I am considering adding an exterior marine access hatch on my 2006 Scamp 16. We always keep the rear bed made and the storage under the bed is not handy.
Thinking of cutting an exterior hole and installing a marine hatch. This would allow me to store hoses, cords, levelers and any thing that gets wet or dirty without dragging it through the trailer.

Anyone tried this? Any suggestions or warnings?

Thanks,
Roger

A number of people have done it. The secret is to find the flat spot on the shell! And, getting a hatch that isn't too big, nor too small. A dremel tool seems to work well for hacking the hole. I think the idea would be great, but one side of my trailer has the water heater/electrical converter and the other side has the freshwater tank. I wouldn't gain much by adding a hatch.

Post pictures as you go along!

I haven't tried the Demel tool approach but it seems like it would work just fine. On my boat when I need to cut an opening I use one of those carbide coated jigsaw blades. Like the Dremel approach there's no splintering of the fiberglass. Just another option...

After I removed my spare, I considered adding a "trunk" where the spare was. My concern was, as Donna said, finding a spot that was flat enough. A smallish door properly placed might work.

I did end up putting one on the curb side rear to access the water tank compartment. I moved the tank back a tad and installed a better control for drain. It also gave me just enough extra room to store a few things.

I ditto what Donna said about the Dremel. Cuts like a warm knife through butter.

Which dremel blade are you using?

Here it is.

I used it to cut out for my Propane detector. It really works great. I simply drew a line with a sharpie and had no problems following the line. No break outs, no splinters, just some dust that the vacuum picked up.

This fella added one, looks pretty nice to me.... If you click the arrows there's a couple of photo's.

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/scampers/...amp;m=s&o=0

Can't view it w/out a yahoo membership

I actually used a cutting disk that came with in the dremel kit.

This trillium 5500 owner added one and it looks like he did a great job:

The Pearl - Trillium 5500

I added a small hatch (the largest that I could get for the limited flat space) to the rear of the curb side wheel. It is a marine round hatch and has been very handy. If I can get this right, I'll include a couple of pictures.

Bob

Looks like I could only get one pic per posting. Here is a pic of the hatch open.

Bob

Use the outer ring and mark it from the INSIDE of the trailer to make sure you have room and aren't going to cut into a frame or seat member.

Or plumbing or electrical or gas lines ....

Been there, done that. My tips:

Cruise the RV and boat parts sites to see what hatches are available, may be visit a view local stores. Many have calalogues, and will order just about anything for you.

Look at the trailer and carefully decide exactly where the hatch goes, what shape, and what size. Remember you should plan on installing a wooden back-up inside the trailer for support, especially with the larger, rectangular hatches.

Do not cut anything until you have the hatch in hand, have put it up to the trailer, and you are sure it is what you want.

Measue the hatch carefully to determine the correct hole size.

Decide on a hole starting point (corner of a rectangular hatch, bottom of a round hatch, allowing for the flange), and drill a small hole through the shell tp the outside from inside the trailer. This will ensure no mistake on hatch alignment.

With this starting point, marke the rest of the hole pattern (circle/rectangle) on the outside of the trailer.

Cut the hole, staying inside the lines you made. It is easy to enlarge the hole if needed, really tough to make it smaller. I used a metal blade in my jigsaw.

Install the wood back-up within the trailer. I also fiberglassed the lower lip of my wood backup piece.

Install the door using the soft butyl caulking compund used in trailers. Be generouse here, and tighten the attachment screws evenly across the entire frame. The butyl caulk will squeeze out over several days. Take a popsicle stick, and sharpen one end to a 45 degree blade. SLightly dull it on fine sandpaper, and then use it to "cut" the caulk away from the trailer and frame. Incredibly easy to do!

Final FYI. Go to your locksmith and buy a new lock cylinder for the door. For some misbegotten reason, the RV industry only uses two key patterns for these small locks, A and B. Not sure, take you key to a dealer's lot and see how many compartments you can open!

See my photos:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/55112...ABqdPX?start=24

Vic

I put the hinge on the bottom side so that is stays open when I'm at it. Otherwise I'd need a prop stick or something.

I think that sounds like a good idea... top opening, but on the other hand.. how easy would it be to spring the door if you were to drag something across it... like a water hose? Curious...

I added a door on each side. I purchased them at an RV salvage yard for twenty bucks each. I cut the holes with a jig saw and using butyl tape riveted them into place. They have been working very well for several years.