1978 17' Boler Questions - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-04-2016, 01:37 PM   #1
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Name: Kurt
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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1978 17' Boler Questions

Hi everyone.

Brand new here. I have a few questions that I have seen some forum info on but wanted to seek people's opinions on.

1) my dometic fridge is shot to my knowledge. I would like something that runs off propane and plug service. Any suggestions?

2) looking a doing the cpu fan setup for quiet sleep ventilation. Anyone tried doing a conversion from solar/usb?

3) we are on the "wet" coast and wanting imput on prevention of mold during the winter. I've run the dehumidifier in the trailer after heavy days of rain but as it is not designed to be air tight the humidity justs right back up. Have tried the dry crystal system too but wondering if anyone had luck with anything else.

Thanks for your time!
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:22 PM   #2
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Welcome, Kurt!

Regarding the fridge, if you want something that runs off both propane and AC power, a 2-way RV absorption fridge is the only option I know of. Were you thinking new or used?

Now about humidity… Remind me... what is that again?… The best way way to control humidity in the winter is to come to Arid-zona!

Seriously, plenty of members in the North-wet will help you with that one. Most of the answers I've heard involve variations of the things you've already mentioned.

Happy camping!
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:37 PM   #3
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Name: Rob
Trailer: Boler
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Nice to see another wet coast person.

I am new here too. I bought my Boler sight unseen in Vernon BC.
Then the following weekend drove 4.5 hours up to pick it up.
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Old 07-04-2016, 11:02 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum!

Before throwing out that fridge, take it out and turn it upside down for 8-24 hrs and then back upright again for 8-24 hrs. Then try it again. BTW it can take quite a while to get cold, give it a few hours. If you smell ammonia or see yellow substance on the cooling unit assembly then its toast. You may get lucky!

Our fantastic fan had the blade let go so I installed a 230mm computer fan into it and it moves 160 cfm and draws .38 amps. works well enough for us. Also replaced the fan in the bathroom vent with a computer fan and is still working fine after 2 years
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Old 07-05-2016, 12:15 AM   #5
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Name: Kurt
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Thanks for the replys. I think I'm gonna wait on the fridge for the winter as we do wanna camp with it a few weeks this summer. I've had good success with it as an ice box.

I like the fan tastic fan install idea. Saw a few retrofit ideas to get the fan flush. Again kinda want to do the quick and dirty for now then do some more permenant mods this winter.

I really love the solar panel/led conversion to save on draw for when I'm off the grid. I have lots of ideas but a basic electrical/mechanical knowledge.

Any direction/thoughts people have are warmly welcome
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Old 07-05-2016, 12:53 AM   #6
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trailswest Campster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwideski View Post
Hi everyone.

Brand new here. I have a few questions that I have seen some forum info on but wanted to seek people's opinions on.

1) my dometic fridge is shot to my knowledge. I would like something that runs off propane and plug service. Any suggestions?

2) looking a doing the cpu fan setup for quiet sleep ventilation. Anyone tried doing a conversion from solar/usb?

3) we are on the "wet" coast and wanting imput on prevention of mold during the winter. I've run the dehumidifier in the trailer after heavy days of rain but as it is not designed to be air tight the humidity justs right back up. Have tried the dry crystal system too but wondering if anyone had luck with anything else.

Thanks for your time!
You can't keep mold spores out of the air, they are everywhere, but you can keep the concentration of them that develops in an enclosed space under control with a simple and practical measure that requires no chemical treatment, don't turn it into a completely enclosed space

I have not had any problems with mold in my Sunrader motorhome and it stays outside with no cover all year around in Seattle. The secret is to have some air movement, don't just close it up tight. I am sure you have seen how most boats have louvers on the cabinet doors to promote air circulation to prevent mold. I keep my roof vent just barely cracked open, rain can't come in but fresh air can. Otherwise I would have a concentration of mold spores that keep breeding, multiplying very much faster than rabbits, feeding on any dirt they can find. So the key to mold prevention is to bring in fresh air for an exchange of air which reduces the concentrated number of mold spores. I know it sounds counter intuitive to leave it open for some ventilation even if it is raining outside.

It took a long time for the housing industry to catch onto the fact that houses must have an air exchange in order to stay healthy. They ended up making them so airtight people began to have sick house syndrome. So nowadays they have those little vent ports on windows and bathroom fans on timers to pull fresh air inside and exhaust stale air to the outside. So the question is are you (meaning you in the collective sense) giving your RV sick house syndrome because you have made it pretty much air tight for storage by making sure there are no leaks? Did you forget to give it a way to have an air exchange?

If you look around in the marine supply stores you will find some small clam shell shaped covers for little vents. For use on RVs you do need to screen the opening. Even in the winter time with heat on you need a little fresh air coming in. And you can get something like these vents. http://www.defender.com/nicro-solar-vents.jsp
It is good to have one vent lower down (maybe a clam shell) placed on the opposite side of a vent in the roof. That will create an intake and a natural convention path up and out a vent in the overhead.

I have never needed to run a dehimidifier or use dessicant products, I don't have any mold and my FGRV does not smell musty because I know the secret, don't create a closed container with no air movement. It would not hurt to once in a while during storage time open all the doors and windows and let the air do a major overhaul all on its own. So now you all know...keep water out....let air move in, out and roundabout ...even if it is damp outside.
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:06 PM   #7
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Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: Boler 1978 17' 4" Earlton Ont Model
Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Welcome, Kurt!

Regarding the fridge, if you want something that runs off both propane and AC power, a 2-way RV absorption fridge is the only option I know of. Were you thinking new or used?

Now about humidity… Remind me... what is that again?… The best way way to control humidity in the winter is to come to Arid-zona!

Seriously, plenty of members in the North-wet will help you with that one. Most of the answers I've heard involve variations of the things you've already mentioned.

Happy camping!
Our original fridge is a 3-way absorption unit by domestic. 12v is only good from camp site to camp site, and keeping the already cold fridge going temporary. Do the main cooling with propane or 110v. Ours quit working with propane last year and just needed the pilot and burner cleaned and setup. Works good now.
12v uses a lot of battery power.
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:20 PM   #8
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P.S. if you ever need a battery not all agm deep cycle battery's are equal and the better ones come with a premium price but worth the extra hours of run time. Ours has a m31 size battery.
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