Hi,
I 'WAS' using some pieces of 2 X 8 boards to level my trailer. One of the pieces went downward into a depression and flipped up as I pulled forward. It snapped the handle of the grey water pull handle and put enough pressure to crack the pipe fittings and I now have several drips that I have to fix for next year. Bummer!
I'll be buying those Lynx orange plastic stackable levelers that have their own storage bag for next year.
They look like they won't easily flip up and can be stacked and overlapped for a few heights!
I thought that I was doing the right thing and was clever and saving bucks! NOT!
If you are doing the same thing, make sure that anytime you are leveling that side with the plumbing (usually Driver's side!) that you are very careful. Or, like me, find a safer alternative.
Mike

This is my choice, no pulling back and forth, putting on blocks, removing blocks. Just park, stick the BAL leveler under the tire, lift to level. DONE.
BAL Leveler at Camping World

Donna;
I like it!
I did see this discussed a long time ago and had forgotten about it.
Since I had no problems before, it didn't occur to me to research it. It does sound like an answer. Now my wheels are at the load C limit of 1760 pounds so I wonder if this leveler will have any problem with that. It also does look bulky to store.
I'm going to search the forums and read up what has been discussed, but any further info on Pro's and Con's would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike .....>

Hi Michael,

The BAL Leveler is great and I love ours BUT a.) The screw requires grease which then gets over everything b.) 2. The leveler gets dirty (of course) c.) it takes up space.

The partial solution people have come up with is to store the leveler in a pizza delivery bag. It will still take up space in the trailer unless you could figure out a way to store it outside.

All that being said I would not camp without it.

I like that. Can it also be used as a wheel lock?
How much lift can you achieve?

Hello,
The Bal leveler works great, especially on a very uneven camping spot. Photo shows my Trill in
the last camp spot in a campground at Bryce Canyon this summer. The BAL leveler was at its
maximun elevation to get the trailer level. The other tire and the roller on the landing gear were chocked.
It would have been real tough to use this spot using boards as levelers.
Recommended+

Good Luck, Larry H.

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I've been thinking about using a couple of regular car scissor jacks as levelers on my Burro, it seems easier to fine tune the height instead of using 2x lumber. The frame is fully boxed, the rear bumper is pretty stout too. Any pros or cons about doing it this way?

I did what you are thinking of doing. I bent the frame and put door out of alignment. Be care full. The big stickies you see all have jacks on the four corners. They are not for lifting but for stablelising only.

Me too, everything Booker says...big, bulky, dirty, but would leave home without it. Setting up is so easy, lust pull into the spot, look around, feel good, then go ahead and level.

I made up a piece of 1 1/2" pvc the length of the all thread and the nut.
I glued a cap on one end and a threaded adapter on the other end.
I put a piece of foam rubber in the tube to cushion the nut and allthread when put in.
Then I put a threaded pvc cap on.
This solves the grease problem.

Bill K

Will it work on a twin axle (like a Fiber Stream)?

Thanks

I have a BAL Leveler and think it's great, much better than blocks. Just park the trailer and winch up the low side and the trailer gets leveled left-to-right and very solidly chocked into place.

I wanted a way to store it outside so the grease and dirt would stay outside, too. What I did was weld some corner braces to the frame under my 5er's loft:

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The bottom rail and top rail work together as a "dock" that the leveler slides in to when it's time to break camp and stow it for towing. The lock in the top rail slides through a hole in one of the leveler's wheel plates (which also has a notch in it so the hasp of the lock can be threaded through) and stops the leveler from sliding out and falling off while we're towing. The lock also keeps it from wandering off should some discount-minded passerby thinks it's available . . . cheap . . . while we're parked.

This solution is specific to a Scamp 5er design, but you could do something similar on a conventional trailer by welding a piece of large-diameter EMT conduit/pipe to either side of the tongue that you could tuck the arms of the leveler in to from above so it forms an arch.

wil it work on a 21' big foot?

Hi all,I called the company last year and was told the weight limit was 1800 lbs. I have to admit it seems to be the outside limit for the 2900 lb ,dry weight Bigfoot. We use it on both trailers (Scamp and Bigfoot) but the BF requires the low tire to be on a leveler block to apply and remove. The 15 inch tires will otherwise be difficult to "capture". I believe it only is meant for single axle trailers.
Tony and Darlene

The BAL leveler works great!!!
The only issue I sometimes have is trying to get it under the tire. I opted for 15" tires and if the ground is flat it slides under easily. We also dry camp in remote places that are usually dirt, rocks and generally uneven ground. In those conditions it can be a bear to slide past the tire. I have resorted to using my trusty shovel a few times to 'clean' out the high points on the ground. Yes it does require grease on the threads but it just sits in the back of my pickup when driving so it's not an issue for us. I like the pizza bag idea though........!!!

Overall it works very well.

I have the Bal leveler too. I have a very hard time getting it around the tire. I have given up more than once. Yes, shoveling under the sides of the tire would do the trick, but this ole lady is not going to shovel the ground just to get the Bal Leveler around the tire. It needs to be made just a wee bit wider to fit around the tire more easily.
It is a great invention, but not wide enough.

I use those yellow"Lego-like" blocks without a problem. I can always guess close, so I have never had to reposition more than once.
I looked at the bal leveler and I think it is a great product, but I just can't justify carrying it around ...maybe if someone offered one that broke down to a smaller package??

A comment about the above discussion about the weight restriction to 1800 pounds as a limiting factor. Remember, you are only lifting one wheel. The other wheel is still upon the ground taking at least half the trailer weight or more so it could be used quite easily on a 3000 pound plus trailer.

I took two pieces of rough hewn, 2" thick, western red cedar left over from an Inuit paddle project and made a ramp. I can run up on it to first level for 2" rise or to the next level for an additional 2" rise. That's all I have ever needed. Lightweight, compact, smells good, easy to store. The second piece is screwed to half the first, bottom piece, 18" or so overall length.

I use one of these.

Karen

These all look like good options but none of the options look like they would work with tandem wheels. Has any one got solutions for those of us with tandems?

I carry a 10 - 2x6's at 12" long. This way I have enough to use at least one per stabilizer, and have up to 6 for leveling under the wheels. I did chamfer the top sides on the ends to assist in pulling the trailer up on the tires on the side needing elevating.

My trailer has tandem axles. I have been using this method without incident for many years now. I am not a cheapskate, but when I looked at the price of the plastic stacking blocks, I could not possibly substantiate the cost.

I, too, love the BAL - even though it is heavy (but mine came in a box which has held up well for several years now - cuts down on the mess).
The best tip for the BAL -
on uneven ground (for getting it under the tire)
- drive onto a block to raise the tire a little bit first
or sand (after the BAL has dug down into the sand for several days)
- put a block under the tire before letting the BAL down

I've used this several times - no digging, no stress

and no going back and forth and back and forth

I met some people who sold their Bal Leveler because they felt their 17.5' Bigfoot was too heavy for it.

One thing I like about the BAL leveler, is it's something I can use completely by myself. I tried the blocks and more times than not drove the trailer tire completely over it. Sure, you could put several down in a row, but with the BAL it doesn't matter where I park, I can always level the trailer quickly.

Thanks for the tip about driving the trailer up onto a piece of wood and then using the Bal leveler. I was thinking I might try that. Sounds like plan :-)

The packaging has a statement that it is for single axle trailers only. I would think that you'd need 2 placed side-by-side if you were trying to raise a double axle trailer, and you'd have to crank the screws up together. I'm not sure there is room enough... (axles spaced far enough apart)

I have 2 sets of the 10 pack yellow plastic blocks. I rarely need to use more than 1 set, but sometimes I need more to raise up the stabilizing jackstands in addition to those under the tires.

If my memory is not failing me this topic has been discussed previously. I use Lynx blocks with Lynx stop.

1. Drive on the final parking site.

2. Measure side to side trailer tilt angle using digital level.

3. Use simple cheat-sheet to get lift height from the angle.

4. Build the Lynx structure for including Lynx stop (Bigfoot 21 double axles).

5. Drive on and stop on the stop.

George.