Good question, Steve. I definitely will put some in; either a foam-baked material, ensolite or XPE, reflectix. I don't know at this point. I'm open to suggestions.

Fran

So the Compact Jr came first, Kent? Then the company made the Compact II? Other than shape and length of pop-top, what differences are there?

Fran

I was wondering if anyone knows where to get the interioir that the scamps have in them or if the factory will sell it through the parts department. I have a dvd here at home from scamp and it looks like a neat and easdy to install interior

Do you mean the cabinetry, such as the kitchen, closet, and benches? Or are you thinking of the "rat fur" used on the walls, or...?

Most of the molded parts are made with the curves of a Boler/clone in mind, so they would probably need enough customization to make them rather time-consuming to fit to a "square" camper such as a Compact. That said, I could see the kitchen base potentially working. Still, it's not really all that special - I mean, there's nothing wrong with it, but it's just a fiberglass shell, really. It's not bristling with custom drawers or anything like that. It would be a neat and "quick" install on a Boler clone.

I know from inquiring about the upper cabinets that the units would be expensive to ship. One of the (relatively small) upper end cabinets would have cost around $150 to buy, and then the same amount to ship, effectively doubling the price.

Raya

Scamp does sell the wall covering, 'rat fur' as some call it, in their parts department. I think it was $9. square yard. Insulation is separate. I think they use something like Reflectix.

Fran

Thank you, and yes I was refering to the Rat fur. I have never been in one to see the fabric first hand. It looks nice in the video that I saw of it. The isulation was more of interset to me. If it is the same as the other that you mentiond I should be able to find it elsewhere. I was concernd that I have seen more thatn one person talk about the condesatio n on the walls of the cj and cjII. That was one thing my wiofe was looking forward to getting away from in a camper.

Francene, you mentioned you got a 3-way fridge with yours. I'm trying to figure out what would fit well in mine. Would you please tell me the make and model you have, as well as the outside dimensions?

And Heath, would you provide the same information on your fridge?

Thanks!

Dana T, my fridge is only the 2 way thst runs on propane or 110 power. it is made by norcold and I will go out and get the dementions for you soon. IO know that mine was replaced many years ago but it dtill works well and I can tell you that it is the same as the original because nothing was cut out to make it fir.

Heath,

I am also interested in the refrigderator replacement. Could you please provide a model number so that I may research the specs. I am almost at the point of mounting the original refridgerator back in, and will do a final test before I do. If the new model is affordable, I may opt for a new one.

My Compact Jr originally had an ice box, so I can only guess at the refrigerator.

Looking at Dometic's current line I see that only the RM2351 and RM2354 look like likely candidates -- they are 29 3/4 high, 20 1/2 wide, and 21 3/8 deep. Most of the rest are 24" deep, and after you add in the 1" clearance required in back and account for the sloping trailer side, a nominal 24" refrigerator would stick out into the aisle too much. They do have another model that isn't so deep, the RM2193, but it is 21" high and 17 3/4 wide -- much smaller than I want.

The Norcold N300/N300.3 at 29 3/4 high, 20 1/2 wide, and 21 3/8 deep looks ideal for these trailers. Another possibility is the Norcold 774 or 874 at 33 1/8 high, 22" wide, and 21 3/4 deep.

Dometic used to make a number of models that would fit well, including the following:
RM4290 and 4292 29 5/8H 20 5/8W 20D
RM36 28 3/4H 20 1/2W 20 5/8D
RM360, 361, 2300, 2301, 2310, 2332, 2333, all of which were 29 3/4H 20 1/2W 21 3/8D

Remember on all of these measurements to add the required 1" clearance in back to calculate how much they intrude into the aisleway.

-------------

Cliff, I found the "refrigerator replacements" guide at the Dometic web site very helpful for getting the measurements of not only current Dometic models, but also for other brands and discontinued models. You can go to http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/R...uctdataid=71135 to see the RM 2354, and then click on the orange "replacement models" link in the "Useful Links" menu on the righthand side of the page to download the PDF.

When I first looked at Francene's and Heath's photos of their respective trailers, I thought Heath had a deeper fridge than Francene, because his stuck out from the cabinetry much further than Francene's. But now I think that Francene's trailer has a narrower aisleway to make room for the pottyroom closet.

Let's measure and find out!

My aisleway between the sink cabinet and the fridge cabinet is 28 3/4" measuring just inside the rear door from one cabinet frame (not door) to the other. What's your aisle width?

One of the subtle differences between the Jr and the II is the allotment of space inside. The kitchen aisle of my Jr is 28" X 42". The dorm frig (110V only) is 16"W x 29"H x 14"D inside and appears to be mounted in the altered space of the original ice box that is 19" deep at the top.

Tom Trostel

Here's a two page refrigerator replacement chart, with model numbers and dimensions. This info is provided by Dometic, so obviously it's for Dometic refrigerators. Hope it helps:

HI all, my 73 Compact II has a rectangle table with one center leg. You can slide the tabletop all the way to back wall and turn it sideways as well. To turn into bed, you have to physically pick up the tabletop and lift it off the leg, remove leg from its slot on floor, then place table to fill in opening with its edges overlapping the edges of the side benches. Then you fill in the space with the backrest cushions. Makes a huge bed. WHen out with one dog, I leave table in place and we sleep on the side benches. JUst got back from 8 days away with both dogs and found immediately that I had to make the big bed and it stayed as a bed the entire time. Just made sure I threw on a big sheet for them to rest on and took that off at night for bed.

Actually worked out well - used the space under bed for my shoes and dogs' dishes, groceries, etc.

Hi Francene - yes, I'm one of those people enjoying your renovation vicariously. I'm trying to figure out where to put an a/c in my 73 Compact II and whether I can do it or have to wait until I can hire RV place to do it.

Can't remember if you have mentioned a/c or not in your posts - have you? Where will you be putting it?

Also, previous owner must have backed into tree since the frame for the screen part of door is bent and screen starting to pull out. Have you seen one of these for sale any where?

thanks for the help,
Pat

Hi Dana,
Just saw your note. The fridge is a 3-way Dometic, 2 1/2 cu. ft. I will get you the model # tomorrow a.m.

Till then,
Francene

Hi Dana,
Just went out and measured fridge. A Plate stuck on back says: Made in England, Product #: 9282571, Unit Type: 257A1,

The faceplate, the part that sticks out in front of the cabinet, is 20 1/8"W x 22"H x 1 5/8"D

The case is: 19 1/8"W x 22"H x 19 1/4" D. TOTAL Depth including face that sticks outside of cabinet: 20 7/8"

It sure looks old, but it runs cold~

Hope this helps!
Fran

Got a new subfloor in yesterday. Used Liquid Nails Subfloor adhesive at the joints.

I am pretty sure I'll put in Armstrong vinyl sheet flooring, with a 'wood grain pattern'.

For now, I'm finishing up welding a battery box on the front of the trailer, patching some nicks with Bondo, and reconnecting the gas line under the floor.

I'm hoping to have the trailer painted next week at MAACO.

(I've included a photo of the fridge because Dana asked about the model. )

Havin' fun,
Fran

Francene, that looks great. looks like you are well on you way to using it soon. looks like the frridge is the same , or was the same in the jr and the II. I am lucky to have the original paperwork on my refrigerator and it was a dometic model rm23. looks to be the same dem. as yours.

To answer dana question, the one that is in my comact jr is now a norcold model 322. the cutout specs for it are 20 5/8H- 17 1/2w- 21 1/4. hope that helps Dana.

Francene, you are going to get me in trouble with all this talk of gutting things and startiong over. My wife Candy, says we havwe to use it for one season B-4 the lets me take mine apart. have fun

WOW! That looks GREAT! I wish MY floor ran wall to wall rather than 6" from teh wall (give or take). The drop is such a pain! (Though not enough so for me to gut the rig to replace it...yet!)

On the Armstrong floor - let me just say we have Armstrong vinyl in our kitchen at home. ANYTHING sharp dropped on it will cause a nick, which soon fills with crude, and can tear. Got a sharp piece of gravel you've stepped on? NICK! Drop a knife? NICK! It's nice LOOKING stuff, though.

Jen

Hi Francene and Heath, thanks for the model numbers and dimensions of the fridge.

Re Armstrong or other vinyl flooring -- what we often see is "residential" flooring, which has a very thin wear coat. When I had the bathrooms in our house refloored the installer showed me "institutional" flooring, like for hospital hallways, and the wearcoat was very thick and tough. Dropped forks, grit caught in shoes, wheelchair tires or whatever didn't even faze it. You might consider that for the trailer, because all the traffic will be confined to a very small area, subjecting it to much more wear than would be experienced at a house. Of course the trailer wouldn't normally be used every day of the year....

Thanks Jen, Heath and Dana for your comments about vinyl flooring. What would you recommend, Jen?

I DO have some leftover laminate flooring; just thought it was heavier than vinyl- I'm trying to consider weight when using materials. I tow with a 4 cyl. Camry, 2000lb tow limit.

The original vinyl flooring that was removed on the rotted subfloor was in good condition; ugly pattern, but the no gouges. The stuff at Home Depot that I was considering, Armstrong Vinyl sheet Sentinel, has a 10 year warranty against rip, tear or gouge from 'normal' household use. Maybe your floor at home, Jen, is a 5 year or less warranty grade of flooring.

Institutional flooring- hmm. Home Depot has Allure Commercial heavy duty flooring planks, which could even be used in garages.

-Fran

Fortunately, our flooring WAS 10-year warranty, but the guy had to come back and replace a section of it after the second week because the builder dropped some sort of sharp implement on it during cabinet installation and caused a ding. While at the house, the flooring guy found a few other dings he patched up, and he reglued the joint which was already splitting.

OTHERWISE, the floor HAS held up pretty well over the past 6 years. Where the chairs slide (dining room table), the floor is scuffed, but I only notice it when I'm doing one of those hands-and-knees floor-scrubbing jobs (as opposed to the more frequent mop treatment).

I suspect that, over the past six years, Armstrong has improved their product. I just wanted to share MY experience.

Other options? Hmmm...wood floor (but that's heavy), wood laminate (just as heavy plus scarring issues), commercial-grade tile (Do they make any of that you'd WANT to look at?).

At any rate, I ended up covering my floor with a bit of carpet in the end. It made it MUCH more cozy, much easier on bare feet, and since I didn't glue it down, all I have to do for a good cleaning is roll it like a taco and slide it out.

Click to view attachment
Fran, I took a closer look at your pictures of the subfloor and noticed that it is thicker in the aisleway than the four "ears", where by ears I mean the area in front of and behind the wheel wells. My trailer doesn't have any subfloor over the ears. Did you just paint the ears the same color as the subfloor but they are really the fiberglass body, or did you lay some thinner subfloor there?

Thanks!

Hello all,
After much Bondo-ing, sanding, nit-picking, I took the Compact II to Maaco for painting.
It is VERY shiny now; their quality of work was pretty good, save for some worn areas that when sanded, left pitted areas that they didn't fill. But hopefully, the paint will hold up. It only took 1 day, and now it's back home but still smelling like auto paint.

Here are some photos. Next step is installing the vinyl flooring I picked up at Lowes yesterday. Then put in some supports for the cabinet framing.

Best,
Fran

Wow Francene, That looks great. I was a little scared for you when you said Maco was doing the paint put looks like it turned out mutch better than i thought it would. Maybe I should rethink letting my friend paint it and let the pro's do it. My wife wnat's ours the same color as yours. I know you have seen the pics of my camper and thankfully I don't need a total restore but I would like to do the paint, and the more I see of yours the more I want to do with mine so keep the insperation going.

Some more photos of new flooring that went in today, yeah! Armstrong sheet vinyl, 10 year stuff from Lowes.

Also photo of trailer tongue add-ons, battery box holder, storage box holder, and spare tire holder.

Lastly, a photo of newly painted Pop-top.

Next, wall and ceiling fabric have to go in. Hmm... probably vinyl over laminate floor underlayment foam.

Whew,
Fran

Thanks, Heath. Maaco did a good job, but there were some areas that they could have applied a bit of Bondo after they sanded, or called me on what to do, but they just went ahead and sprayed over a few pitted areas that showed up after their initial sanding. Anyway, the paint looks even and glossy, and their taping-off was neatly done. Now time will tell how it stands up.

It was expensive; if your friend is somewhat experienced, I think you could save a lot. Just spray lightly so you won't get drips and sags. Take time to prepare the surface, as with all painting. Every little blemish shows more with glossy paint over it.

Best of luck,
Fran

Fran,
Everything LOOKS wonderful...what you've done is incredible.
I need to get going on my '73 Compact II...I want to take it to MAACO but was very hesitant...you always hear the GOOD , the BAD and the UGLY!!! They seem to have done a good job. Maybe I'll sand and Bondo mine, before taking it over to MAACO. Any reason you took out the windows before painting it...did it lower the price dramatically by them not having to tape them...or are you getting new windows? Where are you getting your new belly band...Camping world? I want a bright colored one but haven't really shopped around.
AND Last but NOT LEAST, how much did MAACO charge?
Thank you so much for showing your pics, as you go along. It's really PUSHED me to have some SHINE in MY LIFE!
Barbara

Fran,
Everything LOOKS wonderful...what you've done is incredible.
I need to get going on my '73 Compact II...I want to take it to MAACO but was very hesitant...you always hear the GOOD , the BAD and the UGLY!!! They seem to have done a good job. Maybe I'll sand and Bondo mine, before taking it over to MAACO. Any reason you took out the windows before painting it...did it lower the price dramatically by them not having to tape them...or are you getting new windows? Where are you getting your new belly band...Camping world? I want a bright colored one but haven't really shopped around.
AND Last but NOT LEAST, how much did MAACO charge?
Thank you so much for showing your pics, as you go along. It's really PUSHED me to have some SHINE in MY LIFE!
Barbara

Pardon me for butting into the conversation, but let me tell you what I know about paint shops. No two are alike in the quality of work done. Let me repeat that, no two are alike in the quality of work done. We have several MAACO shops here in Portland. They all CHARGE the same amount for work (estimate rate). One shop, that I know about, does absolute stellar work. The paint people have worked at that shop for years. Get repeat business from longtime customers and it takes weeks to get an appointment to get anything painted. Another shop across town, I wouldn't take my go cart to them to paint. If you need something done, they can do it tomorrow. IIIIIICCCCCCKKKKK.

So, if you want something painted, make absolutely sure you know who you're taking it to based on THAT SHOP'S reputation, not some nationwide reputation. You may be VERY sorry.

And the best paint jobs are done with all brightwork and windows removed. The reason is simple, if you ever pull anything (like a window) and then put it back in, the chance of getting it in EXACTLY the same spot is pretty slim. You don't want to have a "ring" around the window where there's no paint.

Off my soap box now and back to your regularly scheduled topic.

YUP!!!!! double ditto..... Larry

Francene, don't beat yourself up too bad over those small pinholes in the paint. I spent weeks sanding and filling and spot puttying my Compact II before taking it to the paint shop and I was sure I'd gotten all the prep work just right, but lo and behold the little beggars showed up and disappointed me. Now I just consider them as part of the "caricture "of my trailer what you've done looks GREAT! Keep up the good work. Chuck H.

Hey! WOW! I recognize that tongue setup! So far so good!

Your project is rolling along so nicely! LOVE it! Keep posting!

Jen

I knew each Maaco shop was individually owned, franchised. This particular one is new to Bellingham. I guess they're not going out of their way to impress. A neat, clean, even job, just expected a bit more care.

Thanks for the comments!

Your design looked like a good example to me, Jen. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery... a belated is in order. I forgot I was influenced by yours. ( I got my spare tire hanging out the right side, though. Haven't mounted it yet. )

Thanks,
Fran

IT was a hoot to see it there! I'm glad to see my fix inspired another!

What did you do to secure it in place? Mine has a post that rises on the body-side of the mount and nearly touches (about 1" clearance) the trailer. Currently, a strap holds it in place. I hope to make it a more permanent fastener in future.

Jen

For the spare tire, Jen, I welded on a post upon which I welded one of those threaded u-shaped spare tire holders that are sold to loop over the trailer frame. You are right, there is barely any breathing space between the tire and the front of the trailer, but it's enough.

Best,
Fran

Progress is happening, bit by bit...

Finally installed new foam-backed marine vinyl to walls and ceiling.

I installed the front window today, with it's window guard. All the windows needed extensive clean-up; plenty of old stubborn caulks and crud had to be removed. Fresh butyl tape and back on they go. One side window needed re-setting of loose glass, but I did that today, after getting supplies and instruction from a local window shop. Hope to get on the other two windows tomorrow.

It's great to get the parts back on the trailer; I keep bumping into them in my cluttered garage.

I wonder how Dana is doing?

Oh my Fran, your trailer looks wonderful!

I too am making progress bit by bit, but I didn't tear mine down nearly as much -- not saying it doesn't need it though!

My wife reminds me I had better start posting instead of reading all the time. I'll do that as soon as I read a few more posts....

Thanks much, Dana. My husband is very perfectionist and doesn't respond to the progress with words like "wonderful". It's nice to hear that.

By the way, have you ever seen the website : http://thistinyhouse.com ? They are refinishing a Compact Jr.

Keep up the good work, Dana~

Fran

PLEASE HELP with a perplexing problem, all you electrical wizards.

I replaced the trailer light wiring today, and there is good news and bad news:

Good News- Flashers work
Turn Signals work
Outer Stop ( brake ) lights work

Bad News- Inner stop (brake) lights don't work
Nightime lights don't work
Side markers don't work

Tow CAR's headlights didn't work also because a Fuse blew when the headlight switch got turned on. We unpluged car from trailer, replaced blown fuse, and lights worked. However when connected back to trailer again, car and trailer lights didn't work again and fuse blew a second time.

So there's a problem with the white or brown wire. The trailer plug originally had a short white wire coming off it; I had previously attached this wire to the license plate of the vehicle, and all worked fine.

I had the brilliant idea to attach a long piece of white wire to the short stub, run it into the trailer and attach all the white wires from side marker lights and tail lights to it. Also, I connected this white wire to a trailer frame bolt as a 'trailer ground'.

So where did I goof? I guess I don't understand the principle of the white wire and 'grounding'.

Fran

Hi Fran,

It's clear that there is a short circuit to ground from your trailer's marker and tail lights -- that's what is causing the headlight fuse to blow.

You're right that white is often the ground, but sometimes people don't wire everything according to the standard code. I suspect that is the case here.

According to the chart I have, brown is often the right turn/stop light. I don't know why you mentioned the brown wire ....

Anyway, what I would do is carefully inspect each marker, tail, and any other lights or circuits that are connected to the "running lights" circuit of your trailer plug -- on mine that's the green wire. You want to be sure there is no short to ground at each of these lights.

If you have a good ohmmeter you should be able to find the short circuit without blowing any more fuses.

I'm sending you a PM with my phone number as well.

Thanks a lot, Dana for your reply.

I do have an Ohm meter. What do I set it to?

I just visually checked wire connections and side marker lights. There is one side light that does not match the others; it must have been a replacement. It has 2 bulbs in it and is wired a bit differently than the rest. Other than having 4 wires connected to eachother at the tail lights (3 browns and one black), the connections looked good.


Thanks for your help!

Fran

You want to measure resistance in this case, so you set it to Ohms. That will either be the word Ohm or an Omega symbol or the word "resistance." A reading of Zero means all is clear. Anything higher than that is resistance of whatever amount.

Raya

Hi Fran, when I answered your post last night I wasn't as awake as I thought I was.

There is another possibility: the running lights circuit of your tow vehicle cannot run the additional load of the running lights of your trailer.

I wanted my connector to match U-Haul's standard because I rent their trailers from time to time. Their standard is as follows:
White - ground
Green - running lights
Red - left turn/stop
Brown - right turn/stop

My tow vehicle, a Toyota Camry, uses 3 circuits where U-Haul uses two -- the Camry has left turn, right turn, and brakes. So I needed to buy a converter box that would map the three circuits of the Camry into the two circuits (left turn/stop and right turn/stop) of U-Haul's layout. I puposely bought a box that "amplified" the circuits because the Camry uses light-gauge wires that are adequate for its own lights but not for an additional load. This same box also "amplifies" the running lights circuit.

You can get these boxes at U-Haul which is instant gratification 7 days a week, many RV places, or online at places like etrailer.com. I got mine at etrailer at the same time I bought the hitch. I'm not sure anymore which one I bought, but it may well be the one shown here: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118130.htm

The fact that the standard trailer connection (as defined by U-Haul) uses combination turn/stop lights also explains why you do not get anything for your central brake light -- it needs to be a separate circuit.

HTH, and you are welcome to call me.

Dana

I re-read your post again and realize I am not sure about something -- did all the trialer lights work when you had the white wire only connected to the license plate? Was the only change the connection of the short white stub to the white wires of all the trailer lights, and that's when the headlight fuse started blowing?

If that's the case, at least one of your trailer running lights is wired with the "hot" wire connected to its white wire, and its other wire is connected to ground. Check each of the running lights and make sure its white wire, as originally wired, is to the ground side of the circuit.

Dana

Well, progress is happening slowly but surely. Hooked up the gas appliances, turned it on and tested for leaks and it smelled of gas everywhere! Tightened up the connections and soap tested everything and it's good to go!
Fridge support cabinet was fun to work on, and fridge is totally secured; I don't know what was holding that fridge in place when I brought the trailer home, there was a flimsy enclosure for it, with rotty wood here and there. It still works on propane and 110V. It probably works on 12v too but it won't be connected to the battery because my car does not charge the battery and the fridge would quickly drain the deep cycle battery. BTW, the Dometic manuals are online and worth a read through.

Replaced pop-top mechanism with help from other Compact II owners - Thanks all!

The pop-top is next; hope to sew up new fabric and put the top back on next. My garage is way less cluttered these days, save for the pop-top, so on it goes.

Happy Restoring!

Francene

Forgot the 'before' and 'after' fridge photos; removed lots of rust, cleaned inside mold out, put in new cord and plug, primed and painted exterior. Also flipped door opening to face kitchen.

Whew! Glad it all works again.

Francene

Nice work!

Looking at the wall between the stove and the bed (on the driver's side), I'm curious: Does the Compact II normally have enough extra length/width for a little closet there, or are you making a "trotter box" for your feet to go in (where the last foot or two of the bed is in a nitch and the rest of the space is used for something else)?

Nifty, and I may have to copy your red 'fridge door insert. Did you buy something new to put in there, or paint something, or...?

Also, is there a special paint for the refrigerator guts, or did you use a basic, hardware-store type spray paint, or something else? I like the looks of that a lot better than the typical rusty ones. Oh, and can you tell how you prepped that area, with all the coils and what-not? How did you get in there and with what?

Thanks in advance for your time in answering any questions; watching you work is inspiring. If only I had a garage/shop..... :dreams:

Raya