An update from Lil Snoozy Land - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-26-2013, 03:06 PM   #57
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I'm thinking Alan may have been cross-thinking on the plug.

Bama had his upgraded in Texas to have it charging while in tow.
I don't think it will be a problem for me but I will eventually get the upgrade because it would be nice to know the battery would always be fully charged. If I had thought I would probably had it wired at the factory.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:11 PM   #58
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Maybe it's not too late to have it changed at the factory- the trailer wiring component is a lot simpler than that for the tow vehicle, and it sounds like yours already has that.

Francesca
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:18 PM   #59
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This is a post moving beyond brakes... I just have a question. Looking at the generator box in the picture below... is Lil Snoozy offering gel coat in something other than beige... like white?
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I'm thinking that would be a better option in color for some... OR... maybe I missed that announcement
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:45 PM   #60
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As far as I know, it's a one color fits all.......................lol.

I recall last year someone wanted theirs painted red to match their tow.
Seemed there was some difficulty getting anyone to do it and they didn't want to wait any longer than they did to start camping. One buyer had the graphics color changed to yellow to match their tow and it looked pretty good.


http://lilsnoozyclub-com.webs.com/ap...toid=171896782
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:50 PM   #61
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One buyer had the graphics color changed to yellow to match their tow and it looked pretty good.
That was Tommy & Linda: Sailboat Jealous of Snoozy I was only questioning the color of the gel coat because the first picture of the thread of this topic looks white to me.... gel coat is the easy stuff... why not offer white?
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:09 PM   #62
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Good question. May have to ask Alan when I pick ours up.
I like earth tones, so beige was good for me.

I think Snoozy #1 was more on the yellow side of the spectrum.
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:15 PM   #63
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Yeah, it was Kenneth Pangbun that tried to have one painted.

I wish! It turned out to be much more difficult than expected to find someone willing to paint the shell. We decided yesterday to take delivery of a snoozy without the custom paint because we are unwilling to wait longer. We should pick up our snoozy on July 20th.

We're buying a Lil Snoozy!
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #64
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White!?!?

One of the things I like about the Snoozy is that it isn't the same dreary, sterile white that everyone else uses. And as a coincident side note, I look with extreme disapproval upon Trillium Tom's decision to "go with that flow" with the second-gen Trilliums instead of the ivory/colonial white of the first-gen units.

On the bright side, though, I think I read someplace recently that Tom at Trillium's now offering custom paint jobs on new trailers...

Francesca
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #65
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Well, I'd sure like to know which it is- it must be a nuisance to have to unplug the trailer if you want to back it up an incline!
Unplug? If the wiring is missing a reverse signal for a brake lockout solenoid, it won't make any difference whether it is plugged in or not.

To disable the surge brakes so the trailer can be backed up without resisting - even on flat ground but especially up an incline - a mechanical lockout would need to be engaged in the coupler, such as a pin inserted in the mechanism to keep it from compressing the brake master cylinder inside. An alternative would be a manual valve in the hydraulic line, just like the electric solenoid valve but turned by hand.

This is certainly a nuisance, by either method. I have read that in Europe this would be illegal; that makes sense, because it would be really easy to disable the surge brakes and then forget to re-enable them before driving away.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:13 PM   #66
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As I said in that other thread, our Boler usually seems to be an anchor pulling on the Sienna on highway downgrades, but of course on steeper slopes and when needing to maintain a lower speed, something needs to hold the rig back.
I don't understand the "anchor" part of that statement- how/why does the Boler pull against the Sienna on downgrades?
Sorry, that might not have been clear.

The Sienna rolls much more freely than the Boler, presumably because the Boler has a massive frontal area and mediocre aerodynamic form. If the whole rig is coasting downhill at highway speed, the Boler has so much more drag than the Sienna that the Boler is pulling back on the Sienna - the force needed to move the trailer at that speed is more than it gets from its own weight and the grade. You can think of this as the trailer holding the tug back (like an anchor or drag racer's parachute), or as the tug pulling the trailer downhill. If you released the coupler, the tug would speed up (and if it didn't crash the trailer would presumably slow down).

My point was just that I generally don't need a lot of engine braking with the big thing in tow.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:49 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Unplug? If the wiring is missing a reverse signal for a brake lockout solenoid, it won't make any difference whether it is plugged in or not.

To disable the surge brakes so the trailer can be backed up without resisting - even on flat ground but especially up an incline - a mechanical lockout would need to be engaged in the coupler, such as a pin inserted in the mechanism to keep it from compressing the brake master cylinder inside. An alternative would be a manual valve in the hydraulic line, just like the electric solenoid valve but turned by hand.

This is certainly a nuisance, by either method. I have read that in Europe this would be illegal; that makes sense, because it would be really easy to disable the surge brakes and then forget to re-enable them before driving away.
You can say that again! Thanks for clearing up how it works.

Looks like that five-pin is the thing to hope for- though of course activation will depend on making sure the backup light function is wired into the tow vehicle plug, and on the right pin.

Francesca
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:51 PM   #68
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I asked Nick about backing up and surge brakes a couple of weeks ago. He indicated they had changed their brake lock out method. I think they are now using a free brake system lock out system. But don't take my word for it.
Eddie
Copied the rest of the post from someplace on the web.

The principle of surge brake operation says that the brakes will apply whenever the trailer "pushes" against the truck while in motion. The reverse side effect of this is that in reverse, the truck can "push" against the trailer also causing the brakes to apply. If for instance you were backing up on soft grass or mud, (or uphill) the trailer really doesn't want to back up easily, but must be forced by the truck. This is enough to apply the trailer brakes. The harder you try to force the trailer, the harder the trailer brakes apply. Trailer surge brake manufacturers deal with this in different ways:
  1. Use "Free Backing" brake assemblies on the axle that allow the brakes to disengage only in reverse. This is the most common method.
  2. Use an electric solenoid valve that allows the brake fluid to bypass back to the reservoir while in reverse. The electric valve is wired to the reverse lights on the tow vehicle. This ensures the brakes only bypass in reverse. This is the second most common method, usually seen on boat trailers more than other types of trailers. This system usually uses a 5 pin flat plug trailer wiring connector instead of a standard 4 pin electrical connector.
  3. Use a mechanical pin to prevent the surge actuator from compressing and building up pressure. This pin is supposed to be used when backing up only, but if left installed can prevent the brakes from operating-even if traveling in forward. This is a very uncommon method.
  4. Use a manual valve that bypasses brake fluid to the reservoir. It requires the operator to manually open the bypass valve when in reverse, but to remember to close the valve before towing in forward motion. This is also a very uncommon method.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:59 PM   #69
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So whatever ultimate method they use, how is deactivation...."activated"? Or are you saying that the trailer brakes just automatically stop working if backing?

Is there or isn't there an electric connection to the tug's backup lights????

Francesca
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #70
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I think it is just a mechanical release in the drum when you back up. There were pictures at the other site, I will try to find the link.
Eddie
Near the bottom of the page.
http://www.centrevilletrailer.com/ne...ootingtips.htm
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