A/C Venting Question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-09-2011, 09:30 AM   #1
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A/C Venting Question

Ok, working on improving our A/C Mod. We did like so many of you have done and used a window mount A/C which can be installed/removed at will. The problem is I have difficulty lifting the unit in and out. By the end of 7 travel days last summer I could no longer lift the unit as it had become so water logged from all the humidity it must have gained 20 lbs. Even Hubby was surprised at how heavy it had become when I returned home and he went to unload it. Also this was not fun to do every night and every morning. So, I'm going to take another Mod idea from this wonderful forum! I have a floor to ceiling closet on the left front corner of my T@b. I'm going to find a handyman, carpenter, etc to cut my closet door and build a frame to install an A/C there like many of ya'll have done. My question is this, the closet is not on the side of the trailer like with the Scamp 13, it's on the front wall of the trailer. Can I cut a vent in the side of the trailer for the A/C or does it need to be directly behind the unit which in that case requires me to cut a hole in the front of my trailer and then figure out a way to cover the vent for travel. I dont need water/mud etc getting pushed up in there esp from my tow vehicle. Hubby thinks a vent on the side should allow the heat to escape but if not we can install a small cooling fan to direct the heat from the back of the A/C to the side vent.
The drain will probably be a pan under the unit with some sort of hose/tube going down and out the bottom of the trailer. What do you seal the hole with where the drain tube exits? Caulk, Tar, bubble gum???

As always any thoughts, ideas, suggestions are welcome. Now that we have the bunk issue solved I feel better about making mods to fit our needs.

Thanks!

Melissa
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:03 AM   #2
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pictures of area inside/outside would be helpful. Are you talking about the closet next to kitchen? which T@b layout do you have, can you copy that from the T@b brochure?
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:23 AM   #3
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Question Have you checked a factory AC installation?

T@B Brochure

The factory does not put their A/C IN the closet, they put it on the floor in FRONT of the closet facing the side and build a cabinet around it. One unit I looked at had extended the seating by placing an extra cushion on top.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:25 AM   #4
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Hi Jim! I have the original Tab, the T1 U-Shape floorplan. Scroll about half way down this brochure and it shows the photos and a little farther down the floorplan. Mine obviously doesnt have the Cool Cat A/C/Heatpump so I have a closet that goes all the way to the floor so that is where I want to put an A/C. Is this what you needed?

http://www.tabownersclub.com/wp-cont...ByT@B_2011.pdf

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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
pictures of area inside/outside would be helpful. Are you talking about the closet next to kitchen? which T@b layout do you have, can you copy that from the T@b brochure?
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:42 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by melissab View Post
Hi Jim! I have the original Tab, the T1 U-Shape floorplan. Scroll about half way down this brochure and it shows the photos and a little farther down the floorplan. Mine obviously doesnt have the Cool Cat A/C/Heatpump so I have a closet that goes all the way to the floor so that is where I want to put an A/C. Is this what you needed?

http://www.tabownersclub.com/wp-cont...ByT@B_2011.pdf
If you put it in the closet on the floor you are going to have to install it sideways with the exhaust out the side wall and your cool air will need to be diverted 90 degrees back into the trailer. A simpler method would be installing it like the CoolCaT under the round window and build a bench over it for sitting or a night table. That way the cool air will be directed into the middle of the trailer, the exhaust out the side and you will probably need a fresh intake vent from the bottom, sort of like a double walled box with fresh air entrance within two walls and exhaust out inside the interior wall. It is not that hard to do. I'd suggest a hatch cover on the exterior to open while in use and close when not in use to keep the bugs and cold air out. You can use a regular floor register for the intake underneath. If you need any hatch covers I have 2 I'm selling.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:13 PM   #6
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Hmmmmmmmm, ok. So a cooling fan directing the exaust from the back of the unit out a side vent would not be sufficient?

Before we could not consider the factory location for the A/C because I needed the floor space for my teen daughter to sleep but now that we have a bunk solution I can revisit that location. Great idea about a hatch cover, I always wondered how those outside vents kept bugs and unwanted air out. I'd love to know if the Factory Cool Cat is vented underneath. I may ask on my T@b group if I get desperate, LOL. This is beyond my expertise so will take all my gathered info someplace, dont know where yet, LOL.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:19 PM   #7
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The CoolCat is vented within the trailer but it is elevated off the floor and the return air surrounds the interior. If you do not encase your union then you will not need to put holes in floor, but you still need to encase the exhaust. The CoolCat's exhaust is enclosed in a shroud. another issue is the condensate, the CoolCats/T@b/T@da's were notorious for having the condensate leak over the floor while traveling. You have to tilt your unit so that it will drain outside and not collect inside. You may be able just to route a tube if the unit has a built in pan for the condensate.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:43 PM   #8
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Oh wow, leaks all over the floor would not make me a happy camper! LOL. I saw a post that was several years old on a For Sale Board for a T@b that had a window unit installed in one of the cabinets. They didnt say which cabinet and had no pix but they did say a dealer did it for $150. I tried emailing them to see if I could get details but the email addy was no longer valid. If side venting isnt an option I could vent it out the front of the T@B and use a cover when not in use. Then the A/C would face into the middle of the trailer. This seems like an easier solution then having to build a cabinet (which I'd have to hire somebody), venting it through the floor etc. I remember seeing pix of a Scamp closet install where they built a drain pan and used a pipe (hose?) to drain the pan out the bottom. I so wish some of you talented folks lived closer so I could hire you to do the bunk build and A/C Mod. Am I correct in thinking the closet install would be simpler?
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:17 PM   #9
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Melissa

I would mount the unit where the factory one would go and then build around it.
You can get any wood needed cut for you at Home Depot or Lowes with some precision and I am sure you can handle the build-in if seeing the AC in Window action is any indicator?
You may not even need an entire box but just an extension of the top and face using the closet and existing bench as the sides?
I am guessing the extra bench would also come in handy t times too.

You need an air intake and exhaust that are separated from each other so you can take in fresh air and exhaust hotter air. There are lots of examples around that show this.
The easiest part may be the drain as you will have the AC on the floor basically and ca sit it on a pan of some kind that has a tube running thru the floor. Bubble Gum may work to seal that but I would use a good Silicone sealant myself,look at where the grey water hose comes thru and copy that.

A solid hatch is one way to go but Casita uses snap on Vinyl covers which should you decide to go that route could easily be fabricated by the countless Marine dealers in your area.
All of this could likely be done by one of them?

Just some more ideas.

Are the Bunk Pics you posted earlier of yours/ours or of the one you got the idea from?
I didn't remember the T@B having the dual hot air vents like i the pic but my memory is not what it used to be!

Ed
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:20 PM   #10
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melissa I'm new here, the other night, I googled 'Compact Appliances', small, portable ACs, fridges, ice makers,etc. I don't know, but a small 8-10-12,00 BTU, on wheels, with a duct hose,[like a dryer vent hose], and a slide open window thing w/4-5" circular cutout, fits in a window, hose attaches to the cutout, looked like a Great solutionn, to me. Remove and store away fall/winter, whenever it's not being used. I have no idea about your pricerange, etc., but it's a new one on me! Been reading TinyHouse Blog lately....If something like this isn't feasible in a small trailer, please warn me, because I'm going to Gibsonville, NC on nov.28, check out ParkLiners, and possibly put a down payment pre-order, and I'm new to RVing! [yep, I was up until 5 AM last night, reading april blogs about ParkLiner.......harry
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:24 PM   #11
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Parkliner Air Conditioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by harryjhere View Post
melissa I'm new here, the other night, I googled 'Compact Appliances', small, portable ACs, fridges, ice makers,etc. I don't know, but a small 8-10-12,00 BTU, on wheels, with a duct hose,[like a dryer vent hose], and a slide open window thing w/4-5" circular cutout, fits in a window, hose attaches to the cutout, looked like a Great solutionn, to me. Remove and store away fall/winter, whenever it's not being used. I have no idea about your pricerange, etc., but it's a new one on me! Been reading TinyHouse Blog lately....If something like this isn't feasible in a small trailer, please warn me, because I'm going to Gibsonville, NC on nov.28, check out ParkLiners, and possibly put a down payment pre-order, and I'm new to RVing! [yep, I was up until 5 AM last night, reading april blogs about ParkLiner.......harry


The Parkliner has an underseat air conditioner, a traditional home ac unit. You won't need an external air conditioner.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:36 PM   #12
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Leave it in, I left mine in and sealed it well with weather stripping, I did not have any water issues. Tips, don't use foams that can absorb water even if you think they are in a spot that won't get wet (like filling a hole under the AC and between the mount), they will transfer the water inside (I learned this lesson early and switched to a material that won't wick water) and I have since had no issues leaving it in.
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:11 PM   #13
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We had friends with a tab and he built a very nice tray that slid outside while they were parked, then slid in when they traveled. Sorry there are no pictures.
Wonder if he posted them on the yahoo tab forum years ago. I was across from the door.

Nancy
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:39 AM   #14
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Hi Ed! The main issue with mounting the A/C on the floor where the factory does is you lose the lower cabinet under the closet which is where the porta potti stores. If the A/C is sitting there you cant access that door. What T@b did in units that have A/C was move the porta potti to under the kitchen sink. I really dislike that idea as the shelf directly above the porta potti has all your kitchen wares, pans, dishes, kettle, utensil tray etc. The upper cabinets are mostly useless due to their curved shape. You can lay canned goods down and store very small items there but that's about it. The rear cabinets are curved too. I suppose I could turn the closet into kitchen storage/pantry and keep our clothes and utility box in the tow vehicle but it was nice having e'thing we needed inside the trailer. The porta potti wont fit under the dinette since the table legs do not fold away nor will it fit under the bench seats due to the furnace, Converter and wheelwells. I'd really like to install the A/C in the closet so I can keep my 5 foot long isle (It's the only floorspace I have) and not lose the porta potti home. I really wish I could have gotten a hold of the person who said they had a dealer install it in a cabinet out of the way. Those details would be priceless about now, LOL.

The Bed Mod I posted I found on the T@b group burried in a post. We have not done it yet and not sure when we'll get to it but it is #1 on the list! You're right "our" T@b doesnt have the double vents you saw.

That's an interesting idea about having one of our gazzilion marine places do some work. I had planned on that when I thought I was getting an Egg but dont know if they would work with aluminum.

Keep the ideas flowing!

Melissa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post
Melissa

I would mount the unit where the factory one would go and then build around it.
You can get any wood needed cut for you at Home Depot or Lowes with some precision and I am sure you can handle the build-in if seeing the AC in Window action is any indicator?
You may not even need an entire box but just an extension of the top and face using the closet and existing bench as the sides?
I am guessing the extra bench would also come in handy t times too.

You need an air intake and exhaust that are separated from each other so you can take in fresh air and exhaust hotter air. There are lots of examples around that show this.
The easiest part may be the drain as you will have the AC on the floor basically and ca sit it on a pan of some kind that has a tube running thru the floor. Bubble Gum may work to seal that but I would use a good Silicone sealant myself,look at where the grey water hose comes thru and copy that.

A solid hatch is one way to go but Casita uses snap on Vinyl covers which should you decide to go that route could easily be fabricated by the countless Marine dealers in your area.
All of this could likely be done by one of them?

Just some more ideas.

Are the Bunk Pics you posted earlier of yours/ours or of the one you got the idea from?
I didn't remember the T@B having the dual hot air vents like i the pic but my memory is not what it used to be!

Ed
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