Most of the bag awning installs seem to be on the more squared off Trilliums, etc. I encountered a few issues trying to install the 8 foot Shademaker Supreme awning on my 13 Scamp with the egg contours of the front and aft sections.

Following is how I installed it.
We've now been through several good outings and the awning is awesome. I hope this will help anyone wanting to install a bag awning on a 13 Scamp or similar.

I purchased 9 feet of continuous awning rail from a local RV shop since I didn't like the two four foot sections that they sell for the awning. After pondering and dry-fitting for a few days I cut the rail to 6' 11" which will give you about 6.5" of overhang of the bag on each end. This is unavoidable with the curvature of the Scamp, but turned out not to be an issue.

The location of the rail is approximately 10.5" from the base of the ridgeline on the roof to the awning rail and 6" above the drip cap over the door to the awning rail. This may vary depending on your year of 13 Scamp but should get you pretty close. Make sure the Trailer is completely level and level the awning rail prior to marking guide holes.

To attach the rail to the Scamp I used Butyl Tape under the entire length of the awning rail, and used 9-1.25" 10-24 SS Machine Screws backed with SS fender washers and nuts in three locations.(Both the front and rear of the rail and center of the rail) These locations where I used bolts come through in the front and rear overhead storage bins and the closet by the door so the nuts and fender washers are not visible inside the trailer. These are for added strength for stresses of awning use. The remainder of the awning holes I riveted.

Cost of the project:
Awning Shademaker Supreme 8ft $250 free ship.
Awning rail $20
Butyl tape, SS Machine Screws, Nuts, Fender Washers and rivets: approx $20
Using Awning while camping: Priceless

Following are the photos:
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Greg,

Wow, thank you! I'd like to add some sort of awning to my Boler for this summer, and this really helps me to visualize the rail installation. I didn't realize that bag awnings (could) contain all those legs and stretcher bars - that's impressive. One question: Does one customarily leave the bag on when traveling distances? Or take it off and put it inside? Do all the metal parts stow in the bag?

I'm probably going to sew a simple awning out of some Sunbrella I have on hand (at least that's what I was planning), but that's pretty neat Oh, could I ask how deep the awning is? (That is, how much fabric length there is perpendicular to the trailer?)

I don't mean to sound like a nitpicky nerd, but unless I'm looking at them wrong, I think those are machine screws you used and not bolts (might be helpful for people who are going to be shopping for them).

Thanks especially for the illustrated photographs.

Raya

nice write up Greg

Raya,

The write-up from the Shademaker info probably answers the questions you asked.

RV Awnings Featuring:

* 10 oz tri-laminated vinyl stripe pattern fabric available in sizes
6' to 14'
* Everything stores neatly in a weatherproof zippered 16 oz. travel case that slides into your awning rail.
* Awning can be left on trailer during travel and storage. Legs and rafter supports are attached to the front rail, and just fold up into front rail when storing, no loose poles at all.
* Available in a wide range of colors: Blue, Teal, Burgundy, and Brown
* 84" projection when rolled out
* Optional spring-loaded center rafter is available the help maintain fabric tension in larger awnings, it is recommended on sizes 11' and larger.

I recommend getting the Supreme as it is quite a bit better then the standard



I went out and looked at the box of hardware and ur right they are labeled "machine screws." I always called all that stuff nuts and bolts growing up, which is probably better then the thingie that goes in the watchit.

Here's an action shot of the awning.
Click to view attachment

Hi Greg,

I probably should have gone to look at the Shademaker site before asking (bad me!), but on the other hand, I was interested in whether you or others traveled with the bag on the rail or off (I see they say you can travel with it on; but mfgr's recommendations and "real world" are not always the same, especially for our smaller, rounded eggs.)

Looks like the awning projects almost straight out, so the projection length from Shademaker is probably very close to the actual length of the fabric.

I also grew up thinking anything with a flat end was a bolt. Funny how that was so pervasive.

Raya

That looks good in the pictures and I sure get tired of tugging something through the rail each time we camp. The awning rail on our Boler is only about 2" above the drip mould over the door so I would have to raise it several inches. Then fill the old holes and re-paint the trailer top half.

Bolts are usually hex head for a wrench and machine screws flat headded and tightened with a screwdriver. Also a bolt will stick up above it's surroundings, while a machine screw will lay flat to the surface.

James,

I had the same situation with the original awning rail being right above the drip cap. So I had removed it and if you look closely at my center rail pic you'll see the fill spots from the old rail. The bag awning now covers that old repair so it is not visible. We got tired of loading the First Up in and out of the camper and we never take this one off the rail now, so I consider it a permanent mount.

So I guess it's a "yes" that the overhanging ends of the awning bag don't flap in the wind when you're going 65 mph? (I realize you probably would have mentioned that, but it seems amazing that they wouldn't - amazing in a good way!).

Raya

They don't at all, materials too stiff and there is not enough outside the rail to make any difference.

So if I raised the rail it would then be more or less on top of the curved side section. That would help it clear the door whenever you open it without needing a centre ridge support.

BTW I checked out your 4sale Forum. Very nice and easy to navigate.
Well done!
Jim

Thanks, Jim.

Where I've got it located on the Scamp there are no issues with the door clearance. Not sure if that would translate straight across to the Boler, or if my mearsurements would put you where you need to be, but it should be pretty close I would think.