12V DC Fridge in Outback - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2007, 08:27 PM   #15
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Yes but i forgot name.They said it was made in Europe and is very popular over there.I beleive Joe said its from one of the Scandinavian countries.
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:13 PM   #16
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The brands I know so far are Tundra, Norcold and Nova Kool. When are you expecting delivery BTW?

-KB

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Yes but i forgot name.They said it was made in Europe and is very popular over there.I beleive Joe said its from one of the Scandinavian countries.
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:52 PM   #17
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When i ordered it he said he was 3 months behind,so i would expect mid August.
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Old 06-01-2007, 01:53 PM   #18
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Tundra is a brand from Dometic, the Swedish company which is dominant in the absorption-type RV refrigeration market, as well as all sorts of other RV equipment. The Tundra refrigerators based on a Danfoss compressor (models starting with "T") are marketed by them for use in trucks, while the aborption-cycle line (models starting with "RM") as found in their RV product selection.

Waeco, which also uses Danfoss compressors and has been discussed in this forum before, is now owned by Dometic as well.

Perhaps the Outback 'fridge is a Tundra?
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:11 PM   #19
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My 2005 Trillium Outback has a NovaKool 2.4 cu ft fridge. NovaKool fridge.

The installation instrucitons for the fridge say "All single door Nova Koos require 60 square inches of total ventilation area." It is recommended that the vents are located a the bottom (30 sq inches) and at the top (30 sq inches).

As installed by Trillium, there is NO ventilation.

Curt
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:24 PM   #20
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Egg Camper uses a Norcold 12V DC0040, I believe.
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Old 06-01-2007, 06:12 PM   #21
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Curt, how well has the NovaKool worked for you without ventilation?

Incidentally, I've yet to see an egg with a 2cf absorption fridge installed as the manufacturer recommends. That is both adequate vent sizes and locations as well as baffling to concentrate ambient circulation across the rear fins as directed. In mild weather it seems fine but lots of folks report limited performance in hot weather, and many add one or more fans with substantial improvement. The Dometic installation manual actually recommends forced air circulation as an option.

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My 2005 Trillium Outback has a NovaKool 2.4 cu ft fridge. NovaKool fridge.

The installation instrucitons for the fridge say "All single door Nova Koos require 60 square inches of total ventilation area." It is recommended that the vents are located a the bottom (30 sq inches) and at the top (30 sq inches).

As installed by Trillium, there is NO ventilation.

Curt
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:03 AM   #22
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Works good up to about 90 degrees ambient. Then fridge temp starts climbing over 40 degrees rapidly. The problem is there is no ventilation provided for the trapped air. It just gets hotter and hotter making the fridge work harder and harder using more electricity. I am reluctant to vent it into the trailer because I don't have installed A/C. It needs to be vented externally, but I haven't convinced myself to cut the opeings and install vents. There is also a need to do something about the loose wires and water lines in the area. I kind of like not having large vents on the side of the trailer.

Curt
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:33 AM   #23
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Curtis:

If and when my absorption frig gives out I will probably replace it with one based on the Danfoss compressor, but I am astounded that yours continues to function well without reasonable venting. That heat has to go somewhere, and if it is not vented it is either trapped (with temperature climbing, or leaking to the interior of the trailer (pity the poor AC that has to work to overcome that).

Another concern is the working conditions, wear and tear, and energy requirements of a unit that has to overcome these conditions.

It would not surprise me, let's say, that Dometic would sell you a vent kit (check their on-line parts lists), which would probably include an upper and lower vent which could easily be installed for your unit. The good part is that the required inside vs outside sealing which is required for a gas unit would not be a critical safety item for a compressor unit. As has been pointed out, the installers usually ignore this requirement anyay, to our peril.

As for cutting into fiberglass, I have no qualms about such gross violence, but you might. However, if you vent it your refrigerator will thank you, and your electrical system will work a bit less hard.
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Old 06-02-2007, 11:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
My 2005 Trillium Outback has a NovaKool 2.4 cu ft fridge. NovaKool fridge.

The installation instrucitons for the fridge say "All single door Nova Koos require 60 square inches of total ventilation area." It is recommended that the vents are located a the bottom (30 sq inches) and at the top (30 sq inches).

[b]As installed by Trillium, there is NO ventilation.

Curt
I see this as a common practice when folks replace an Ice Box with a "Dorm Fridge" in a Vintage trailer.
If I were a I would think nothing of it.

My experience, however is otherwise.
This past weekend in Palm Springs, California, I had my 29 year old fridge running on Gas (most efficient & effective) turned up to MAX, and the largest 12 volt fan I could find exausting the hot air. I also run a FridgeCOOL Fan inside.


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The fridge just maintained 40* inside. It was 100* outside.
The last time I was there, I had the FridgeCOOL Fan but not the [b]exhaust fan in the upper vent, and the best it could do then was 50* in the fridge compartment.
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:40 PM   #25
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I think it's obvious by now that any refrigerator needs ventilation, since they are heat pumps and they need to pump the heat to somewhere. The propane-powered designs mix the heat pumped with the burner exhaust, so the destination must be outside, but with a non-combustion design, you have a choice.

The heating of the interior of the trailer by the refrigerator's exhaust may not be as bad as it may seem at first. After all, most of that heat came from inside the trailer to start with; the net addition of heat is just the few watts that the compressor motor is taking. If you put a lot of work into setting up a separate outside venting circuit, you are to some extent using the refrigerator as another air conditioner. In warm boondocking situations, could this mean excessive power consumption as the compressor runs more to push that heat to the warmer outside?

If I were to put a compressor-type refrigerator in my Boler, I might vent it outside because the vents are already there from the 3-way unit. If I were starting with an intact shell, I (personally) would not cut the holes, and would vent it inside.

Has anyone heard from Team Trillium / International RV why the Outback installation has no venting?
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Old 06-03-2007, 03:35 PM   #26
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Another option might be power venting the exhaust heat down through the floor to the outside. That could give the advantage of not heating up the coach while not putting holes in the shell (just the underside). IIRC that's an option mentioned in the Dometic manual, which also advises varmint screens.

-KB
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