Just got back from my first NOG, which commenced at Stub Stewart State Park, Oregon. Had a great time meeting folks from this forum and showing off my work on my Scamp.
I picked up this 1988 this past June. It was in relatively good shape, but I wanted to make it uniquely mine. Here are a few pics of the upgrades and changes I've made. Please feel free to comment or ask questions, if you have any. Cheers!
Full Version: My 13' Scamp remodel
FiberglassRV > All About Our Unique Little Molded Fiberglass Trailers > Modifications, Alterations and Neat Updates
Interesting design! Really sharp looking!
CindyL
CindyL
Very Nice! Thanks for posting pic's......................
Wow, neato! 
Wish I could have seen your Scamp in person (oops, on the wrong coast).
Now I'm full of questions
1) [Edit on this first one: Oopsie, I see you did have a photo of the whole front; I missed it in the excitement of oohing and aahing over your Scamp] Could you post a photo looking towards the front of the trailer from the dinette, if you get a chance? I'd love to see the big picture of what you've done at the front and, and how it looks over in the left corner too. [I still would love to see that corner where the kitchen meets the front cabinets. How do you use the space in that corner?
2) What is the material you used for the backsplash (aluminum? stainless?) and where did you get it. I'd like to add a backsplash, and had been thinking along those lines, but got a bit bogged down when Internet shopping for it.
3) For the upper front end cupboard, did you add a thin wood veneer to an existing fiberglass cupboard? It looks neat. What wood did you use and how did you attach it? Same for the dinette bench fronts.
Nifty, nifty
Raya
Wish I could have seen your Scamp in person (oops, on the wrong coast).Now I'm full of questions
1) [Edit on this first one: Oopsie, I see you did have a photo of the whole front; I missed it in the excitement of oohing and aahing over your Scamp] Could you post a photo looking towards the front of the trailer from the dinette, if you get a chance? I'd love to see the big picture of what you've done at the front and, and how it looks over in the left corner too. [I still would love to see that corner where the kitchen meets the front cabinets. How do you use the space in that corner?
2) What is the material you used for the backsplash (aluminum? stainless?) and where did you get it. I'd like to add a backsplash, and had been thinking along those lines, but got a bit bogged down when Internet shopping for it.
3) For the upper front end cupboard, did you add a thin wood veneer to an existing fiberglass cupboard? It looks neat. What wood did you use and how did you attach it? Same for the dinette bench fronts.
Nifty, nifty
Raya
The outdoor shower head is very cool. Does it get hot water, as well?
I think I'm in LOVE! 
Very nice, Robert! Like that porta potty cabinet, with the hinged cover.
I had a few of the same questions Raya had, so I'll see what you say.
Like the woodworking!!
Great job!
Fran
74 Compact II
I had a few of the same questions Raya had, so I'll see what you say.
Like the woodworking!!
Great job!
Fran
74 Compact II
You have a geeat tug too!
Great re-do! It's got to give you a satisfied feeling.
How much extra weight is on the door? Sure gives it a finished look along with the new cabinetry. How did you hinge those long doors over the kitchen to keep them from sagging? Or do they open vertically
Jim?
How much extra weight is on the door? Sure gives it a finished look along with the new cabinetry. How did you hinge those long doors over the kitchen to keep them from sagging? Or do they open vertically
Jim?
Very nice! How much weight did your remodel add or do you know? Nice ideas, especially the door. How tough was it to install the window with the bulge? Scamp window or after market? I have an '06 with the front toilet only option so I'm not sure where I could put a hotwater heater. Pull mine with an 03 Honda Element with add ons for the chore so need to seriously watch the weight.
Thanks all for the replies. This is my first attempt at any of this work on a trailer, so I'm sure to have made more than a few mistakes. So, in response to some queries, here are a few more details about my upgrades I thought would work best for us.
About the exterior:
1) Evidently, the previous owner used the trailer as a "guest room" of sorts, leaving it parked fully exposed to twenty years of, well, exposure. When I got it, the gel coat was beyond re-polishing, so I opted to have it professionally painted to match my Bronco. I yanked out all of the windows, and removed all the trim and running lights, etc. I replaced all of the external water and electrical hardware connectors with new.
2) Upgraded the axle in order to get brakes, nifty 15" wheels, and a better looking stance. (Tows great!)
3) Replaced the original receiver hitch with a beefier 2" set-up. This required an upgrade to the tongue jack.
4) The PO had cut a big hole into the curbside and stuffed in a household A/C unit. Looked terrible and not what I wanted. I yanked it out, and, with some fiberglass customizing to the wheel well, replaced it with an Atwood 6-gallon hot water heater. (You've seen the new outside shower which is directly above the water heater and just below my porch light.)
5) Just in case they might come in handy, I added both 120v and 12v power "plugs" towards the rear of the curbside shell.
6) The new Dometic refrigerator has an access panel and "breather" vent (with two small fans behind for added circulation) on the roadside.
7) Maybe my proudest accomplishment was repairing the warp to my entry door. After stripping off the original "rat fur", a few kerf cuts with a Skil saw to the lower half, some straps and new fiberglass, I was able to snug up a 1.5" gap at the bottom of the door. Fits perfectly now. And to continue my wood-panel theme on the interior, I added a thin veneer, dressing things up. (Jeff: the door window is the stock/original window. No big deal to remove and re-install.)
I'll talk about the interior in my next post.
About the exterior:
1) Evidently, the previous owner used the trailer as a "guest room" of sorts, leaving it parked fully exposed to twenty years of, well, exposure. When I got it, the gel coat was beyond re-polishing, so I opted to have it professionally painted to match my Bronco. I yanked out all of the windows, and removed all the trim and running lights, etc. I replaced all of the external water and electrical hardware connectors with new.
2) Upgraded the axle in order to get brakes, nifty 15" wheels, and a better looking stance. (Tows great!)
3) Replaced the original receiver hitch with a beefier 2" set-up. This required an upgrade to the tongue jack.
4) The PO had cut a big hole into the curbside and stuffed in a household A/C unit. Looked terrible and not what I wanted. I yanked it out, and, with some fiberglass customizing to the wheel well, replaced it with an Atwood 6-gallon hot water heater. (You've seen the new outside shower which is directly above the water heater and just below my porch light.)
5) Just in case they might come in handy, I added both 120v and 12v power "plugs" towards the rear of the curbside shell.
6) The new Dometic refrigerator has an access panel and "breather" vent (with two small fans behind for added circulation) on the roadside.
7) Maybe my proudest accomplishment was repairing the warp to my entry door. After stripping off the original "rat fur", a few kerf cuts with a Skil saw to the lower half, some straps and new fiberglass, I was able to snug up a 1.5" gap at the bottom of the door. Fits perfectly now. And to continue my wood-panel theme on the interior, I added a thin veneer, dressing things up. (Jeff: the door window is the stock/original window. No big deal to remove and re-install.)
I'll talk about the interior in my next post.
As I said in my previous post, when I found this Scamp, it looked like it hadn't been moved in years. But remarkably, the interior was in pretty good shape. The "rat fur" walls were decent, and the cushions and upholstery were great. All just needed a thorough cleaning.
Not so good were the fiberglass furniture modules. The aft benches were fine, but all three overhead cabinets, the galley unit, and the front bench had each been badly/carelessly modified by screw-in "additions" (fans, cassette player, paper plate holder, etc.) or extra cut-outs of one kind or another. I thought I could cover the damage with thin panels of relatively inexpensive plywood (3/8" "Euro" or Baltic Birch 7-ply).
But as I got into it, I realized that the galley and front bench were beyond repair and I would have to remake them completely. This presented the opportunity to redesign and reconfigure the front half—to create more storage and better use of the space by my wife and me.
So, here are some details about the work on the interior.
1) I drilled out all of the hold-down rivets and removed all of the furniture modules from the inside.
2) I removed the existing carpeting, the 10-gallon water tank, and trashed all of the original plumbing.
3) I cleaned and prepped the existing subfloor, then painted it with a quality two-part epoxy paint. I wanted a good and dependable waterproof seal on the subfloor just in case I had any water issues later on.
4) I next inspected, repaired, rewired, and wired anew for all of my electrical needs—both 120v and 12v—and including a new converter. Likewise, I ran new PEX water lines to accommodate all my future hot and cold plumbing. (More on all of the mechanical details in a following post.)
5) My aft benches, and front and back overhead cabinets were dressed up with plywood panels—hiding the damage and scars made by the PO. New doors, hinged horizontally with piano hinges, went onto the uppers. (The idea to use "holes" instead of cabinet pulls came from my brother's sailboat!)
6) The single floor-to-ceiling vertical cabinet (fairly standard with most 13-footers) on the curbside came next. Inside this cabinet is where the new hot water heater, outside shower plumbing, and "Wave-3" radiant space heater would be housed. I had to do some customizing here to keep everything tidy.
7) The new Dometic 1.9 cu.in. fridge required that I cut openings in the shell for access and ventilation. Just as important, was designing and building a thermal "shroud" which keeps the ambient room temperature from affecting the cooling function of the fridge. Sheesh!
8) Now came the really hard part: what to do with the galley and front bench area? I considered trying to design a front dinette, but decided I'd rather have the space for storage. Since switching the original table set-up in back into the bed is easy (and I'm not tired of it yet) the front dinette was not imperative.
In front, the Scamp is built with two sturdy, wooden, side-to-side horizontal "braces," glassed permanently right into the shell. These provide wall-side support to the front bench and an optional upper bunk. But in my case, they were just in the way. I had to design and build around them. The lower brace I could hide behind the cabinets and use as a shelf bracket. For the upper brace, I built a box to shape that surrounds the brace, and creates a nice shelf under the front window. This also provides anchoring points for the new cabinetry below. My wife sewed the cowhide cushion that covers the potty hideout...
9) The galley countertop is 3/4" Birch ply, laminated with white Formica. (As is the fold-down table in back.) I found (thanks to someone on this Forum) a SMEV stainless steel cooktop/sink combo pretty cheap on EBay. The swiveling faucet is a bathroom fixture from IKEA.
10) Many have asked about the stainless steel backsplash. This was a functional choice for two reasons: besides working as any backsplash does, the metal panel also hides the one area of original "rat fur" that was in dismal condition. I found a fabricator here in my town to cut it to size as well as the window opening. I got a second piece to use for my fridge door. Simple. Looks great.
IMHO, the dark wood doors that typically come stock with many of these trailers are all wrong. Keeping the wood color on the light side works better with the white gelcoat/fiberglass modules, and keeps everything inside looking brighter. Also, you can see that I prefer to keep the design of the wood work very straightforward and simple. Such a small space demands clean lines and a minimum amount of ornamentation.
Here are a few more pics to illustrate some of my notes above.
Not so good were the fiberglass furniture modules. The aft benches were fine, but all three overhead cabinets, the galley unit, and the front bench had each been badly/carelessly modified by screw-in "additions" (fans, cassette player, paper plate holder, etc.) or extra cut-outs of one kind or another. I thought I could cover the damage with thin panels of relatively inexpensive plywood (3/8" "Euro" or Baltic Birch 7-ply).
But as I got into it, I realized that the galley and front bench were beyond repair and I would have to remake them completely. This presented the opportunity to redesign and reconfigure the front half—to create more storage and better use of the space by my wife and me.
So, here are some details about the work on the interior.
1) I drilled out all of the hold-down rivets and removed all of the furniture modules from the inside.
2) I removed the existing carpeting, the 10-gallon water tank, and trashed all of the original plumbing.
3) I cleaned and prepped the existing subfloor, then painted it with a quality two-part epoxy paint. I wanted a good and dependable waterproof seal on the subfloor just in case I had any water issues later on.
4) I next inspected, repaired, rewired, and wired anew for all of my electrical needs—both 120v and 12v—and including a new converter. Likewise, I ran new PEX water lines to accommodate all my future hot and cold plumbing. (More on all of the mechanical details in a following post.)
5) My aft benches, and front and back overhead cabinets were dressed up with plywood panels—hiding the damage and scars made by the PO. New doors, hinged horizontally with piano hinges, went onto the uppers. (The idea to use "holes" instead of cabinet pulls came from my brother's sailboat!)
6) The single floor-to-ceiling vertical cabinet (fairly standard with most 13-footers) on the curbside came next. Inside this cabinet is where the new hot water heater, outside shower plumbing, and "Wave-3" radiant space heater would be housed. I had to do some customizing here to keep everything tidy.
7) The new Dometic 1.9 cu.in. fridge required that I cut openings in the shell for access and ventilation. Just as important, was designing and building a thermal "shroud" which keeps the ambient room temperature from affecting the cooling function of the fridge. Sheesh!
8) Now came the really hard part: what to do with the galley and front bench area? I considered trying to design a front dinette, but decided I'd rather have the space for storage. Since switching the original table set-up in back into the bed is easy (and I'm not tired of it yet) the front dinette was not imperative.
In front, the Scamp is built with two sturdy, wooden, side-to-side horizontal "braces," glassed permanently right into the shell. These provide wall-side support to the front bench and an optional upper bunk. But in my case, they were just in the way. I had to design and build around them. The lower brace I could hide behind the cabinets and use as a shelf bracket. For the upper brace, I built a box to shape that surrounds the brace, and creates a nice shelf under the front window. This also provides anchoring points for the new cabinetry below. My wife sewed the cowhide cushion that covers the potty hideout...
9) The galley countertop is 3/4" Birch ply, laminated with white Formica. (As is the fold-down table in back.) I found (thanks to someone on this Forum) a SMEV stainless steel cooktop/sink combo pretty cheap on EBay. The swiveling faucet is a bathroom fixture from IKEA.
10) Many have asked about the stainless steel backsplash. This was a functional choice for two reasons: besides working as any backsplash does, the metal panel also hides the one area of original "rat fur" that was in dismal condition. I found a fabricator here in my town to cut it to size as well as the window opening. I got a second piece to use for my fridge door. Simple. Looks great.
IMHO, the dark wood doors that typically come stock with many of these trailers are all wrong. Keeping the wood color on the light side works better with the white gelcoat/fiberglass modules, and keeps everything inside looking brighter. Also, you can see that I prefer to keep the design of the wood work very straightforward and simple. Such a small space demands clean lines and a minimum amount of ornamentation.
Here are a few more pics to illustrate some of my notes above.
And finally, a few words and pictures about the mechanicals...
1) As I wrote previously, I've upgraded the receiver hitch to a 2" and replaced the tongue jack. I've beefed up the ride with a Dexter Torflex to accommodate 15" wheels and electric brakes. Upgraded to a 7-pin tug-to-tow wiring harness. Standard deep-cycle 12V battery power and 20# propane tank.
2) I've installed a 6-gallon Atwood water heater; an outside shower; new hot and cold PEX lines; and a Shure-Flo water pump. I'm using the original 10-gallon water tank, but I've replaced the filler port, plus both city water hose and sink drain coupling hardware.
3) I've added an American 20 amp converter, and rewired everything. Installed three marine-grade, low-voltage overhead lamps, plus 120V and 12V adapter power plugs (CLAs) inside and out.
4) Installed new "Wave-3" gas heater; ran new propane lines to that, the water heater, stovetop and 3-way fridge.
5) Dometic 1.9cu.in. 3-way refrigerator in custom insulated shroud, with 2 small computer fans to help circulate cooling air around heat transfer components.
6) Italian SMEV stainless steel cooktop/sink combo, with stainless faucet fixture from IKEA.
7) Potty.
I have to admit that, though I kept it in mind, I was not too concerned about the extra weight I've added with the new appliances and cabinetry. At least not for the moment. Also, I know my customization limits the trailer's use to one or two people. Though I was careful with the design and fabrication of the new cabinetry, I purposely chose not to use exotic materials or elaborate designs. I've tried to keep things utilitarian, but tasteful. Truly an exercise in form following function. And maybe hot water, an outdoor shower, or a stainless steel backsplash may seem extravagant, I'm confident that my wife and I will enjoy having them sooner or later.
Thank you for letting me share my Scamp "GetAway" project with you. I look forward to participating further online, as well as in person at the Fiberglass RV Gatherings yet to come. I'd be more than happy to offer what little I've learned with anyone else interested in doing what I have done. See you online.
1) As I wrote previously, I've upgraded the receiver hitch to a 2" and replaced the tongue jack. I've beefed up the ride with a Dexter Torflex to accommodate 15" wheels and electric brakes. Upgraded to a 7-pin tug-to-tow wiring harness. Standard deep-cycle 12V battery power and 20# propane tank.
2) I've installed a 6-gallon Atwood water heater; an outside shower; new hot and cold PEX lines; and a Shure-Flo water pump. I'm using the original 10-gallon water tank, but I've replaced the filler port, plus both city water hose and sink drain coupling hardware.
3) I've added an American 20 amp converter, and rewired everything. Installed three marine-grade, low-voltage overhead lamps, plus 120V and 12V adapter power plugs (CLAs) inside and out.
4) Installed new "Wave-3" gas heater; ran new propane lines to that, the water heater, stovetop and 3-way fridge.
5) Dometic 1.9cu.in. 3-way refrigerator in custom insulated shroud, with 2 small computer fans to help circulate cooling air around heat transfer components.
6) Italian SMEV stainless steel cooktop/sink combo, with stainless faucet fixture from IKEA.
7) Potty.
I have to admit that, though I kept it in mind, I was not too concerned about the extra weight I've added with the new appliances and cabinetry. At least not for the moment. Also, I know my customization limits the trailer's use to one or two people. Though I was careful with the design and fabrication of the new cabinetry, I purposely chose not to use exotic materials or elaborate designs. I've tried to keep things utilitarian, but tasteful. Truly an exercise in form following function. And maybe hot water, an outdoor shower, or a stainless steel backsplash may seem extravagant, I'm confident that my wife and I will enjoy having them sooner or later.
Thank you for letting me share my Scamp "GetAway" project with you. I look forward to participating further online, as well as in person at the Fiberglass RV Gatherings yet to come. I'd be more than happy to offer what little I've learned with anyone else interested in doing what I have done. See you online.
Very nice work Robert Johans. Looks SUPER.
Beautiful!
I just love the design! Any time I would prefer this over the design of a brand new Scamp...! Also, the Bronco looks awesome! 
Thanks so much for taking the time to share all of your work. It's so great to see photos and hear about your mods.
Could I ask how you attached your thin ply panels? For example the ones on the overhead cabinets and on the vertical surfaces of the dinette bench fronts?
Also, where did you find the thin Baltic birch ply? I felt like I'd seen it all over the place a few years ago, but then recently I tried to find some and came up empty handed.
Thanks again
Raya
Could I ask how you attached your thin ply panels? For example the ones on the overhead cabinets and on the vertical surfaces of the dinette bench fronts?
Also, where did you find the thin Baltic birch ply? I felt like I'd seen it all over the place a few years ago, but then recently I tried to find some and came up empty handed.
Thanks again
Raya
Breathtaking! As I say to my pre-schoolers: "give your brain a kiss!" 
Great work, it looks wonderful!
Hi Raya,
Thanks for your compliments.
The panels are affixed with both panel adhesive and small screws driven in from the backside. I picked up the plywood at a retailer here called Hardwood Industries. But I just did a quick Google and found other sources online. You may find a wood specialty shop near you, or contact a local cabinet maker and ask about his/her resources.
RJ
Thanks for your compliments.
The panels are affixed with both panel adhesive and small screws driven in from the backside. I picked up the plywood at a retailer here called Hardwood Industries. But I just did a quick Google and found other sources online. You may find a wood specialty shop near you, or contact a local cabinet maker and ask about his/her resources.
RJ
Hi, I sent a message earlier, but after thinking about it, I thought I'd post my questions here as well. First of all, I really enjoyed your renovation, congratulations and great job! I especially liked the way you did your door, and since the rat fur on mine is old & worn, I'd like to remove it. If you don't mind, Can you give me any tips on:
1. how you stripped your door, what you used, and how long it took?
2. how you mounted the wood to the door?
Thank you, and all the best!
1. how you stripped your door, what you used, and how long it took?
2. how you mounted the wood to the door?
Thank you, and all the best!
LED taillights...
Thought some of you might be interested in seeing my new LED tail lights.
The original housings from Scamp are 7" in diameter—and the biggest round LEDs I could find online are these 7" school bus lights. (Given the "curvy" shape of my Scamp, I much prefer the round taillights over the rectangular...)
However, I couldn't leave well-enough alone. I wanted lights that made a bigger impression, so I added a bit of my own customization. Note the flat "flange" ring that encircles the LED housing. This is a piece of white Formica painted a reflective red and affixed to the shell. Now I have taillights that are 8.5" in diameter!
Next project: custom bumper and tire carrier...
Thought some of you might be interested in seeing my new LED tail lights.
The original housings from Scamp are 7" in diameter—and the biggest round LEDs I could find online are these 7" school bus lights. (Given the "curvy" shape of my Scamp, I much prefer the round taillights over the rectangular...)
However, I couldn't leave well-enough alone. I wanted lights that made a bigger impression, so I added a bit of my own customization. Note the flat "flange" ring that encircles the LED housing. This is a piece of white Formica painted a reflective red and affixed to the shell. Now I have taillights that are 8.5" in diameter!
Next project: custom bumper and tire carrier...
In case anyone is interested, here's how my new bumper turned out...
Robert,,,,,,,do not be surprized if someone posts renos to the front of their
Boler 13 that look really familiar to yours!!
Your posts have solved all my problems!!
Except PROCRASTINATION. lol
Fred
Boler 13 that look really familiar to yours!!
Your posts have solved all my problems!!
Except PROCRASTINATION. lol
Fred
Thanks, Fred,
As you probably know, many folks have gone with a mini-dinette reno to the fronts of their trailers. But I wanted more storage, and as far as I can tell, my solution is unique. You are welcome to mimic my work. Glad to help!
As you probably know, many folks have gone with a mini-dinette reno to the fronts of their trailers. But I wanted more storage, and as far as I can tell, my solution is unique. You are welcome to mimic my work. Glad to help!
COOL Bumper, Robert! What's it made of?
Fran
74 Compact II
Fran
74 Compact II
QUOTE (francene @ Nov 21 2009, 11:20 PM) 
COOL Bumper, Robert! What's it made of?
Fran
74 Compact II
Fran
74 Compact II
Fran,
That's 2" tubular steel, designed and finished to match the bumpers on my Bronco.
QUOTE (Robert Johans @ Nov 20 2009, 12:56 PM)
In case anyone is interested, here's how my new bumper turned out...
Looks great!! I'm jealous that your trailer is so white and shiny! Really makes me see how much ours isn't!
Love your pictures!
Robert, I've been looking at your cabinet photo's and have a question on your piano hinges. The cabinet over the kitchen looks like the hinge is on the bottom, and the door rests open in the down position. I like this because you don't need anything to keep it open if the hinges were on top. If this is correct on your door, how did you put in your piano hinge to allow full opening of the door. If you install the hinge flush to the bottom of the door, I would think the door would only open 90 degrees before the bottom of the door would bind with the cabinet. You must have something going on that I cant see.
Was this the same trailer that was just up on eBay?
QUOTE (DannyH @ Dec 17 2009, 05:45 PM)
. . . I like this because you don't need anything to keep it open if the hinges were on top. If this is correct on your door, how did you put in your piano hinge to allow full opening of the door . . .
Danny, there are two ways you can top-hinge a door and still have it stay open. One is to buy cabinet hinges that are designed with a "dent" that keeps the door open. (You can find them at Lowes or Home Depot mixed in with their other cabinet hinge offerings.) The other is to make a door support from a cheap spring (also from Lowes or Home Depot) and two small eye hooks, like this:
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
QUOTE (DannyH @ Dec 17 2009, 05:45 PM)
Robert, I've been looking at your cabinet photo's and have a question on your piano hinges. The cabinet over the kitchen looks like the hinge is on the bottom, and the door rests open in the down position. I like this because you don't need anything to keep it open if the hinges were on top. If this is correct on your door, how did you put in your piano hinge to allow full opening of the door. If you install the hinge flush to the bottom of the door, I would think the door would only open 90 degrees before the bottom of the door would bind with the cabinet. You must have something going on that I cant see.
Danny,
You have described the mechanics of the hinge correctly— and indeed, I cannot get a full 180° rotation. But I come close enough.
It's kinda hard for me to describe in words, and I hope I got this right, but here goes: the barrel of the hinge is proud of the cabinet face by about 1/8" and the thickness of my cabinet door is 3/8". The difference is 2/8 or 1/4". So my door drops down (and binds) to within 1/4" of the full 180°.
In other words, based upon the height of my 6" doors, and if I've done the math right, my doors swing open about 176°. (Whew! That's more geometry than I've had to pull out of my hat for quite a while!)
Peter, thanks for the hinge idea. When closing do you have to give the spring a push from the side to close the door, or does pushing down on the door bend the spring enough to close. I found the stamped metal at lowes that you used and plan on useing a combination of roberts holes and your screen idea for the doors. My wife gets bruises so easy that cabinets without hardware in such a small place looks like the way to go.
Robert, thanks for the response. I understand what saying, I'm surprised that the door comes down that much. I did notice that your lower cabinet doors looked slightly pushed out, which must be from your proud 1/8" beyond the face that you explained.
Robert, thanks for the response. I understand what saying, I'm surprised that the door comes down that much. I did notice that your lower cabinet doors looked slightly pushed out, which must be from your proud 1/8" beyond the face that you explained.
I like KISS mods. One of the easiest to solve the problem of keeping cupboard doors in the up position I've seen was done by MichaelT on the CasitaForum. A simple notched piece of wood placed around the hinge. The wood rides inside the cupboard until needed, grabbed and placed... done.
Sorry, ya gotta be a member of CasitaForum to view this topic:
Cabinet Door Lift Mod
Besides being simple, it's free!
Sorry, ya gotta be a member of CasitaForum to view this topic:
Cabinet Door Lift Mod
Besides being simple, it's free!
QUOTE (DannyH @ Dec 18 2009, 09:24 AM)
Peter, thanks for the hinge idea. When closing do you have to give the spring a push from the side to close the door, or does pushing down on the door bend the spring enough to close.
To close the door you just kinda "bump" the spring with your thumb and the weight of the door closes it. I used the spring support idea on the original Scamp upper cabinet doors until we replaced them with "dent" types hinges on the new uppers I made last year. They work really well.
We considered having the doors hinge downward, by the way. Having them hinge downward has a couple advantages, like stuff that's fallen forward onto the door while you're towing not coming crashing down when you open the door. On the downside, doors hinged on the bottom tend to be at the perfect height to collide with one's forehead. We chose an upward swing . . .
Good luck with your doors!
QUOTE (Robert Johans @ Oct 11 2009, 05:11 PM)
Just got back from my first NOG, which commenced at Stub Stewart State Park, Oregon. Had a great time meeting folks from this forum and showing off my work on my Scamp.
I picked up this 1988 this past June. It was in relatively good shape, but I wanted to make it uniquely mine. Here are a few pics of the upgrades and changes I've made. Please feel free to comment or ask questions, if you have any. Cheers!
I picked up this 1988 this past June. It was in relatively good shape, but I wanted to make it uniquely mine. Here are a few pics of the upgrades and changes I've made. Please feel free to comment or ask questions, if you have any. Cheers!
can you tell me all about the shower? I'm trying to think of an optimal way of doing one that doesnt require 'shore' water. It looks great by the way.Thanks.
QUOTE (cyndi H @ Dec 27 2009, 04:28 PM)
can you tell me all about the shower? I'm trying to think of an optimal way of doing one that doesnt require 'shore' water. It looks great by the way.Thanks.
Lotsa places carry outdoor RV showers. I found mine at a local RV retail store. There are many options online as well.
I installed mine just below my porch light, with all the fittings inside my vertical cabinet. My 6-gallon hot water heater sits below the shower, below the belly band. The entire trailer was re-plumbed with PEX to provide hot and cold water to both the galley sink and the shower.
To answer your specific question, when not "hooked up", water is provided by my on-board 10-gal tank via a Shur-Flo water pump. (FYI: A one-way valve prevents city water pressure from back-filling my tank.) You must have an appropriately strong water pump to deliver enough pressure from the tank to the shower for it to function properly. And obviously, one 10-gal tank will not provide many showers, but as long as you have a ready "refill" source available, much bathing can be had.
EXCELLENT job! 
My favorite details is one of the littlest and that is the clock on the cabinet door. I assume you just drilled through the door, mounted the clock movement on the back, and the hands/numbers on the front. It's brilliant - I just might do that on mine too!
My favorite details is one of the littlest and that is the clock on the cabinet door. I assume you just drilled through the door, mounted the clock movement on the back, and the hands/numbers on the front. It's brilliant - I just might do that on mine too!
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