Hi, We rescued a 1974 trillium a few weeks ago and started a restoration project. Here are before pics:
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and after pics of the exterior, using the Vertglass Gel Coat Restoration kit, new wheel covers, re-built front awning and new side moulding:
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Wow, check it out!

Question, how much effort did you REALLY have to put in using the Vertglass to get that shine

It's supposed to be a 3 step process; de-oxidize, wash, coat. It was more like 15 steps ...

De-oxidize, wash, unhappy with appearance so de-oxidize again, wash again, coat, coat, coat, coat, it's not working , coat, coat, still not working , coat, coat, coat, YEAH!

I think it was worth it, and it really surprised my neighbour (a seasoned RVer who was very skeptical when we dragged home the rat)

Looks good!

Before I had heard of VertGlas, I used a 3M Marine rubbing compound / wax product with a Simoniz buffer (both from Canadian Tire), with pretty good results - it's not high gloss but not bad, definitely got rid of the oxidation with some effort.

(my avatar pic is "before", actually before I even bought it. I should update that!)

I am curious about your re-build of the front awning / rock guard - mine is very "dirty" looking but it appears to be right into the fibers of the material, not washable.

I was considering painting it, wondering how others have dealt with it?

Thanks,

Dave

If I had to do a gravel shield all over again, I would go with tinted plexiglass.
It makes such a difference when you can see right through the trailer when you are towing it. It helps when you are backing up too !!
Just my tuppence (Brit for 2 pennies)

My front awning was the original 3-section fiberglass kind, with a large rock hole in the bottom left corner. All the screws were rusted tight into the aluminum frame.

BEFORE:
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I sprayed all the screws with WD-40, took the frame apart (including the two centre posts), measured the overall size of the frame.

I bought a piece of white ribbed plastic awning material from Home Depot, and cut it (with scissors) to fit the overall size of the frame. I put it back on the window, but it warped slightly without the support of the two centre posts, so I attached the two original posts BACKWARDS to the frame. They are now closer to the window when closed, but still do not touch. Finally I added a strip of double-faced tape between the two centre posts and the new plastic, to reduce road rattle and wear against the posts.

AFTER:
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As a follow up, if this does not hold up to time, I will cut the plastic awning into three pieces (like the original) and switch the frames around.

That's a very good point about the see-thru ability. But a solid no-see-thru has it's points too.

Blocks lots of sunlight (and possibly heat) when in the awning position during the day, or even in the down position.

When closed at night...no one can see in! No need for a room darkening shades/blinds for that early morning sun. Heck, don't even need curtains of any type!

Solid makes the trailer a bit more site secure, if no one can see in while the trailer is all by itself.

That's a very good point about the see-thru ability. But a solid no-see-thru has it's points too.

Blocks lots of sunlight (and possibly heat) when in the awning position during the day, or even in the down position.

When closed at night...no one can see in! No need for a room darkening shades/blinds for that early morning sun. Heck, don't even need curtains of any type!

Solid makes the trailer a bit more site secure, if no one can see in while the trailer is all by itself.

My 2 cents
Years ago on the Bolerama forum there was much discusion re "restoring the shine"
One of the repeated suggestions was a product called "Penetrol" which is actually a paint exetnder that one buys at any good paint store. It was supposed to clean and remove the oxidation with not too much work and $10 cost (great appeal)
We tried it on our 79 Trillium...but only on the top half. Years later, the top is still noticably more glossy than the bottom.
It's always embarrassing to admit , but we now have a second smaller Trill as well as the original 15 footer and it BADLY needs it's shine restored.
Yesterday I used a product called "Pink Solution" to take off all the gunk outside and some mold inside and will then try again with the Penetrol.
Will post the results with photos sometime in future.
Donna R

Here are the results from the product called "Pink Solution" that I used to clean the trailer
this afternoon. No smell, enviro friendly, not harsh and very little elbow grease needed.
I was very impressed with the ease of use and results
DonnaClick to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Donna,
The "Pink Solution" sure appears to clean well, some of the shine is coming backjust with that product. I'm not sure where I sam "Penetrol" for sale, but at the time I felt the shine wouldn't probably last very long. I appreciate your positive feed back.
Thanks,
Kurt & Ann K.

I used Pink Solution to clean the black crud off of our aluminum canoe which has been sitting in our yard for a couple of years. It's certainly no miracle cure for dirt, but with a plastic scrub brush it was effective. I think that the key was really the pressure washer which I used afterwards...

I've also used it as a laundry pre-treatment.

For those not familar with it, Pink Solution is a gelled (and pink) cleaner which comes in a plastic tub. If you want to use it as a spray cleaner, it is diluted with hot water. That's really annoying when it gels again, later. For the canoe I just slathered it on directly, and I would do the same on my Boler - where I haven't tried it yet.

This stuff is certainly not the solution to all cleaning problems, and doesn't even work as their website claims, but it was pretty good on the canoe.