QUOTE (Raya L. @ Apr 18 2009, 04:15 PM)

I do like the idea of making the street-side seat more towards the middle. Right now I have a counter there (over the original couch) that extends the kitchen counter forward. With the "shifted seat" idea you could keep a narrow counter and storage area behind the street side seat (not next to the kitchen in your case, Yvon, I realize).
I think that the seats might be a bit deep and straight anyway, if you make them too big. I have seen where someone did this, but I don't have a photo saved.
Edited to say: "Oh, I did save a couple of photos!" It's a bit hard to see, but the dinette is shifted to the door side, and there's a shallow counter and storage area behind the street-side seat back (they also look to have the "non-notched" frame, so the table is closer to window height by about 5" (vs. one where the notch floor is used to determine table height).
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentRaya
Hi there! These are pictures of our remodeled Lil Bigfoot. You are right, the table is off center to make it easier to get into the seat past the corner of the kitchen counter. The street side seat has storage area behind it, accessed by lifting the counter top. We use it for extra bedding or heavy coats that we don't need often. Both seats have storage under them also. Just lift the seat cushion and the seat support to access. The table was purchased at an RV supply stor and is flat on the backside so before installing, my husband had to make a filler to fit the curve of the trailer. Then put a little shlf on the top where we keep little stuff--pencils, cards, keys stc.
I'm not sure I know what you mean by "non notched frame", but the floor has about a 4 inch step up across the front of the trailer. The table is flat against the wall in the stored position and the top slides up and then lays out to make the eating surface.
For the seat backs, my husband built (for lack of a better explanation) curved "ladders" that fit the shape of the trailer walls. Then I upholstered them using a roll and tuck method, stapling each roll to a step of the "ladder" from the back. After finishing off all the edges, we used industrial strength Velcro to hold them in place. We wrapped each seat back in a plastic bag, open end at the bottom, slid the back into place (snug fit)then pulled the plastic up and off the seat backs. The Velcro stuck to the wall fabric and hasn't budged since. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer any more questions. Bonnie