I don't recall seeing anything on this in recent history. What sort of door seal does Scamp use from the factory? Our 13' has/had an open cell foam rubber strip stuck around the door opening. I don't know if that was original or installed by the previous owner. Due to the leading edge of the door dragging on it when closing, it had already migrated away from where it was originally attached in some places. We've never had a leak problem, but it just looked ugly. So I tried installing some foam weather stripping from Lowes that has a smooth sealed surface where it contacts the door. That stuff has migrated forward in some places also, until it's at the edge of the recess for the door. Maybe two strips applied side-by-side would prevent that from happening. This seems to be one of those "don't look too closely" things. I'm not sure the door actually touched the weather stripping in some places anyway, especially toward the bottom. We've never had a leak, but I would really like to make this look better. I know Casita uses a tubular seal attached to the door, not the body, which seems to work very well. It would sure be nice if Scamp did something similar. Ideas appreciated, or at least some comments on what sort of seal Scamp installed originally.

Thanks,
Parker

My 2009 Scamp has the open cell foam rubber strip also.

It has moved and come unstuck already in places.

Bill K

Go to RV items for sale in the Forum and look up the post on door trim. This is what some people are going with. The problem is when you order from Trim Loc they want to sell at least 100 ft. of trim. That is why the person has trim for sale.
Eddie

I use the copper pipe rubber insulation sleeves. They come in about 6 foot lengths at any hardware store are split to fit around the door opening and have the adhesive already set with peel off paper. Very easy to install and seals up the door even if the openings are irregular which most of them are. Added bonus is they act as "head bumpers"

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I used Self-Adhesive High Density Weatherstrip Foam tape for Doors and Windows (home). It's 1/2" thick x 3/4" wide and 10' long. It took two bags (with some left over). I seamed it at the very top under the drip cap. And bought it at Lowes

Donna,

That's the same thing I'm using right now. It looks like it should be the perfect solution, but on mine, the door drags on it when closing and pushes if forarward. I may try two pieces side by side, which would just about fill up the depression around the door area. Maybe if there is nowhere left for it to go, it will stay put!

Thanks,
Parker

Greg,

That's a great idea. I already have a piece to put across the top of the door (after I hit my head once). I don't think it would work on ours with the screen door. There is very little edge left to clip the sleeve around where they framed in for the screen.

Thanks for the idea, though. I'll still check it out.

Parker

Eddie,

That looks a lot like what Casita uses. I'm going to check a local body shop supply first, but may end up seeing if he has any left. Unless he's now restocking, all those replies must have surely used up his original order by now!

Thanks,
Parker

Perhaps the reason it's pushing forward is it's too thick? Finding just the right thickness can be problematic. I know the door hinge side on my Scamp door the foam is pretty smooshed and is nearly full thickness on the latch side. Maybe a different thickness on the hinge side vs the latch side is the solution? I'm going to rebuild the hinges this next spring with new brass and springs. I'm hoping that will help bring the hinge side out a bit. But even if it doesn't, the foam has been on the door for nearly five years and perhaps it just time to replace it anyway.

Parker
If you have a local pull your own part junk yard near by you may be able to find a seal there. Sliding van door or rear deck lid seals from a larger car may be long enough. One trailer I bought, the prior owner said that is where he got his door seal from. As Donna stated thickness on the RH side of the door may be a problem. You can help solve this problem by placing aluminum shims between the body shell and the forward half of the door hinges. One other issue also is once you move the door out your bottom gap may open up some.
Eddie

I bought door edge trim in black with a round gasket attached on the side here.........

http://mooreindhardware.thomasnet.com/item...ab?&seo=110

They sell it by the foot.

Hi,
I have the trim around the doorway that Brian shows but I was wondering what everyone uses on the bottom of the door itself. Mine seems to need about 1.5 inches wide and 1/2 inche in order to seal the bottom of the door to the camper or there is a gap. I tried the home window door seal but its too small and bunches and there is still a gap. I found something that mightwork on ebay but 38 dollars for 20 ft. Any help would be great. Steph

from Scamp http://shop.scamptrailers.com/p-439-foam-d...mplete-set.aspx

Foam Door Seal (Complete Set)

$8.00 (USD plus shipping & handling)

Quantity:

Product Description:
Kit contains enough 1/2" x 3/4" to do top and side of door and enough 3/4" x 3/4" to do threshold of door on Scamp trailers.
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This explains the sizes they are using for the door and threshold.

We really like the look of that and might look into it. Our door trim has also slipped down and looks funky.

I've re-applied the foam stripping from Lowes. This time, I put a second strip on the hinge side of the door. The recessed area around the door is just about thick enough for two, side-by-side. I also sprayed some silicone lube on the door edging. It has a pretty rough design, so I'm thinking a little silicone may help reduce the dragging on the seal. We'll see what happens. That foam insulation idea looks good too......

Parker

I did the same as Donna and have never had a problem at all.