I would like to know if it is possible to switch to 14" rims and tires on my compact Jr.
I currently have 13" 4 hole white spokers but would like to change over to
14" 4 lug.(If I can find them)

Jeff remember, it's more than the size of the wheel, the tire width and height also needs to be taken into account. In fact maybe more so. For instance, on the Scamp.. there's actually a "fender" cover the tire/wheel needs to fit up inside. Too wide a tire and even though height may be okay... So, just bear that in mind when looking to changeover.

Thanks....There is plenty of room and I would be staying with same tire width.I think this rig would trail better with 14's as it is a little heavier
with the modifications that were done.Even with several hitch inserts,the trailer isn't quite level and tends to wander over bumps or in
wind.I don't drive much over 55 with trailer in tow,even with my V-8 Tundra. Maybe a changeover to a torsion axle from the stock leaf springs
might be a good addition?

Hi Jeff -
I'm new to our Compact Jr., but we're currently going through ALL the systems to prep it for a big road trip. We just replaced the tires and purchased a spare wheel (and tire). I stuck with the 13" because I notice that, loaded, the trailer tends to run pretty close to the tire. I also noticed that at one time someone allowed the wheel to run in the well long enough to melt a bit of the well (and probably do some damage to the tire).

The axle change sounds good...

Jen

Thanks...every bit of info helps.

When I bought my Compact Jr. 4 years ago it had old passenger car tires on it and it wandered a bit on the way home from the purhcase point. I replaced the tires with Goodyear Marathon 175/80R 13 (C load rating) on the stock rims. No problems with more than 10,000 miles of towing.

Tom Trostel

My Compact also has what look like fairly original rims, 13", with passenger car tires on them. I'll be watching to see what you figure out for your rig, and to see how it works for you, as I've thought of switching out to a 14" rim, or maybe converting to trailer tires. Even if I stayed with 13" rims I'd like to trade out to something else as I'm not so crazy about the existing rims as far as looks, plus my spare is a different rim and doesn't match.
So keep us posted on here with what you do, and how it turns out! Joe

Thanks Tom.I have regular trailer tires the size that is called for with new white spokers.I have the front as level as possible with the
bumper of my Tundra.The spare is same tire and rim. I have tried different tire pressures as low as 26 lbs.(recommended by the
original owner) I bought it from.It had some alterations with new pretty heavy duty plywood cabinetry and built in AC,Micro and nice refer.
They have given the trailer a little more weight in the back, I presume. Normally one might want a little more weight closer to the tongue
for a better pull? The leaf springs are original and might need re-curve or extra load leveler spring added as I find that wind ,semis
and rough roads make the camper more jittery than I like.For one this small I wouldn't thing an equalizer hitch would be necesssary?
I don't drive mucch more than 55-60 when pulling so as to avoid panic stops with a brakeless camper. I thought that going to a 14"
trailer tire might help/There seems to be room in the wheel well.It is possible that a torsion axle might be a better solution?My old 10 foot
Scotty had individual wheel suspension(torsion) and it pulled much better and was onlt 850 pounds.
If I increase the tire pressure to 29-30 psi, it make it more jumpy on rough roads,RR tracks or when semis try to suck you off the road.
What is your guess about tires.
Jeff

Years ago we pulled a Compact Jr with a Peugeot 404 SW. It had stock 13 inch wheels and the nylon bias ply tires that were standard at the time, circa 1975. Sway was not a problem.

I suspect the short wheel base of your CJ is a significant factor.

Presently I tow either a 16ft Scamp or a 26ft Avion with an 83 diesel K5 Jimmy (Blazer). With a standard hitch it was OK with the Scamp, but terrible with the Avion.

I went for the expense of a Pull Rite hitch and it squared everything away, sway wise.

I would save your money for respringing. If you need to get more wheel well clearance, you can quite easily install blocks under the springs using longer spring shackles. Or you can make longer spring hangers. Either way will work. With torsion bars, it is more difficult.

Try to shift weight toward the front and that may help your sway problem considerably.

Thanks.......When I bought this unit the owner had to bags of sand up front.I took them out after towing the camper home.It was a little squirely
even with the 100 lbs. of sand.I pull with a short box Tundra.I also changed to a lower ball. That helped some.The pull isn't too bad on smooth
interstates but bumps or irregular surfaces seem to make the trailer move a little side to side.Wet towing could be dangerous.
Do you think an eqilizer hitch might be a good remedy? There seem to be many on the market.

Jeff,
You did not mention the age or mileage on your Tundra. My only sway problems with the Compact after new tires was when I hooked it to a 1988 Jeep Cherokee. Any speed over 55 mph was white knuckle sway, but I knew that the trailer towed fine with other TVs. Turned out that the Jeep needed rear shocks. The old shocks weren't bad enough to notice a problem until I tried towing with them. Might be worth a check.

Tom Trostel

Thanks.It is 04 Tundra/short box /40,000 easy miles/V-8/factory towing package......2 wheel drive/factory shocks.
I was considering new airshocks like I had on my last truck.I pulled my old scotty all over the country and never
noticed it was hooked on.The springs on the CJ are probably original and a bit weak.

You mentioned that you added weight behind the axle. Is it possible that you eliminated (or greatly reduced) the ten to fifteen percent weight requirement on the tongue?

As a reference point, my trailer tongue weight is 185 pounds.

Tom Trostel

The original owner had placed 2 50 lb.bags of sand ahead of the axle as far forward as possible.He also installed a tool box on the tongue
for tools,jacks and trailer gear.I think he did that to compensate for the heavier rear section which includes wood cabinets,electric refrig.,
microwave. When I pulled the trailer back to my state, the trailer was very sensative to rough/wavy roads and bumps even with the weight.
Former owner said 26 psi in the tires was his recommendation.The tires are 185/80D/13 trailer tires and rated for 1360 lbs.I could try a set
of air shocks.

Both sets of my trailer tires have much higher pressure (50 + 65 PSI). The recommended pressures for both our car and truck are higher than 26 PSI. I'm thinking you are underinflated, which is adding to any other problems.

What does the tire say on the sidewall for recommended inflation?

Thanks I will check.I carry 35-40 lbs in the pull vehicle with 17"tires.

I'm not familiar with any trailer tires that require less than 40 lbs. As Roy says, underinflation will certainly contribute to handling problems.
As far as the equalizer goes I think that's serious overkill for a trailer of that weight. What the equalizer does is essentially shift the center of gravity along the length of the trailer and with something as light as a Compact Jr, that's not going to have a great impact. What WILL help, however is a sway bar. It's a whole lot cheaper and easier to rig as well.

I'm a big fan of the torsion axle even though our twenty-eight year old one is getting kinda tired. You can order these things with different pitches so the trailer will actually ride higher (or lower). I think you'll also find the ride will improve over those old leaf springs without shocks that you have now.

Thanks. I will pump up the tires to 35-40 lbs. and see what happens.The original owner told me to leave them at 26.It worked for him.
I will run it up the road to see what happens.

Where can you get a sway bar for trailers?

First...are they TRAILER tires or simply small passenger car tires?
The recommended cold inflation pressure should be embossed on the sidewall. Please check that first before arbitrarily inflating them to 40 lbs. If they are indeed passenger car tires, OVERinflation will not help your circumstance at all.

As for the sway bar, there are several types and each has it's advantages and disadvantages. Do a search of the forum and look for a recent thread on sway bars. I think it was pretty active a few months ago. If and when you decide upon a sway bar, talk to a local hitch installing guy. They'll probably be able to access such a device for you.

These are Carlisle trailer only tires....ST 175/80/D/13 maximum of 50 psi

My tow vehicle is a v-8 Tundra and rated to pull much more than 1200 lbs. I still keep speed to 55 most of the the time from experience.
Passing and getting back to driving lane is when I notice some side-side.Going over RR tracks, I always slow it down but still get plenty
of wheel hop or the trailer gets a little squirrly . The Tundra tires stay at 35 psi.I have tried 40 with cj but it did not help.I have several
towing bars so as to keep trailer level. The guy I bought it from had 2 50 lb.sacks of sand stowed way up in front section as there are access hatches
in this rig that he put in.The extra weight did not seem to make a positive difference so I removed.There is a took chest where the
gas bottle would have been (on tongue) I load that with tools and jack stands for the tongue weight to compensate for the heavier rear
portion of the trailer now equipped side AC,microwave,wood cabinets and electric refer.The right side is probably a little heavier that the left
side of the trailer.

Pump those puppies up and do nothing else until after you give it a decent real-world tow test. (Gear weight, speed, etc.) After all, you've been running those tires at half pressure. 50 lbs. is COLD and should go up somewhat after traveling a bit at speed. Forget 35~40, dude... go for it. Fifty pounds and you'll be amazed at the difference. Then after you blow out those silly rubber stems your tires probably have now, get some metal ones and you'll get thirty~forty thousand outta those Carlisles if you haven't already stressed the sidewalls but running 26 pounds in 'em.

There are threads here that explain the procedure for properly measuring tongue weight at home. Search the site for that. 10~15% of trailer weight should make that Compact follow along like a baby duck after its mama.

I will try that tomorrow.I am getting ready to take her out on the roads for a few weeks despite the gas prices.May even head to the egg meet
in Nova Scotia.

He may have stressed the sidewalls, they are bias not radials



Note the "D" my Carlisle Radials read R13

I have not put that many miles on the tires and keep in garaged and the weight off the tires.We will see how they run.There is a Carlisle dealer nearby who will check them out.If stressed...new ones will be put on.

Great!

Considering there has been a lot of discussion with the bad tire stem recall; I and I'm sure many others would be interested in hearing a Carlisle dealers point of view on the problem.

I've bought two sets of premounted Carlisle tires on rims in the last 2 years, I'd like to know if there is any chance my tires might be affected by the recall. Would you mind asking them while you are at a Carlisle dealer and posting the response? I don't think I'll get accurate information from the floor staff at Princess Auto.

I will ask.The place I will go to is a small country distributor nearby.I will post an answer.....if I get one?