Best place to get hitch installed? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-18-2013, 02:56 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Anne H's Avatar
 
Name: Anne
Trailer: Escape 17 ft 2006 / 2005 Honda Pilot
Oregon
Posts: 465
Registry
If you're getting the electrical installed at the same time, make sure that they run a wire for your 12V to the 7 pin. I assumed that they would do this but they didn't.
__________________

__________________
Anne H and Fay Wray, the cat | Portland, OR
en Plein Air (2016 19' Escape; 2016 Honda Pilot )
http://rightbrainrightlane.blogspot.com/
Anne H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
You, personally, should obey the owner's manual to the letter. Even if the owner's manual says to tow at 45 mph maximum.
Actually Tom Subaru is a bit more generous than many other vehicle manufactures in that regard, they only mention to never exceed 45 mph "when towing a trailer in hilly country on hot days." They dont give any temps to indicate what they consider a hot day though.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
I've had a number of hitches installed by U-Haul and have been most satisfied with them.

That having been said:

None of those vehicles were anything near new, nor were any still under warranty. I think if I were to install a hitch on a brand new vehicle, I'd go with the factory unit if available, and have it installed either by the dealer I bought the car from or whoever they recommend. This in an effort to avoid potential warranty-related conflicts down the line. Not all aftermarket hitches will install exactly the same and as mentioned earlier, some may require modifications and even cutting of vehicle parts. This is not to say that an aftermarket hitch won't perform, but I've heard too many horror stories of warranty-voiding to take a chance on doing so on such an expensive vehicle.

There's also, at least in this case, the question of aesthetics- the factory hitch installation (below) for the 2013 Outback results in a much cleaner "look" than I think one would get with an aftermarket unit.

Also, per "upsizing" from a 1-1/4 inch receiver as suggested earlier:

The hitch below is 1-1/4, and rated for the vehicle's tow limit. In my opinion, there'd be no advantage in upsizing to a "bigger" hitch. This especially given the vehicle's hitch/tongue weight limit of 200 pounds, which limit effectively holds one's camptrailer weight limit at or near 2,000 pounds loaded (10% trailer/tongue ratio for camptrailer. I think the Outback's stated/advertised higher towing weight limit number relates to towing a boat, which can be safely towed with a lower tongue weight ratio than can a camptrailer.)



Image from: Subaru 2013 Outback research webpage- specs, options, colors, photos, and more

Good luck!

Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 07:31 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Jared J's Avatar
 
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
There's an advantage to 2" if you want a good bicycle or cargo rack, as stated above.
__________________
Jared J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 03:39 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Jared J's Avatar
 
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
Good for what they are, yes. Sturdy as a 2" one, not even close. Same with a cargo rack. I didn't find one that met my standards. My bike is a 29'er, it's 6" wider than my car, and not light. I've had three bikes on it at once, it won't so much as wiggle. I've even high centered my car on it, no damage.

Here's the bike rack, one of very few that are rated for rv use.



http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-R.../S64910-2.html

If a 2" hitch is available, there is absolutely no advantage to a 1 1/4" hitch.
__________________
Jared J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 07:04 AM   #35
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
True, but the 1 1/4 is not what I would be using. 2" is the way to go.
Attached Thumbnails
broken ball mount.jpg  
__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Not to put too fine a point on it, Dubya, but it wasn't the hitch but the ballmount that failed there!

What was on that puppy, anyway???

Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 11:05 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Good point Francesca!

Living in what many call the Mountain Bike Capital of the world I have put together a bit of a collection of bike rakes from over the years. Some with 1 1/4" some with 2" mounts, some worth their weight in gold some not so much. I actually need to do a garage sale one of these days! :-) Have found they all tend to shake, rattle and roll without some additional help and even then I never found a way to stop any of them from bouncing rolling around more than I would like. I also would not put any of them on the back of the trailer regardless of the rakes quality or hitch mount sizes or the weight of the bikes on the rake. By the comments made on this forum over and over, I know I'm not on my own in regards to that problem. I gave up on hitch mounts in part due to that issue & went with a roof mount rake. Subaru actually sells a pretty good system. The one I currently have which came directly from Subaru has actually outlasted a much more expensive 3rd party one I purchased for my last Outback.

For information purposes only here is what the OP's car manual reads in regards to install a hitch that does not use the attachment points that Subaru has in place from the factory (yes it is possible to install a perfectly good and safe hitch on an Outback without any additional drilling) here is what the 2013 Outback manual reads on Page 8-24 of the fairly large section on towing included in the manual. Both items appear in highlighted side boxes:

"Trailer hitches
WARNING
Never drill the frame or under-body of your vehicle to install a commercial trailer hitch. If you do, dangerous exhaust gas, water or mud may enter the passenger compartment
through the drilled hole. Exhaust gas contains carbon monoxide, a colorless and odorless gas which is dangerous, or even lethal, if inhaled.
Also, drilling the frame or underbody of your vehicle could cause deterioration of strength of your vehicle and cause corrosion around the drilled hole."

"CAUTION
Do not modify the vehicle exhaust system, brake system, or other systems when installing a hitch or other trailer towing equipment.
Do not use axle-mounted hitches as they can cause damage to the axle housing, wheel bearings, wheels or tires."

The above was obtained from Subaru.com
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 11:33 AM   #38
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Not to put too fine a point on it, Dubya, but it wasn't the hitch but the ballmount that failed there!

What was on that puppy, anyway???

Francesca
Bike rack with two, 25lb bikes. A Uhaul ball mount. Uhaul replaced the broken ball mount no charge.
__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Trailer:
Posts: 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Notice that it attaches securely forward in the vehicle which allows for good weight transfer from a load equalizing hitch.
This post is not saying 'right' or 'wrong', just throwing in some info from elsewhere. That CanAm hitch doesn't appeal to me much as a former structural engineer since it appears to put the biggest load (the rearmost attachment) on sheetmetal in the spare wheel well, rather than the frame rails (even unibodies have frame rails - they're just welded in).

So I looked up some fitting instructions for a Euro 'towbar' (=hitch) as under Euro law, these must can only be fitted onto mounting points specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Witter Forester 2013- towbar This is quite a different approach, requiring removal of the bumper and unusually putting the hitch inside the frame rails, coming out the back. Euro towbars don't use receivers which is why the last bit may look odd.
__________________
Andrew Gibbens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #40
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post
This post is not saying 'right' or 'wrong', just throwing in some info from elsewhere. That CanAm hitch doesn't appeal to me much as a former structural engineer since it appears to put the biggest load (the rearmost attachment) on sheetmetal in the spare wheel well, rather than the frame rails (even unibodies have frame rails - they're just welded in).
My Can Am receiver is similar. What you can't see in the image is rather large plates Can Am installed on the opposite sides of the sheet metal where the bolts go through. This covers a very large area which in the big picture is a substantial mounting point.

Note on my vehicle I noticed that the small frame rails were very inaccessible (the muffler obstructing one from view). I pointed that out the the Can Am fabricator. He said no problem. He then pointed out a couple options that he said were better anyways. With a trailer tongue weight of over 600lbs mine has worked great since installed seven years ago.
__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 01:51 PM   #41
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post

So I looked up some fitting instructions for a Euro 'towbar' (=hitch) as under Euro law, these must can only be fitted onto mounting points specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Witter Forester 2013- towbar This is quite a different approach, requiring removal of the bumper and unusually putting the hitch inside the frame rails, coming out the back.
I think this may be similar to the N.A. market factory hitch/installation for the 2013 Outback, at least in its use of the built-in "frame rails/tubes".

If I'm recalling his posts right, I do know per member Raz's description of his install of an aftermarket hitch on his Forester that it differs from Subaru's factory hitch in that the OEM uses some sort of reinforcers for the frame "tubes", while the aftermarket substitute does not.

Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 05:32 PM   #42
Member
 
dylemma's Avatar
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 45
Can Am RV... Really?

I just want to thank you all for your input and advise.

So I called Can Am this morning having pretty much decided to take the drive to London.
Well it turns out the hitch installation will cost me almost as much as I paid for my '75 Trillium.
So here's the scoop

1 - 2" Class 3 equalizing hitch system, installed
1 - 7 pin connector with brake control, installed
1 - Transmission cooler (apparently I need it)

Total Damage....wait for it.....$2,254.

Dylemma is not a happy camper
__________________

__________________
dylemma is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Installed new LEDs Raz Modifications, Alterations and Updates 18 11-17-2011 09:43 PM
5th wheel hitch to hitch pull jackstrr Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 9 07-19-2011 05:19 PM
HELP! At trailer hitch place, what size ball do I need? joy mccalla Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 5 01-18-2010 09:48 PM
Hitch Aid / Bumper Guard Behind Hitch Ball? Parker Buckley Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 01-27-2008 04:05 PM
factory installed AC Candi Woods Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 4 08-25-2006 02:03 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.