ( FOOT massager!)

Mine too!

I really think I'm going to try the window method. I can always hack a hole in the trailer later.

Everybody get in line behind Robert! He says, "Enuf trailer projects! When am I going to get started on the House list?

Wow Frederick,

You've given me something to consider. I've never been at a location with sufficient amperage for me to try and operate my AC. If it proves to be a dud, I doubt I'll replace it in the conventional way. This looks like a feasible alternative.

One little bit of operational warning... I did not consider a circumstance of operation when I 1st went to remove the air conditioner after using it.

Removal is done in reverse order of installation. I have to tip the air conditioner INTO the trailer to disengage it from the window channel. After operation, the bottom of the unit has collected water that it has dehumidified from the air, and tipping the unit INTO the trailer will pour this water in your lap.

I now use a towel to hold the air conditioner as I tip it INTO the trailer, and soak up the 6 ounces of water that drains out, before I lift it out of the window chanel.

How much does the window unit weigh, Frederick? I have a similarly sized Haier unit. It weighs 40 pounds which I'm wondering about. It seems a bit heavy for the window to me. Problem is, I haven't found a unit that is lighter

Excellent pictorial tutorial

I did something like that last fall, well almost, I got started then it snowed, and the next thing it's now, but axles and frame are on the top of the list now.

FRED...............................................

I guess that no more than 40 pounds might be about right. It weighs about the same as the Microwave oven, and that I actually weighed; it is 29 pounds. I'll have to weigh it when I go to work tomorrow.

Fred,

Now you know why I put a drain hole (with a plug) in mine. Although my A/C is a permanent mount, draining all the water does keep it from splashing in during travel.

If I recall, you have a drain on yours, it's just not on the bottom. Try cranking your trailer down in the front before you remove it. The remaining water should empty out.

Has anyone tried to simply put a 5000 BTU LG or similar unit on a collapsible stand outside, behind the trailer and just duct in the cold air thru about a 6" flex duct into a round hole under the dinette area? ....possibly leaving a vent window open a bit so air circulates....thus a smaller hole with a cover could work....I would think that some of these new units, being priced under a $100 and possibly being fairly light would be worth a try.....the only nuissance would adjusting the temp..... ...Benny

See CD Smith's and Tom Trostel's posts in this link: Front (or rear) window AC?, it will lead to pics and further discussion.

Thanks, Donna. That helped me too.

Bonnie

Update:

This summer (July 2009) we will be traveling across the mid-west after attending the Oregon Gathering. After spending time with Robert's brother and sister-in-law in Portland, we will go from there to Denver, and then across Kansas to St. Louis, MO.

Much of this leg of the trip will be to make time; we leave Portland Monday morning, July 20 and hope to arrive in St. Louis by Friday afternoon, July 25. If we average 450 miles per day, we will make it on schedule. But the thought of the time and effort involved in removing the AC each morning and re-installing it each evening just so we can get a comfortable night's sleep tires me out even now. I want to be able to leave the Air Conditioner in the window and leave the Bed configured as a bed.

After some study of my design, I just drilled one hole in the top of each piece of angle-aluminum and a corresponding hole in the inside lip of the window frame. Then I tapped (Threaded) the holes for the screws I used to fasten the angle mounts to the window frame. A couple of strips of Duct tape to seal window gaps temporarily finish the job.

The rock guard does not close completely over the Air Conditioner, so I have removed it and saved the parts. The Air Conditioner sits too low on the window frame to fit within the bulge of the unique Fiber Stream rock guard. I tested it this past weekend on my trip home from Palm Springs to San Diego, and it rides in the window just fine. I may have to consider rain while driving during the July trip and possibly caulk the edges around the unit, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

For now, I just wanted to allow the unit to stay in the window while traveling but still keep the easily removable aspect of the design.

Fred

I think you know this already but you will want that AC unit when you are here!
The end of July in STL does not make for comfortable sleeping without the AC(understatement!).
I also have a portable you are welcome to use should some odd fate befall you on the journey.
And of course you are welcome to use my facilities if they can help at all.

Do you know what site you are in yet?
I am going to the park this week and I thought I would do Recon for you?

Ed

We have reservations in Babler State Park Campground for site #11.

I understand that there is electric service at the site, but no "city water" connection; so while I can run the Air Conditioner, TV/VCR, and Microwave, I must fill the fresh water tank and use my water pump.

The website states:
Site Type = Electric
Includes parking pad, grill, table, lantern post, and electric supply
Maximum Amps = 50
Site has 20, 30, and 50 amp service

The Air Conditioner worked well for us this past weekend at Palm Springs. While I don't think we'll need it in Oregon, I know we'll need it pretty much continuously after leaving Denver. I'm studying my installation to see if I can raise it to be more centered vertically. If I can achieve that, then I believe the unique Fiber Stream rock guard will close over it while it is mounted in the window.

Here's a link to photos of the window install I did (posted here some time ago).

http://www.hustonfamily.com/gallery2/main....2_itemId=168650

The basic idea is one board attached to the AC unit via angle iron... cut to fit into the outside window channel (although my design of window, which seems somewhat rare on the Scamp is probably more conducive to this working well)... a second board fitting inside the inside window channel... and both boards attached together via carriage bolts... it fits very snug and I've logged many miles with it installed... although if need be I can quickly pull it out, loosening no tool knobs.

I personally think window installation is the only way to go... I haven't seen a closet installation which cools nearly as well.

What is up with the 4:20 label on the black TV looking stand in your first pic? Should I dare to ask?

I just checked the fit, and it won't

The meaning of 4:20
Click to view attachment

That is just an "inside" joke of mine: Television has the same effect.

I have moved the Air Conditioner to the Forward Driver's Side Window.
Click to view attachment

Since this is a Semi-permanent installation, I had to add a thin vertical strip of Plexiglas to the gap between the A/C unit and the window frame's center divider. This is where I had applied Duct Tape when leaving the A/C in the front window for the ride home from Palm Springs. (Note: I have not removed any part of the original window.) I have caulked all joints with a clear Lexan material. I added Reflective Tape to the outside corners of the A/C unit, White forward & Red aft.
Click to view attachment

I can still remove the A/C and close the window and there will be no evidence it was ever there.
The new location makes accessing the controls easier, and I put the Bulging Plexiglas rock guard back on the front window.
Click to view attachment

I am sure glad I designed it that way. It has been raining for most of this week in San Diego, and I somehow did not get the air conditioner fully sealed in the window. A tiny trickle ran down the wall under the air conditioner and after Monday's monsoon, soaked the cushion under it.

It was a pain to remove the caulk, but once I did the air conditioner popped right out. With the window closed, there is no more leaking.

I'll only need it in the summer, anyway.