The changes I'd like to make are many, but we're starting small with the things I can do in the driveway of the homeowners association (BOO!) where I live. Having just returned from a long trip, I feel pretty fortunate to have been able to get everything unpacked, cleaned and put away (except for the desk-type stuff which remains to be cleared...on some rainy day). Thought I'd get going on the trailer, but we're headed out camping again tomorrow for half a week, so here's all I got done:
Drawers now work - no more crashing to the floor on a side hill at lunchtime!

Carpet - cut and installed today. We can pull it out to shake it anytime. Should have cut it to extend into the lowest cupboards, but just couldn't make up my mind so I went the easier route. Now that I see it, I think the cupboard deal would've been better (for sliding things in and out). Ah well...live and learn. I'll put some extra pieces in there tomorrow before we pack up for the trip.

Next up (after camping) - I have to decide whether to reskin the cabinet faces. One is peeling where the drawer strikes it upon opening. Wood fill and paint, or enter (another) whole new world of carpentry?

Decide on, find and install paneling or rat fur to cover my wonderfully shiny (and incredibly functional) Reflectix installed by previous owner (SO glad I didn't remove it)!

Paint interior (anyone want to help with colors...I'm not so good at that).

And get down and dirty - sand, repair as needed and repaint frame. Not going to do the body off like some amazing people around here. (Have neither tools, nor experience, nor good will of neighbors for such an extensive driveway project.)

Move propane tank forward (slight) to make room for spare tire installation (so tired of hauling it in and out of the trailer or tow rig!), perhaps the battery will go there, too. Have experience grinding, but counting on a welder friend to help me with the rebuild.

Paint exterior? Perhaps someday. Bigger fish to fry, plus the girls' art is on the back and I'm not ready to cover that yet. Sure, they could make a new creation, but they're still pretty proud of this one.

Suggestions, pointers always welcomed!

Jen in Sunny California (80s again today)

Great start. The link is broken. Enjoy your trips.

ARGH! Trying link again...here you go:
so try THIS one.

Jen in super sunny CA (91 today - WHEW!)

Hey, I was just looking over your album, and I think I can actually make useful comments (perhaps) on some of your dilemmas.

Photo 3, peeling of the facia board: On Sis' Compact Jr., I glued down any loose splinters and used plastic wood to putty in the divots. A coat of paint, and it looked pretty good. On the two lower cabinets on the kitchen side, where Sis was dragging heavy boxes across the bottom edge of the door opening, I made up some aluminum channel protectors which slip over the lower edge of the opening and are screwed into place--that ought to prevent any further splintering!

Photo 7, removable seat tops: On Sis' trailer, we cut off about three inches from the back edge of the seat tops and hinged them (instead of having them removable). That's a little easier on them than sliding them in and out and tilting them up on their back edge.

Photo 9, wood around the door frame: Sis' trailer has simple boards around the doorway, painted. I suspect that yours was added by someone, since it looks pretty nice.

Cabinet doors: We painted Sis' doors, and it made a world of difference. They're actually two-toned; the center is pale dull blue and the molding around the outer edges is dark green.

Scuffed paint on bench fronts: We covered Sis' bench fronts with contact paper, but I wonder if Formica would have been a more durable choice...


You can see Sis' trailer at my photobucket site:

http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z256/hi...iler%20project/

I've been using it for in-progress shots for Sis to look at (rather than emailing monstrous picture files) so there's a lot of garbage there, but there are some decent shots here and there.

I also posted a thread here during one of the periodic rework/repair/improvement sessions.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.php?showtopic=26414

Steve, I really like the Moose material you used on the cushions, where did you happen to find it ? Tim

Unfortunately, I can't help you ; the cushions were already done when Sis bought the trailer.

Hey, Steve, I've been meaning to ask, how did the icebox insulation work out? I'd sure like to do something to insulate my icebox, and I'd also like to insulate the drainpipe leading off it as water condenses there in humid weather.

Bobbie

My sister reported that ice seemed to last a lot longer on her last trip (with the added insulation). So I'm putting it in the "success" column.

Thanks anyway. Tim

Wow, Steve, thanks for the great pointers! THAT'S why I put our project here. Sure, maybe some of my ideas will encourage someone else along, but I can use all the pointers I can get!

I especially liked the kitchen cabinet channel protector usage! I have stainless ones on my Jeep entry way. Shoulda thought of the crossover application.

I like the back step idea. While the trailer isn't often too far off the ground, my girls could sure use the step. It looks like you've made Sis's so the step can swing upward if it hits anything going FORWARD, but what if you're backing? Or does it swing up and stay out of the way all the time on the road? How does it lock up?

What's the switch for by the outlet?

Oh! I like that paint idea - center matching cabinet fascia with highlight around edge of drawers.

This week a bit distracted making the girls' Halloween costumes. Should be able to get on the trailer project Nov. 1!

The back step will fold up during travel, and be retained by a snap hook/spring arrangement. It isn't permanently installed yet; right now I'm waiting for the World's Slowest Drying Paint.

The switch by the outlet turns on the 110V lights--one in the "bedroom" and one in the "kitchen" over the stove. There's another outlet under the driver-side bench near the front of the trailer; I put it in so Sis could run a toaster at the breakfast table. Oh, and another over under the microwave, of course.

Thanks to site users here, we came up with a pretty nice paint scheme for the interior of our Junior. And during a dump run my brain kicked in - I remembered a friend telling me paint was given away for free there. SURE ENOUGH! They take in "household hazardous waste" including paint. Then they distribute the paint freely (as long as it's lead-free).

I went through the available colors there and pulled out two I liked - a tan and a green that went with the original 1971 green stovetop. Using Steve's sister's idea of accent colors, I added some white to the tan to get a lighter shade - that covered the walls. Then I used the original darker tan/milk chocolate cover for the faces of the cabinets and drawers. Finally, I hand painted the beveled edge on each cabinet and drawer with the green. The paint is a bit pinky, but for free paint it's a pretty darned close second to the color I would've shelled for!

It's amazing what a chance a simple (or even not-so-simple) paint job can make!

Camped in it last week. Felt SO much more cozy than the old scuffed paint/worn floor look!

Next up - tongue work. (Getting down to serious business with the grinder and welder!)

Jen

After seeing this simple modification on someone else's popup FG, I "installed" elastic around the outside of our canvas "tent" last night. Works fairly well for keeping the canvas tucked in while folding down the top. One little section still wants to poke out the side, but that's better than the 6 areas that wanted to poke out before.

It seems the elastic wants to slide down the canvas 'til it's basically ineffective. What do those of you who use this method do to keep the elastic high enough to make a difference? Is there a way to suspend it so it won't slide down? And how do I get it tight enough to pull in that last portion without making it TOO tight on the canvas?

Jen,

I just added some information about a pop-top bungie-type variation in the thread where tops and bungies were being discussed. This one's in a channel sewn into the top. It's here:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=297669

Raya

AHA, Raya! Thanks!

I wonder if I stitch sleeves on the boot, however, if those stitches won't tend to leak in heavy rains. (I also wonder if the mere presence of the elastic immediately upon the canvas won't cause same.)

Our boot is a tight cotton weave, not canvas. Great for breathability, not as great as a rubberized surface for water protection - though we've had no leaks in fairly heavy rains (yet).

Jen

It's been awhile since I offered an update 'cause it's been winter, and even by California standards that's meant not a lot of camping. (Mostly because of lots of other obligations after having been on the road 10 weeks last fall - our maiden journey in CJ.)

I took up Raya's suggestion and used the elastic around the top. I didn't do the sleeve thing because my top is ancient and I think it would crumble if stitched. The elastic is working beautifully to keep the canvas tucked in when I let down the top. When I get the nerve up to remove the canvas and build a new tent, I'll include the sleeve, though.

Today, motivated by the upcoming San Antonio Lake Rally (our first!), I finally wrapped up the tongue project. NOW I have a place for the spare and the battery will be moved outside in short order. ("All" I have to do is rewire the trailer to work from the new battery location, and while I'm at it reroute the wires so they're out of the way, not on the floor! OH...and run a charging line from the tug to the trailer.)

THEN all the operating systems will be operational...oh wait...it looks like my driver's side leaf spring may be broken...or bent flat...

Next project!

More pictures of The Tongue Project:

And finally...the other side:

Very nice! I'll have to point Sis over to this thread so she can think about something like that for her Compact to get the battery out of the interior.

Great pics Jen! Thanks for sharing, it's nice to see how other Compactors have done things on their rigs.
My tongue is a little different, with a tool box attached right behind the jack, and then the propane tank behind that. My battery is inside, has the special compartment for it. I do not have a place for the spare tire though, so it currently just slides under the dinette table. SO your mod interests me very much. I've been thinking of some kind of spare tire mount on the side of the tongue, has anybody seen anything like that anywhere yet?

Joe

Is this what you had in mind ?

Bill K

http://www.etrailer.com/p-70036.htm
Click to view attachment

That looks like it would work pretty well, Bill. What do you think, Joe?

There are some photos of others' tongue efforts at this discussion. You'll find some that might work for you there, Joe.

I think that a previous owner may have cut my tongue shorter and layered up the remains to bring the hitch up higher. Does your stack like mine, Joe (Larry, or any other CJ/Compact owner)?

Jen,
I think all the Compact models had a tongue that was a straight extension of the frame. This resulted in a coupler that was very low and some owners have altered their trailer tongue to raise it and better match their TV hitch. Mine is certainly altered.

http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm41/to...sonphotos18.jpg

Tom Trostel

Tom--- yeah, I think a lot of the previous owners have take the easy way to overcome the "high tongue- low butt" signature of a CJ.... I took the harder way and installed a striaght axle (non-drop) in place of the factory one. Also, one the reasons was to gain ground clearance as it goes off-highway a lot. (hunting camps). Larry

Wow...that's a LOT better lookin' (sturdier) job than the restack the PO did on mine!

This group is SO inspiring! I can't help but thank Larry (of Larry n' Carrie ) with his project details and Mike (Sanders ) for organizing the San Antonio Lake rally that's spurred me into action.

The trailer's starboard list had become increasingly pronounced. I hadn't been able to find a crack or break in the frame, cross members or welds. THe tongue looked to be in good shape. So all I could figure MIGHT be the issue was the leaf springs.

Well, now that I've taken them apart, I'm pretty darned certain THESE were the ORIGINAL leaf springs, put in place in May of 1972 and never replaced or re-arched. Those rusty nuts were TOUGH! Fortunately, while handing tools to Dad over the years, I've learned the proper use of a breaker bar (aka cheater).

I took the thing apart in just over an hour yesterday. I put it back together tonight in under an hour (if you don't count the wire-brush scrubbing then priming and painting of all related welds and parts). And, with the exception of a quick call to Larry (sorry for waking you Carrie) to ask about just HOW tight to tighten those spring bolts, I did it under my own steam.

What a great feeling!

Now...with these nicely arching springs that provide just THAT MUCH more lift...how do I get it out of the garage?! (Can you say, "A-I-R D-O-W-N?")

Jen-- she was just snoozing in the recliner..... .. when I mentioned it to her this morning, she din't even remember. One thing I forgot to tell ya is, check the u-bolts after the first trip, and re snug them. Always glad to help a fellow member... Larry

Hey, that spare tire mount looks VERY promising! And that's the same website I got my hitch from for the CRV, so I feel good shopping with them. I'll have to do some measuring the next time I'm at the trailer and see if that's possible... Cause right now the spare hogs up a LOT of storage space under the bed! hehe

Keep up your great work Jen, and keep the pics coming too!

Joe

Wow, I am so impressed, Jen. I had mine done by someone else- I am afraid to do anything that leaves the trailer un-towable if I can't finish it.

Bobbie

Hi Jen,
I would like to build a table like yours. So it flips down to become the bed supports? My Compact II came without a table.

Fran

Yeah...this table works wonderfully. I don't know if it was stock, but it's well designed and feels more stable that our outside camping table.

Can't tell for sure, but it looks like your Compact II has a wraparound bench seat (that goes under the front window) rather than then separate benches (one left, one right, nothing under window). My table relies on the window wall for support. HOld on...let me snap some pix....

snip, snap, flash...

WHEW!

Here ya' go...

and some more details...

Very clever table support, especially the sliding-block-and-knob bit!

That IS clever, and so nice to see the photos with your comments right on them. I would hate to try to figure that out from just a written description with no photos!

Makes me wish I had a flat wall at the back, just so I could use it (even though I keep the bed made up all the time). It's just so cunning

Well, to be quite honest, we keep the bed set up about 85 percent of the time, too. (It comes down for laundry day, and when the bees, skeeters or thundershowers are too heavy. Heck, we'll STAY OUT for rain, but them bitin' bugs...FUHGEDABOUDIT!)

Like so many things in our lives, this trailer improvement project goes in bits and spurts. Since reconfiguring the tongue to make room for a spare tire, the gas tank AND the battery in APRIL I finally rewired the trailer last week! Moved the battery from its spot under the kitchen sink (yes, inside a precious cabinet and under the propane stove - have I ever told you about the lessons I learned about charging a battery while running a propane stove?).

Of course, I couldn't just move the battery and rewire the two lights that ran off it. OH no! That's not the way these things work, is it?!

We've pulled in to some camps darn late at night, and I decided I wanted a back porch light. i bought one last fall...it's been awaiting this battery system rework. So, I installed that. (BUGGER of a wire kept coming apart INSIDE the wall...after I pulled it...and hooked it up, and tested it. ARGH! Can you say soldering iron!?)

And the trailer's taillights/side lights were screwed up when I bought the thing. While I made it work with what was there, it was time to rework it so the wires were no longer on the floor where every blessed thing dragged in and out of the cupboards dragged across them! (another ARGH!) I was going to try to just reroute them, but the harness was too short, so I thought I'd just splice in some new wire and work from front to back. But the old wires were, well, old, so I figured I might as well do it right while I had everything apart.

The old harness had the four wires solidly plasticized side by side from the front of the trailer, down the passenger side to the back lights, then through a hole on the floor, under the trailer, through another floor up to the driver's side rear. The NEW harness involved all free wires which were easy to divide and send down the appropriate sides of the trailer. (Two old holes filled in the back, one new hole in the front to accommodate driver's side entry of wires.) The old wire set, however, had a ground that ran all the way to the back. The new set came with a short ground, which I suspect was because they expected the user to ground the frame. I did run it that way, and we'll see how it goes. (At the light end, the grounds already ran to the frame AND the old ground wire.)

I routed the wires up under the cabinetry, using a "hot" glue gun to hold them in place with dabs every foot or so along the wire. We'll see how those hold.

Your redo and modifications look great. Hope ours turn out as well as you have done. We need all new insulation for our. How do you like the reflextics that is in yours? Does it insulate well enough in hot summer weather so that A/C can keep it cool inside?. Do you have any idea what the previous owner used to secure it?
Thanks
John and Jaci

Thanks JohnAndJaci!
I don't like the APPEARANCE of the Reflextics inside at ALL. I should have decorated in a Martian theme if I was going to leave it out! But I KNOW it works to keep the heat out, and I believe it works to keep some heat in when needed. I think the kid used some really cheap (perhaps even inexpensive) spray-on adhesive to stick it to the walls. (There was evidence of spray adhesive on other unintended points throughout the interior when we got it.) Unfortunately, while it stays up under it's OWN weight, I can't do anything with it at this point. To cover it, I'm going to have to take it off and reglue it properly, then carry on. Or simply take it down and go with some other sort of insulation. I sure would like the insulation to have more of the "rat fur" feel and appearance than my current Area-51 sensation.

And...did you say A/C?! Funny. REEEEAL funny! I know some folks have installed A/C in theirs, but with four folks already trying to squeeze into this home away from home, we don't do A/C. (It's also because we live on my native Central Coast of California where we just don't THINK about A/C - summer temps average mid 70s; winter temps average mid-60s...it's a tough life, but someone has to live here).

I'm CERTAIN that with the Reflectix AND A/C we'd be wonderfully comfortable!

Jen

Thanks for your info on the reflectics. We have been looking at all the different options for insulation and was interested in it from its "formability" to the Boler shape. We would definitely cover it with a wall covering so as not to have the "area 51" appearance as you put it. That is part of the issue is to figure out how to cover it. In order to have a comfortable night sleep in the summer we must have A/C as daytime highs in Memphis are 90s to 105 and the nighttime "low" is frequently over 80, all with high humidity. Glad to know that you feel that it would meet the need to keep it cool inside with the combination of Reflectics and A/C. Now to figure out how to use it as hidden insulation.

So,there I was lying flat on my back under Jr., taping up the last of the wire from the rewire project, when I noticed it - a crack. The frame's forward crossmember under the body and behind the tongue had a completely broken vertical weld!

Check the other side.

Sure as shootin' - that one was broken, too! And on the eve of our drive to Big Sur.

GIven that this wasn't the frame's MAIN support, I opted to head north anyhow. Today, on our way home, I stopped in to my favorite welding shop in San Luis Obispo, Ca. (American Muffler and Trailer Hitch). What luck! It was 4, and the shop was empty. After a quick look, they had me back in, and in less than 15 minutes and only $30 lighter I was back on the road, feeling much safer about my little trailer.

While there, I finally caved and bought the Draw-tite J-pin with lock to help keep down some of the noise. While I have the trailer weight well distributed, it still bangs around when we get onto bumpy roads or head over driveways, or pull through bumpy campgrounds (especially annoying late at night when I'm trying to SNEAK in). Installed it tonight. I'll let you know what I think after we tow with it for a bit.

Leaving Monday for Utah/Nebraska/Colorado loop over the next three weeks. Anyone headed that way?

Hi Jen,

If you already told us this and I forgot, I'm sorry, but what are you holding your hitch bar in with now, if not a J-pin (or, is the usual thick pin with a 45º bend at one end and a hole in the other that receives the hair-pin not a J-pin?)?

Is what you have now something thinner that allows the draw bar to move around?

Yay for you in having a good, reasonably priced welder so handy

Thanks,

Raya

Never even SAW this response, Raya! Not sure why...but I'm here to update, and VOILA, here was your question.

I was using the typical heavy-duty 45-degree bend pin with the R-clip (hairpin cotter pin). I tried the shim mentioned elsewhere on these boards, but it didn't work out so well for me. (Fell out on the road, fell out on the driveway, fell out at camp...even after attempting to squeeze it in with a bit of extra umph from My Little Helper).

The J-pin lock is wonderful. It was well worth the bucks. The trailer rides silently now. I feel a lot better about it, too, now that it's not banging around back there.

Well, nothing like a visit from a fellow fiberglass trailer owner to get one motivated! A couple of weeks ago, DanaT dropped by my place with his Compact Jr. He lives half a county away and was researching some service options up our way.

It was GREAT to see the modifications he's made, hear his take on the trailer's design, changes, and care. He has some really neat changes already in place (check out his load lifter for the top), and offered some great safety tips. (I replaced my old hydraulic bottle jacks with a scissor jack and now have jack stands to hold it steady when parked rather than using the tippy old jacks.)

I'm adopting some of his mods, the first of which involves the drop-off at the edge of the floor. Our trailer floors are cut rectangular to drop in between the wheel wells. That's great, except that the area in front of and behind the wheel wells then leave fiberglass exposed to whatever's bouncing around in the storage areas. Further, those items have a tendency to fall or lean off the wooden floor deck onto the 3/4-inch-lower fiberglass. Today I picked up some plastic-lined foam insulation which I'm going to cut to fit in those spaces. I plan to tack it down with the handy-dandy hot glue gun; the contact won't be permanent, which will allow me to make changes if needed, but it will provide enough stick to keep it all together, particularly with all the campin' stuff loaded on top of it.

The voice of experience can also save a LOT Of time. It sure did for me! I asked something or other about the back door windows. He strolled up to mine and proceeded to remove the glass in a SNAP! I'd been putting off my back door project until I had a whole day JUST to figure out how to take the door apart and remove the glass! THANK HEAVENS, Dana got to me before I got out the screwdriver!

This past weekend, I removed and replaced those sliding windows in the back door INNUMERABLE times while I manufactured and installed some new locking/latch mechanisms. He had also shown me how to remove the interior windows - what a TIME saver!

Had a leak in one side window (driver's side), so decided to tackle that one, too. Had learned how to remove and reinstall the whole assembly while on the road last year. MUCH easier in home driveway. Visited the local window store who informed me the butyl tape, while convenient for disassembly, was old school and not really the thing to ensure a tight seal. Stick with silicone, they said. So, after removing the window, cleaning it up and cleaning up the trailer, I put it all back together with a healthy dose of clear silicone. (Note to self and anyone else reading this: next time, use PAINTABLE silicone - it's impossible to keep it off the surfaces which I hope eventually to paint!)

Still leaked!

Checked outside seal and it looked great! Opened window and I could see that water in the channel was tending toward the inside edge because of the trailer lean in our driveway (ever so slight). So it wasnt' full enough to go out the weep holes, but turns out that weeeeee solder that holds together the frame edges wasn't enough to keep the water out. I siliconed the heck out of that very end of the channel (interior) and the other end of same frame. PROBLEM SOLVED! (Now don't I feel silly for finding this AFTER removing and reinstalling the ENTIRE window frame?!)

So, the trailer back door window tabs that keep the thing from sliding open when we're going down the road (or provide privacy by keeping it closed when we need it closed) had almost all torn off. Three of four were missing. So it was certainly time to replace them. The problem was two-fold: the tabs were flimsy; there was only a hole on ONE side in the partially-opened position which put undue strain on that single tab

First is the last original tab - the view from inside the trailer:
Click to view attachment
And the flip side:
Click to view attachment

The new, much beefier tabs. I nibbled out that last one, then slid a newly sliced bit of aluminum tubing (gathered from the local window shop's scrap bin with their blessing) as far into the latch mechanism as possible - about an inch and a half. I also had to widen the holes inside the door frame to fit these new tabs. At the same time, I cut new holes at the midway point so BOTH tabs would be doing full duty whether the window's fully closed or partially open.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

For the record, I have no fancy tools...okay...maybe a couple. But I made due with Craftsman's version of the Dremel tool, and a jigsaw, a hand file, a screwdriver and a hammer.

Thanks, Dana, for the helpful hints!

Jen,

Thanks for getting back to me on the J-pin! And here I've been checking every day for a response.... I take it the locking pin is thicker? I guess your original one must have been worn down? (I'm they must all be the same thickness or the locking ones wouldn't fit in normal hitch holes - or am I missing something?)

Isn't it cool to have someone else with the same rig come by? I've had that experience with my car, and it's great to learn some new tricks

Now... can I please come out there and strangle that hardware store clerk who told you to use silicone? Butyl is *not* just "old-school" -- it works amazingly well. And if you did want to be more modern, there are things like polyurethane caulk. Never silicone! I pray that anyone reading this (and you for future windows) gets the message. I rarely post with an absolute about techniques, but.... no silicone! Here are my reasons:

1) It does not do a very good job of sealing; there will be something better for 99.99% of sealing operations (make that 100% on a fiberglass boat or camper).

2) When you have to remove it...

3) Even when it *is* finally gone (or so you think), and you are lying, spent, on the garage floor with every last curse sucked out of you... it's not gone Silicone leaves an insidious, powerful, invisible oil behind that will prevent any future paint, caulk, etc. from adhering properly. Just mention silicone around a car body/paint shop, and watch the pitchforks come out.

Okay, in case you can't tell, I'm not a fan of silicone Now that I got that out of my system, let me reiterate that I love reading about your projects, and .... how fun it would be to have another Boler owner come to visit so we could exchange tips and tricks. Neato!

Raya

Hi Jen, I'm glad I was able to help you out. I learned a lot from you as well.

You did a very nice job on the rear window latches. And I thoroughly approve of your idea of adding another hole in the frame so BOTH latches are used when the window is partially open!

The Compact Jr was designed from the get-go as a cheap trailer, so Hunter used inexpensive mass-produced items. The emphasis was on getting the most product for the least money. The windows are standard house windows, which are much cheaper than camper windows. The vertical slider in the rear door was designed to be used in bathrooms and storm doors -- there the latches were adequate (barely), but they certainly are not up to the pounding they get as the trailer dances down the road. So putting in the extra holes to engage BOTH latches really helps to compensate for the extra stress that our trailers subject them to.

The old pin and the new pin were both NEW. On the original 45-degree angle pin with the R clip, the hitch rocked a bit. With the curved J-pin sticking back into that secondary hole, then pressing (hard) against the hitch, SQUEEEEEEEZING it in there so it CAN'T rock, it's super sound. Plus, it locks. An extra safety precaution.

I'm afraid it's even worse than that, Raya! This was one of the OWNERS of a local window place (not hardware, but windows ONLY) that sells, installs and makes custom windows, and anything glass. (They made the custom shower door we needed to accommodate the county's requirements AND the size of our miniature "master" bathroom at home.)

In other applications (read: Jeep) I've found silicone to be wonderfully water resistant. But, as you say, it's a ...er...ahem....(self-editing)...PAIN to get off! And painting?! I'm probably totally screwed on that end at this point.

Well, I do believe that "structural" silicone is used for some large glazing projects (such as on industrial buildings), so perhaps that's why the fellow recommended it to you. However (as you could probably tell ), I'm not a fan when it comes to using it around boats and fiberglass campers, as a caulking product. Maybe the store guy would like to come remove it, and then get rid of the fish-eyes in any future paint


On the hitch pin: I guess I'm going to have to Google up one of those locking pins, because it's clearly not what I was visualizing! Secondary hole....? Okay, I'm behind the times on that one!

Raya

Here you go Raya, the receiver has two holes on one side to take the J part.

Bill K
Click to view attachment