The last time we were camping something happened to the rear drop down leg so it no longer will extend or retract back to it's stored short length like it is supposed to. It works fine to get it to drop down from the rear bumper frame but when I try to pull or extend it seems like there is metal or something that will not let it move in any direction so I have to store it extended now.

Anyone familar with how I might fix it? I have thought about unbolting it to bring it inside to get a better look at it.
Thanks for your replies.

Mark.....
Mine has locked up already and it was from rust buildup inside the tube..... try taking a block of wood held up against the lower section of the leg and using a hammer against the block of wood "Gently" try to tap it back out to unjam it...... Don't bang it "In" as that will just cause it to get tighter.

Hope this helps
Joe

I hated those things and couldn't wait to get remove them from my Scamp. My suggestion is to douse it with WD-40 using a nozzle tube to get between the inside and outside tubes. Or do as I did and replace with something better!

OK, Donna.
Now that brings up the question... What's better.... With pictures, EH?

James, better is always subjective right? Depending on many factors, I've seen scissors jacks, BAL stabilizers and what I use... Wayne stabilizers, used very well. What I hated about the Scamp "stab jacks" is they were always dirty from road rash and after I got those dang things in position I had to go degrease my hands. I suppose I could have worn gloves, but chose to take them off altogether. AND, one side always seemed to be a partial hole off which necessitated using wood or lego blocks under one leg. Bah... hated 'em.

YMMV

I'm with Donna. I hate those attached spring jacks too. I could never seem to make them fit tight even using a board. I use adjustable stabilizer jacks and yes, it is two more things to store, but so much easier. The guy I bought my camper from said he preferred them and left them in the camper.

before you start pounding on it be sure the release handle is all the way down and that the tube is not twisted, then spray it with penetrating oil and strike it sharply on the bottom.
Better yet, swing the jack down onto a block of wood or something to apply weight on it, then step on the release or exercise it with the jack rod.
If none of this works , they are bolted on and only cost 15-20 dollars to replace.
the 13 takes the short one and the 16 takes the long one.

Is this what's stuck? It's only 15.95 to replace from link below. I use WD40 and mallet on mine when it gets stuck.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-TJ01RT.htm

I had a tent trailer (gasp!) with these, and I think the worst thing to do is grease them as ther is no way to keep road dirt off then. I would just work them till loose in the spring, and they were sort of ok for the rest of the year.

Our trailer didn't come with stabilizers and for a long time we used little jack stands that we carried around. Now we have a couple of small car scissor jacks. Some have permanently bumper mounted them. I was wondering what others have done. Always looking at new, different , or alternative ways of doing things.

James, if I was ever to do it again... and I won't with my current trailer, I'd go with BAL Telescopic stabilizers. I've seen them in action on the rear of Nancy's and Mike's 5th wheel and these things are slick. Since they work independently, it doesn't matter if one side needs to drop down lower than the other and when in the up position they're nearly flush with the frame, nothing to hang down and get hung up like welded on scissors jacks. They're not cheap, but I think it's a one and done solution No gloves needed and a 12 volt screwdriver with a socket makes speedy work to get them in place!

Leveling Jacks - BAL Telescopic on PPL website

My current setup uses one swing down tounge jack at each coner of the back bumper. I am very happy with this.

Thanks for your suggestions and help. I will try some wd40 Saturday. It seems like it is really stuck, I had already tried pounding on it so that will be a good test to see if a lubricant will loosen it up. I also had no idea they were so cheap (link to etrailer) so that will be another option. It might be a good time to think about other styles which have been talked about if I have to replace it.

I also have had the big hole syndrome on one side where the leg just isn't long enough even with a bunch of boards as well as the problem of not being able to get them tight to the ground. I've solved that problem at some sites by setting them down on boards and then raising the tongue jack to tighten them up. They can be a pain to use at un-level sites.

My problem is that I can't have anything hanging lower than the back bumper is now or It would get knocked off when I exit the driveway. Maybe I can add a flange to the top of the bumber and then fasten something outboard behind the bumper. Tired of carrying separate items for stufflike that.
Hmmmm! A 10 guage "L" bracket or better yet a "U" shaped piece, welded to the rear of the bumper and painted to match and it might look built-in. It's something to think about this winter.