I like that! Nice job

While we have enough storage in our trailer there always a need for places to put small items without cluttering up the countertop and table. So, this dual-purpose mod should help us.

Dual-purpose, because the inner shell of the Burro consists of two halves bonded together in the middle. Well, for whatever reason the two often don't fit together in a symmetrical manner, and one thing I noticed is that the structural "ribs" appear to have been put into the molds without any reference to the horizon. Obviously a bit of camuflage would be good.

On the streetside, the rib points sharply up, on the curbside (shown in the pictures) it points down a bit. So, since they are structurally very sound I thought they could serve as the foundation for a couple of shelves. Significant shimming was necessary, especially on the street side. Result shown in the picture. The offending support structure is covered, for now, with some fabric.

cjlindsay I'm curious what you used for your countertops? Love your idea of the wainscoting.

Very interesting look with the wood, cjliindsay! It's beautiful.

Per, how fun and what a great way to add some shelf space. Your woodwork is superb!

Peter, when I had a 2005 Scamp Deluxe 19' 5vr , like you I tried multiple things to reduce 'trailer rock'. Spent quite a bit of time trying to determine just what was allowing it to occur. I extended the OEM rear stabilizers to reach the ground, so they were solid. Always chocked in front and behind the wheels and of course the front landing jacks had quite a bit of weight on them so they seemed solid. Still the rocking was evident from the axle forward, becoming more noticeable the further forward you were.

One thing that made a significant difference was to stabilize the hitch. Noting that on a conventional 5^th wheel trailer you can purchase a two or three leg king pin stabilizer, I created one for my Scamp 5vr. That stabilizer made a significant improvement in reducing the rocking motion – perhaps by 70 percent. Eventually I determined that the remaining rocking was the result of landing gear flex. While they were stout and could support a large weight load, they allowed movement, both side-to-side movement and front-to-rear.

While at home, I placed a couple of floor jacks to stabilize the front part of the frame and they, in addition to the home made stabilizer and rear stabilizers, made the 5vr feel as if it had been given a solid concrete foundation. Amazing what 7 jack/stabilizers will accomplish! Never duplicated that setup on the road, as when using the home made stabilizer the remaining level of rocking was acceptable.

Maybe this will give you additional insight toward a full solution to your 'rocking' experience.

View the extended OEM rear stabilizers at:
http://tinyurl.com/2szx2h

View that homemade stabilizer at:
http://tinyurl.com/3yqowd

P.S. Did you have a problem with your axle breaking loose from it's mount?
Don

That loft stabilizer is a thing of beauty.

Thanks for the links & pictures. I'll have to consider whether I want to buy the BAL aluminite tripod or build a solution like yours.

As for my axle, I do have the problem axle, but last I looked I did not see any obvious damage to the axle mount. Nevertheless, I do think I'll take it in to a welder and have them add a length of steel pipe to support the mount before I run into problems.

--Peter

I purchased one of those alumilite gooseneck tripods from campingworld.. Makes it really nice when parked.

Click to view attachment

That's exactly what I was thinking about! You say it works well????

--Peter

Yes it works great! Personally i just dont like any support underneath the front part of the trailer even tho I know its ok...... but I could really tell the difference!!

Some progress finally! Perhaps not really a modification rather a start at the restoration!

I got the idea to try the Marine Epoxy instead of the fiberglass from FGRV here and it worked rather well I think.

Before and after. One coat of primer on the bottom so far.

Hi Bonnie. Sorry for the slow reply. I used a 20"x72"x3/4" pine project board from Home Depot, cut and ripped to size. then fastened from below.

Thanxs! Cory

Hey Charlene. Thank you, thank you! Sorry 'bout the slow reply.Yup, one thing lacking in a Boler...Storage/Shelf space. Decided not to re-install the stove for that reason. Will use a portable propane stove. Gives me the flexibility to cook indoors or out without the weight of two stoves.
Thanx! Cory

Hi Karalyn.


Thanx! Cory

...my OH MY!!!!
That is absolutely stunning!!!

Hey-hey there Doug.


Thanx!

If my memory serves me right I received some criticism from a fellow fiberglasser some time back. He didn't like my "frontal area" and my "profile" apparently wasn't much better.

On reflection I chose to interpret this as referring to my trailer, not my body, so that was something I would be able to tweak a bit.

Therefore the I replaced the old vent and cover with a MaxxFan (model 5500). Several advantages, one of which is a more streamlined contour. Considering the slim margin between the tow limit on the Ody and the actual towed weight it might help a smidgen, particularly at over 60mph. The old cover was a bit of unnecessary drag. Boat anchor, actually.

I'm in the process of installing the new front and rear plexi windows with the gasket and lockstrip right now. So far I've removed the old rear window and the gasket was so brittle it broke instead of peeled away. Cleaned up the shell around the window which was a mess under the old gasket. Stretched and reglued the "hide" on the interior around the window, painted it all the way out to the opening and installed the new gasket. Now I'm ready for the fun part, installing the window in the new gasket and then the lockstrip. I'll take photos from here and keep you posted.

I'd love to know how difficult this turns out to be. I've read horror stories. I'd like to replace both my front and rear windows with sliders. By the way, this is my first post. I just dragged home a 76 13' Scamp yesterday. Its pretty cherry but I'm not one to leave things "as is". I'm looking to re-upholster, tile, re-taping the insulating liner, repaint exterior, flip the axle, Make new cabinet doors and run LED though-out. Anyway....good luck with the windows!

Thanks Jonathan and welcome. Congrats on your new to you Scamp.
Done a complete gut and redo on ours over the last year and now I'm focusing on outside issues.
Did most of the mods you are looking at, so happy to help if you have any questions over the course of your project.
Will post the window progress as I move forward.

I took the front window out of a 79 Scamp that I had last summer and like you I was dreading putting it back.
I used the old gasket and lock strip and it was not difficult at all, just messy. I used copius amounts of Armour all to lube the lock strip and it went right in with the aid of a screw driver.
I was surprised as I heard the same horror storys.
Hope this helps,
John

Thanks John. It helps for encouraging me to go out there this weekend and give it a try.
I did buy a lockstrip tool so hopefully that will make it easier. I hear the tough part is getting the plexi into the gasket. I did one a long time ago on a kit car and I don't remember it being too bad though.

I replaced the converter and cleaned up the wiring in the area near the converter. See http://scamp.n0kfb.org/ for details.

-- Dan Meyer

Some time ago I made an Emergency Flasher Box. Mine has 3 switches:

1. Flashes the Brake Lights
2. Lights the Running Lights
3. Lights the Back-up Lights

It also has a capped 12 Volt outlet.

Recently I had difficulty digging it out of a storage cubby. I got to pondering a better place to keep it, while standing back and staring at the trailer... and thought, "I wish it were always handy and didn't need to be searched for." I looked at the length of the pigtail that normally plugs into the back of the tow vehicle...



I could build it into the propane tank cover. My tank cover sits away from the front of the trailer. Normally, I just coil up the pigtail around the tongue jack. Now I can feed the pigtail under the tanks and plug it into the back of the cover.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I can reach the 3 switches from the top, and the 12 volt outlet is protected.
Click to view attachment

The guts of the thing takes up very little space in the area between the 2 tanks.
Click to view attachment

I am not so sure that having switches, no matter how well insulated, and even located near the top of the enclosure, inside an area where a propane leak could be held captive is a wise idea.

1 spark.
Goodbye.

Well thats one way to detect if you have a gas leak

Here's my latest Mod. I built and installed a small shelf in the back streetside corner between the side and rear windows. I attached it to the window frame and also brought a brace up from the bed cabinet to the underside of the shelf to stabilize it to stop any tilt. I attached a small shelf underneath for the DVD/Satellite boxes. Now that my new TV has arrived I'm thinking about making the shelf about 1 1/2 inches deeper. This will allow me more depth side to side so the lower shelf can accommodate both components. Initially I thought I'd just swap them out. Also if I put a small clete on the front edge and velco on the bottoms of the components, I can leave them in place. The TV will reside on the bed when traveling.

that's really nice looking. how do you plan to enlarge it?

Looks good, can you post a picture of the attachments to the window frame and the brace? The curtains are in the way....

I was just thinking about bringing it out of the wall a little further which makes the shelf deeper and also allows me to make the shelf underneath wider. The components will sit side by side.

With the current shelf I'm limited on width underneath because of the curature in the corner. As you gain depth on top you also gain depth near the windows.

I think I'll play with the existing setup for awhile and then decide if I really want to enlarge it or not.

Now that the TV has it's new space in the trailer I'll show you my other Mod.

I used to have a folding table over the couch under which the TV was stored or on top when in use.

I replaced the folding table by building a permanent table which fills in the entire corner. You will notice a cut out area on the right. That's because my solar panel is stored against the front wall of the trailer between it and the couch cushion, hidden by pillows. I worried that without the cutout I wouldn't be able to get the solar panel in place. As it turns out I didn't need the cut out, oh well.

I now have a stable place to use the Microwave and a place underneath to store it. Here's a couple of pictures.

Joy, thats really a good job..

I have no woodworking skills at all. I want to do the end shelf mod on my rig and make the dogs a "Room" under it. Thats where they sleep anyway, right at the end of the bed. I have plenty of room for me this way too. (I am short LOL!)

Donna,

The brackets to the window frames are just little "L" brackets. The brace is a piece of 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum. I simply measured to length and bent a foot on the bottom and top. Screwed it into the cabinet and the bottom of the shelf. The brace keeps the shelf level. There really won't be any weight to speak of while traveling. The TV will be on the bed just below and maybe the components, too.

No picture as I ran it up behind the carpeting. Just so happens that's where the joints of the carpeting are and the strip that covers the joint. I've already glued it all back together. Sorry

Gina,
I almost made a shelf all the way from the back to the sink cabinet. I know a couple that have done so simply to have extra counter space. They have it high enough for their feet to go under which is about the bottom of the window. If they chose to put the dinette up they just lift the shelf out. He just used 3 pieces of wood, glued and screwed together in a "U" shape and set in place. 2 as uprights and 1 as a shelf. 3/4inch plywood should do it.

I sleep up front and the back is open seating area. A little extra counter space would be great over there. I don't have a drip coffee maker in the trailer, but it would be nice to have one for when I have hook ups. That would be a good place for it.

The space now has dog blankets and other unsavory looking stuff, it would be nice to hide it.

love the shelf extension! i have been thinking of doing exactly the same thing all winter.....how did you attach it??
i, too, considered the "U" shaped shelf ---portable--idea....and it's my second option. however, having a foldable one is
my first choice.

+++++++++++++++++++

I spent about 2 hours today, installing a 12 volt marine plug under the cupboard that is above the dinette. Bigfoot installs a false bottom to allow wire to pass through. I had to remove the factory installed am/fm dvd player, as well as the compartment wall beside this unit. I had to then fabricate a plywood backing plate, as the wood material on the bottom side of the cupboard was about 1/8". I removed the 12 volt lamp assembly as well, as I tapped into the wires that fed the light. When I re-installed the lamp, I had to use toothpicks on two of the holes due to the thin wood being stripped once I removed the screws.

I now have a 12 volt circuit beside the 110 volt circuit that Bigfoot installed and readily accessible for my satellite radio, satellite tv receiver or any other use. It was a bit of an extra job, as the trailer is across the property from my house and it was necessary to make several trips for tools, fabricating the plywood backing plate etc. I had to be mindful that RV wiring is backwards to automotive and marine - rv has black for hot, while the automotive and marine business has black for ground. I made that mistake only once, and had to replace a light fixture because of it

Rick

Well, I decided to make a deeper shelf so the little shelf underneath would sit out from the wall further. When I completed the larger shelf I had the original left over where to store it, another item in the garage.

Why not attach the larger shelf to the original smaller shelf.

The larger shelf sits out from the wall further and both the DVD player and Satellite box can sit on it, with the TV on the original shelf above. I used the same brackets on the sides to affix to the windows, their straight brackets with a slight bend. Because the whole combination is heavier, I used 2 braces on the bottom down to the cabinet. I used a thicker aluminum 1"x 1/4".

Click to view attachment
The new tiered shelf
Click to view attachment
In the back are 4 brackets, aluminum screwed into the back of the lower shelf and the underneath of the upper shelf.
In the front is one bracket centered, affixed to the underneath of upper shelf and top of the lower shelf.
Click to view attachment
I couldn't get a good picture of this but it's the straight bracket from the underside of the top shelf to the window frame.
Click to view attachment
This shows the braces from the underside of the lower shelf to the cabinet. The black box is an A/B box for the option of cable or satellite.

The final product. With all the cords hidden in the back and under the mattress/bedding.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

wow..Joy..thats really nice.....!! I would love to put a small shelf up in the bunk for my DVD player... your so talented...

A belated response, thanks Cam A. Sometimes a mod comes along that is just really fun to do and this was one of those.
http://tinyurl.com/3yqowd

The paint roller telescoping legs actually provide enough strength to take out the rocking in the trailer? I suprised. Sounds real flimbsy stength wise.

George,
The landing gear is supporting the majority of the front trailer weight. The mod is effective with about 15 to 25 lbs of weight. It was a large improvement.

Later I determined that the remaining movement was due to the landing gear. That can be corrected by bracing the landing gear or installing stabilizer jacks on the front of the frame.