I ordered a BAL tire leveler from Sportsmans Guide website for only 54.97 plus 10.97 shipping. Very pleased with it. It only takes a few minutes now to back into a site and get level with it one try. I used the leveling blocks before and always seemed like i had to adjust a few times to get level. This thing just clamps on each corner of tire and ratchets up to the level position. It even comes with a ratchet wrench. I checked JC Whitney and Camping World and they were almost twice as much money.
BAL leveler

Of all the items I have for my trailer, from carpet to awning, this might be the one item I appreciate the most. I NEVER have to find a perfectly level spot, nor do the trailer shuffle of pulling forward... putting down a block, backing up, pulling forward, putting on another block, to find out I need a half-thickness block! My refer is always level (so is my bed!), I'm sure the refrigerator appreciates it too!

But (isn't there always?) the BAL is relatively heavy for those watching weight closely and it doesn't work on the heavier trailers (or at least that's what the instructions say).

BTW: My Scamp has 15" tires too and it works great.

Donna, I do not see on the Web site how much it weighs or how much it will lift. Since you are using it on a 16; I assume it will probably work OK with my 17' Casita.

Thanks

Dave

Camping World says 18.75 lbs; another site said 19.75 lbs (I was curious too).

Strange that BAL doesn't list a weight for them, nor do they say how heavy the trailer can be (only that it must be a "light" single-axle trailer, which is a bit subjective). I looked in their downloads section but there isn't a manual for the Leveler that I can see.

Raya

BTW
I got an adapter and socket and used my cordless drill.
It raised a 10' cargo trailer without even slowing down.
( don't have my scamp yet )

Bill K

Has anyone come up with a slick way to carry their BAL?
So far, I've just been setting it on the floor of the Scamp when traveling.

We use the BAL Leveler on our 3200 lbs (when loaded) 5th wheel with no problems.

One other thing the BAL Leveler does that's very nice is it stops some (not all) of the trailer motion we used to notice up in the 5er's loft.

Mine is carried in the original cardboard box in the back of the tug. The shaft mechanism is greasy so that seemed the best way to carry it. Although I have thought about buying a vinyl case..... one of those kinds for Christmas Wreaths.... I think it would be big enough and it has a long zipper opening. Guess I'll continue to use the rather worn out cardboard box until the Holiday Season rolls around and I can get a wreath carrier Unless someone posts some fantastic idea!

I prefer wooden blocks, which are lighter, cheaper and also useful as blocking when jacking up trailer or truck, but that's me -- YMMV!

I looked at this BAL Tire Leveler before I bought 4 BAL Scissor Jacks (rated at 5,000 lbs. cap. each). Obviously, I don't need that much lift to block up a Casita, but they're really easy to run up and down, and I can use any one of them as a stand-alone jack for tire changing, etc. My cordless drill doesn't even slow down when it lifts the frame. I just put all four around the trailer under the frame members. I use a cordless drill with the socket for the jacks fitted to it to spin the jack rods. I start with the lowest corner, and work my way around to the highest point. All told from digging them out of the back of the pickup, positioning them, and completely braced and levelled out (on ANY site, however cock-eyed and uneven it may be) in about 2-3 minutes. There is absolutely no movement or flexing in my trailer when set up.
I could be wrong, but to me it looks like the tire lifter model being touted here doesn't seem to touch the frame at any point. How could this thing possibly stabilize the trailer, since all you've done is raise the tire/wheel in the air. It doesn't appear to brace and steady the trailer's frame. Since you're still basically "sitting" on the axle suspension, I just don't see how your rig doesn't bounce around when you're in it.
If you still need some form of frame stabilizing after running your wheel up on that thing, it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to even consider using it in my opinion.

I don't know about everyone else, but I don't use just the BAL Leveler. I use that to get the trailer level, even if one tire is in a hole. Once level, I use a stabilizer system on the frame. Now the trailer is supported in six places (four places on the frame and both tires), which makes it stable and level. I've camped in someplaces if I only used the four-corner method, I'd have one tire spinning off the ground. At least with the BAL, that tire is supported and in turn supports the center/side of the trailer too.

Rocking could be a result of up/down motion and of, probably lesser degrees, rolling motion. BAL lifter will not stop vertical motion but it will stop rolling motion. I believe that it will have stabilization effect. Scissor jack manufacturer are selling stabilization links to stop horizontal motion.



I installed C-jacks controlled with wireless remote on my 21RB Bigfoot. Even thou each one has capacity of 5,000 lb I hesitate to use them to lift the trailer due to the risk of excessive twisting of the frame. By using suspension points BAL lifter is a safe way of lifting without stressing the frame and chassis.


George.

I have the BAL leveler and single wheel chock and they are a "must have" Many people on the pop-up forum use a pizza delivery bag for storage and even sold them. I also put heat shrink wrap on the turning block on the chock to make it more user friendly to turn by hand.

BAL leveler

BAL chock

Remember the old bumper sticker ...

If this trailer's rockin, don't come knockin

I bought mine from Sportsmans Guide last summer when our dollar had a more favourable exchange.

I was sceptical at first, both about the weight and where to store it, but after using it for the last half of the camping season it has been wonderful, easier setup and take down. I wouldn't want to do without it now.

So far I store it in a bag, and wrap the screw in a plastic bag to keep the grease from going everywhere. I am still looking for a better storage bag.

The BAL leveler is just that, a Leveling system. It is not a Stabilizing system.
The trailer was designed to have it's weight supported mostly by it's axle and tires.

I used to level up my Fiber Stream the same way you do, with your stabilizers.
I never felt it flex, but it did flex. My frame is now torqued, and the body sags to one side. The door does not close properly all of the time. It was not this way when I bought the trailer. I have had a welder strengthen my frame, but I cannot get the bend out of it. That would require a complete frame-off restoration that I have neither time nor money for!

Levelers level, and stabilizers brace against movement. You need both.

We carry ours in a small gym bag.Fits perfectly and the handles make for easy carrying.Of everything we have purchased for our trailer this is the best and worth every cent we paid for it.

Well, gee. I have one, but I don't like it as much as the rest of you seem to.

Compared to leveling blocks, it's heavy and dirty and sometimes gets stuck in place. I have had to wrestle with it more than once.

Although I use my cordless drill to level my fiver's front jacks, my drill pooped out on the BAL.

I just can't seem to fall in love with it and have left it at home the last several trips.

If you really don't like it Lyle, I'd be interested in buying a used one to try out.

Frederick, I suspect that the kink in your frame was not caused by the stabilization jacks but by a combination of a heavy tail and a big bump or pothole.

The reasons I say this are

1. If it were caused by jacking up the corners of the trailer, the frame would be sway-backed (lower in the center) while you describe it as having a drooping tail on the door side. See your post http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...rt=#entry309836

2. The Fiber Stream, like many trailers, uses the shell itself as a stiffener for the frame -- but the doorway is a weak point because the opening cannot support shear stresses. Because of the shape of the doorway (it goes all the way to the floor but not all the way to the roof) it is easier to flex the frame down at the tail than it is to flex it up.

3. The steel in the frame will not take a set unless it is bent beyond its yield point. I don't think your earlier contention the the long-term weight of the holding tanks being the cause of the bent frame is true -- I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.

I had the trailer jacked up to straighten the frame, then I had a welder sister in a solid bar beside the bent member. When the trailer was returned to it's wheels, the new bar bent to match the frame's memory bend. I decided to live with it.

I agree completely with Lyle. I bought one when I had my first Casita. It's way too much work to handle and use and sometimes I couldn't even get it under the tire.

I threw it away. So you can't have it Roy.

I use mine on every trip - never had a problem getting it around the tire but that may be 'cause our Trillium only has 13' tires. Our fridge is pretty finicky and being able to dial in level is important.

Saying that, they are dirty as it needs to be well greased and I still haven't found a good way to store it while travelling.

I find it very easy to use (I also have smaller tires) but I often don't need it and then it does feel like a lot to carry and store when all I do is take it out and put it under the trailer when I stop. It is WAY easier for me to level it that way, though.

I want one too but would rather buy used too. So if any of you who do not like theirs please PM me and i'll buy yours.

thanks

Alexandra

I think what happened with the welder is that in jacking up the frame he flexed it enough to make it straight, but did not go beyond the yield point, the result being frame would return to its bent shape when the jacks were taken away. The sister bar wasn't strong enough to resist the frame's memory of the bend, so it bent to conform to the frame.

It's real hard to take out a bend like that because it's nearly impossible to subject the frame to a sufficient force against gravity and the stiffening effect of the trailer's body to go past the yield point in a calibrated manner. You want to only go far enough to take out the kink, not so much as to put in a reverse kink, and not so little as to have no significant effect.

If it makes you feel any better, Steve Lang's Fiber Stream also had a bend in the same place. Perhaps it wasn't quite as bad but it certainly was noticeable.

BAL leveler storage in pizza bag

BAL in pizza bag

That's an awesome idea Shane!

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Roy, I would sell it to you, or even give it to you, except that I might have one more use for it.

Its one good feature is that it permits very preciseleveling. I am thinking of adding a solar panel at some point, and would need to have the trailer very level when I do that.

You can get pizza bag here. Get the 18 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 5 1/2 size. $25.77 delivered.
The pop-up forum no longer sells them.

Pizza bag source.

Thanks Shane!
Plus...you can use it to bring pizza to potlucks

Lyle,

Just curious why you feel you would have to have the trailer "very level" for the solar panel? On boats, we tilt them purposely to catch the sun, and of course they don't stay level unless the water is flat calm, and the boat is loaded perfectly evenly (once in a century).

Oh wait, maybe you mean while installing it? But then you'd probably measure an even distance from the roof (or whatever) anyway, so probably not.

I'm sure I'm missing something though

Raya

An alternative to BAL….

I want to share a simple method of leveling my 21RB trailer. More proactive approach eliminates some of the leveling attempts speeding up this camping routine. Using digital level, I_use_this_one, on the trailer floor I measure a side to side slope in degrees with trailer parked at the desired destination. The attached cheat-sheet tells me how much of lift I need. Using 1" thick Lynx blocks gives me ½" fine adjustment on two axle trailer. Final, small adjustments are done using four stabilizing C-Jacks.

The attached cheat-sheet is based on 95" dimension measured between outer tires threads on an axle. Send me a PM if you would like to get this simple MS spreadsheet.

George.

PS; I am planning to attach permanently side to side digital gauge somewhere but not sure where yet and when.

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There's no need for current fridge designs to get the fridge as level as they needed to be in the past.

Pete,

Do you know when they switched over to the newer designs, and how one tells the difference (say, if one does not know how old the fridge is)?

Thanks,

Raya

Yes, I believe it is a common belief that newer refrigerators don’t require as precise level as the older ones. Unfortunately without a number of what is "a less precise" level being on the cautious side can save me hassle and money (fairly, less precisely, close to are not numbers). Friend of mine just paid $1200 for replacing his fridge on 2004 Bigfoot Camper.

George.


extract_from_Camping_World

“There are several things we can do to help the refrigerator do its job more efficiently. First and foremost the RV must be fairly level for the refrigerator to operate properly. Older RV refrigerators required more precise leveling, but even the newer models need to be close to level for optimum performance”

I think it's nice the refer is level... stuff doesn't roll around or list to one side.. like cans laying on their sides in the bottom. But, I prefer the trailer to be level.. FOR ME. Maybe it's Murphy's Law, but whenever I get a bit lazy and don't care if it's a half-bubble off... my head ALWAYS seems to be on the down side when I sleep... and that drives me crazy. I've actually gotten up in the middle of the night and turned everything around just so I didn't feel like the blood was rushing to my head.

We think the BAL is the best $70.00 we ever spent. I called BAL to get the weight limit and was told 1800 lbs., we want to try it with the Bigfoot this year. The BF weighs about 2900lbs. without food or clothes. For storage we use a air conditioner cover that we found windblow on the street with a bungee.
Tony and Darlene

I have only one question. What the heck is "imitation nylon?"

Donna, I have the exact same problem. I am not sure what is off in our trailer but when the fridge is level the bed sure isn't!

I agree, my target is bubble in the middle as well. If I could use BAL lifter a bubble device would be the only measuring tool I would use. Unfortunately 21RB Bigfoot is at BAL’s weight limit and has two axles. Perhaps I could use 2 BALs but this could become cumbersome and I am not sure there is enough room for side by side BALs. Using blocks under tires was always hit and miss for me and I rarely hit a target in one attempt. With prior angle measurement I bull’s eye in one shot. I probably could use bubble as a gauge to estimate how much lift is going to be needed but I never master my eye calibration. I have seen folks with expertise of looking at a parking spot and predicting how many inches lift per side is needed but it I am not as good.

George.

I just picked up a large shopping bag with handles at Gorden foods for $1.99.

When I got home I put the Bal, box and all in the bag and it worked out great.

Bill K

The screw can be greasy so I cover it with a piece of foam pipe insulation when storing the leveler. I've only used it once and it was fine. I'd like to figure out a way to mount on the tongue for storage.

I agree with many – the BAL wheel leveler is a great thing to use. In order for it too work properly it is necessary to keep the screw mechanism well lubricated so yes, it can be messy to store and transport.
Since the screw mechanism is the messy part, I created a canister out of inexpensive PVC parts.

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Oh yes, another thing – in addition to a leveler it is a great wheel chock.

Don

Thanks for the great idea Don, I will make one this week.

Bill K

My side-to-side leveling process is:
Before entering the site, we "walk" it to locate the hookups, spot any bad low/high spots and 'attack' trees. Having decided upon a probable location I point out to the PIC where I would like to have the rear bumper stop. This spot is normally about one foot beyond where I would like to setup. Then, while backing in (or pulling in) I watch the large bubble level mounted on the belly band of the egg.
Click to view attachment
When the PIC signals that the back bumper is in position, depending upon the information from the large bubble level, I may pull or push the egg a bit to get a 'best starting level' position. Then a signal to the PIC and she puts 'her' block (a short board) in front/back of the low side wheel and I pull/push the egg onto the board. The PIC chocks the high side wheel while I put the truck in park, set the parking brake and turn off the ignition.
Click to view attachment
I get the BAL leveler, place it around the low side wheel. Using a cordless drill and guided by the small bubble levels mounted in each wheel well, level, and/or chock, the low side. Often the PICs block is all that is necessary to level the trailer and the BAL level ends up being used as a chock. But when needed, the BAL level is a great solution.
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On an average day it takes about 4 min for the walk, site enter and side-to-side leveling thing.

Don

Dana, Frederick - your discussion is surely good food for thought for anyone that considers mounting weight that extends beyond the frame fore or aft on any trailer. I've learned two things today:

1. The BAL leveler - didn't even know they existed until today. I might just pick one up!
2. Frederick, your story illustrates the complexity of repairing a problem and the law of unexpected consequences when loading or modifying a trailer beyond it's original design. Dana<<I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.>>

Thanks to both of you for your sharing your experience and your knowledge.

Unfortunately, the combination of the lightweight frame and the placement of the Black and Gray holding tanks cantilevered behind the rear axle ARE the original design of the Fiber Stream. I have come to the conclusion that I must empty the tanks before towing for any significant distance for there is no telling how bad even freeway pavement is.

I'm sorry for hijacking this leveler thread with my woes; but I was responding to the use of stabilizers to level; which I believe to be an uninformed practice. You can't always expect your trailer frame to be over-engineered to be completely rigid.

Not a hijack at all Frederick. Your comments confirm that my frame also torques using the stabilizer jacks. All the more reason to get a BAL leveller.