Best all around sealant? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-18-2016, 04:13 PM   #15
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Name: Steve Robison
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No dirt. I like lexel but the down side is it cures very quickly. Once out of the tube, you get about 10 seconds to do any tooling. So if your one of those talented folks that can lay a bead of caulk that looks perfect out of the tube, this could be the stuff for you. If you're like the rest of us...... Comes in white and clear. Ace sells it in a small tube for about $5. Try it. Raz
Definitely not that good at caulking, I will have my wife smooth it right away following me as I caulk.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:36 PM   #16
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If you're close to any marine supplier check out their supplies! I love the selection, for every need. Mind you I live next to the ocean.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:48 PM   #17
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I know you want a one solution product, but I don't think I would use anything besides butyl tape for windows and vents. I've used lexel around the lights but when I redid windows butyl was my first choice. A while back a member sealed the butyl with a caulk to keep it clean. I'm not that ambitious but that might be a better solution. Just a thought. Raz
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:52 PM   #18
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I know you want a one solution product, but I don't think I would use anything besides butyl tape for windows and vents. I've used lexel around the lights but when I redid windows butyl was my first choice. A while back a member sealed the butyl with a caulk to keep it clean. I'm not that ambitious but that might be a better solution. Just a thought. Raz
There is butyl tape around the windows, I figured since I'm doing everything else I might as well add some caulking to the windows as extra protection. The windows don't leak or anything so we'll see, maybe I'll just do everything else and leave the windows for some other time.
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:00 PM   #19
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There is butyl tape around the windows, I figured since I'm doing everything else I might as well add some caulking to the windows as extra protection. The windows don't leak or anything so we'll see, maybe I'll just do everything else and leave the windows for some other time.
Actual the butyl is between the window flange and the trailer wall. If it ain't leaking, leave it alone. A little caulk on the butyl will make it look better but if it ever leaks, pull the window and reseal with new butyl tape. . Caulk around the window won't solve a leak. We have hundreds of stories of new owners removing caulk applied by previous owners . Good luck, Raz
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:49 PM   #20
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Listen to Raz. That's the best advice I can give.
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:20 PM   #21
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No dirt. I like lexel but the down side is it cures very quickly. Once out of the tube, you get about 10 seconds to do any tooling.

You got that right. I used a thin bead of clear Lexel on either side of an LED strip I installed under the awning. Started to gum up as I tooled it. Then I realized a bead more than a foot long wouldn't work because it was curing too quickly.



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Old 05-20-2016, 06:49 PM   #22
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Yes...Dicor self-leveling for roofs but the post wanted one general caulk for a fiberglass RV and they do not have roof seams and never leak ?
This is tongue-in-cheek, right?

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There is butyl tape around the windows, I figured since I'm doing everything else I might as well add some caulking to the windows as extra protection. The windows don't leak or anything so we'll see, maybe I'll just do everything else and leave the windows for some other time.
I know that window seals can leak. I had one on a fiberglass motorhome leak, but it wasn't leaking through the seal between the fiberglass and window, it was leaking through the rope seal on the automotive rubber seal. That took a different approach, NAPA #4121 windshield sealant. Black automotive-type seals can shrink with age, and the NAPA 4121 can be very effective at stopping that kind of leak.

The few window leaks I've had on trailers have been because the drain track (on sliding windows) got clogged, and the water backed up in the track and spilled over inside the coach. Before you go tearing windows out, run a piece of weed wacker line through the weep holes in your window to make sure they're free of debris and draining. The previous owner couldn't figure out why the top sliding windows were leaking (and rotted out the shelving) in my Class-B. He disclosed it, and had smeared silicone ALL around the seals... and it was that the weep holes had been plugged for fifteen years letting water run inside. They don't leak any more!
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:00 AM   #23
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It is not very hard to take out the sliding window pane and completely clean the drain channel and the weep holes. You need to pull out the U-shaped rubber piece that the pane slides in. Slide the pane part way and you can work on it more easily. When it is out, the pane can be lifted out. The drain system of the window frame is then exposed and accessible.
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