I don't know if I would do it again. I almost feel ashamed of my self when I look at the pics of the remodels in progress on this site. Complete stripping of the interior is to much for me. I guess I have become lazy in my retirement. I would rather be fishing or camping.
I just finished installing a new propane piping system today. I used black iron pipe and installed 4 gas outlets for a gas instant water heater, the stove, new refrigerator and a catalytic heater like Gina has.
I have spent one whole day just cleaning the inside wall covering and I am not half done.
Tomorrow I am going to run wiring for lights in the overhead cabinets in the front and rear. I will run the wires in the seams of the elephant hide wall covering and then cover them with the seam tape.
I have noticed one thing with the wall covering. It comes out on the floor about 2 inches in my trailer. The only mold I had was on the floor near the wall where the water did not have a chance to dry out as the backing acted as a sponge. I have cut all of the excess covering back to allow any water to evaporate.
Once I finish the inside I have to go back and finish removing the residue from the large decals compliments of the Navy.
After the the outside is finished all that is left is a complete rerivet, new axel and a paint job.
I do not think I will do it again as this is going to be my last camper. Of course that's what I told myself when I traded for the Burro.

John

John I don't know if I would have used the rigid black iron pipes in a camper. Being a plumber by trade, I would think that the flexing of these pipes (or lack of it) may cause leaks and stress on anchor points.
Just my thoughts
Gerry

Nice job on the cleaning, John - looks like a white wave sweeping (okay, in slow motion...) around the trailer.

Gerry, I understand the concern about rigid piping in a flexing environment. My Boler was done by the factory in iron pipe under the floor, with each branch making a transition at floor level to soft copper tubing; similarly, it looks like John's iron ends just above the floor, with each outlet changing to tubing there. This seems like a reasonable compromise to me, with the under-floor components resistant to damage by road debris, and the soft sections providing some isolation. I would want to use rubber-grommeted mounts, to allow the pipe to accommodate trailer frame and body flex without excessive stress.

Hi Brian and Gerry,

There is only about an 18" section actually fastened to the floor underneath the trailer. It is fastened with 3 pipe hangers bolted through the floor. The floor in that area is about an inch thick and glassed on both sides so it is very solid and rigid. The straight peace to the propane tank is mounted next to the frame and hangs in 2 eye bolts. I used expanding foam where the pipe nipples penetrated the floor. My Burro was plumbed in the same fashion.
My large box of parts just arrived from Scamp so now I can move on to other areas of repair now. Hopefully I will have it, at least usable, by the weekend and can enjoy it before the snow hit the high country.

Thanks for your suggestions and concern,
John

Yea, Looks like your got a good start on the demo and re-build. Great Job!
I am just starting a winter project of fixing an 1977 Amerigo, slide in camper and today plan to try just to cut out some (not all) Sections of interior wood paneling wall and ceiling where there was water damage.
Maybe it would be easier to just do it all...we'll see.
I guess the whole floor would move as a unit but again the only concern was where there would be any 90 degree turn through any seperate pieces of camper eg walls & floor because they do move independently of each other.
That expandable foam is Great Stuff but alittle rigid I thing for this application and I would have used rubberized Pipe insulation.
Inspect for leaks every season (as we all should do) no matter what kind of pipe we use.
Gerry

Before I got smart and got rid of my 8 MPG Ford F-250 4x4 I had a big self contained camper. The roof leaked one winter and I ended up replacing most of the ceiling and one wall. I replaced the insulation with the rigid styrofoam board with aluminium foil on one side. It is was about $12.00 for a 4x8 sheet at Home Depot. It comes in 1/4, 1/2 and 1 inch thickness. It seemed to work a lot better than the fiberglass stuff. I just cut it to fit between the roof braces, glued it in place with a little silicone and then paneled over it.
All of the gas appliances I was going to have were going to be in the area of the cabinet and were going to be hooked up with the flex piping like you use on your water heater or gas stove. Now I only have to hook up the refer as I got a deal of a lifetime on a 1990 Scamp with a furnace, refer and A/C. All I have to add is a instant gas water heater and a water pump. It is in mint condition. No work! I can go camping.
Good luck on your winter project,
John

Hey John. I did a complete rebuild of my 1976 Surfside and it was worth the work. I used a lot of ideas from this site. I didn't use a propane fride I used instead a small bar fridge and bought a generator. I wanted to fun lights around the camp anyway. Your starting the right way buy gutting it. Best of luck. Jerry from Kitimat BC

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John, when I saw your pictures, I thought that I was looking at my Love Bug pictures from when I bought it. I took most of the winter to rebuild the Bug and I am very happy with the results. I have alot of pride in the way it turned out and get compliments from everyone that saw it in progress, you will too.