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Old 02-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #21
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While it is probably further than you want to go, I've had my last 3 hitches installed at Cole Muffler (now Mavis Discount Tire) here in Oswego, NY. (Could have been a short trip if the ferry idea hadn't fallen apart). No complaints about any of the installations, but if you want U-Haul, there is a U-Haul Hitch installer in Watertown, NY.

As to the wiring for the trailer lights, charge line & brake controller, I did it myself - on a RAV4 it was an experience!
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:06 PM   #22
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The OP may wish to check their cars manual in regards to the use of an equalizing hitch should who ever installs the hitch suggest they use one. In previous year models of Subaru's the manual clearly states they are not to be used. Having hauled thousands of miles with a Subaru all I can say is that it there is really no good reason for adding one either if the OP stays within Subaru's towing specs. No squat issue with the Outback (or at least on older models) and no handling issues either without one.
Yea, I know that is your oft stated opinion. My observation is that the Can Am hitches are engineered to build on the vehicle's inherent towing capability. No doubt Subaru knows the limitations of their own hitch design and that, I suspect, is why Can Am uses the forward mounting to accommodate the high moment from a load equalizing hitch.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #23
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Yea, I know that is your oft stated opinion. My observation is that the Can Am hitches are engineered to build on the vehicle's inherent towing capability. No doubt Subaru knows the limitations of their own hitch design and that, I suspect, is why Can Am uses the forward mounting to accommodate the high moment from a load equalizing hitch.
While I don't doubt that, and I myself have modified vehicles outside of manufacturer's spec with no worry, it can also throw the warranty away on a brand new vehicle. Something to think about...
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:10 PM   #24
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While I don't doubt that, and I myself have modified vehicles outside of manufacturer's spec with no worry, it can also throw the warranty away on a brand new vehicle. Something to think about...
Valid point. Hopefully we are all grown ups here.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #25
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, it can also throw the warranty away on a brand new vehicle. Something to think about...
not to mention spending a bunch of money that isnt really needed in the first place as the tug will handle its allowed trailer weights very well without one. Not to mention the weight of the equalizer will take away from the allowable tongue weight for a vehicle that is already a bit to restricted IMO in tongue weight specs to start with.

But as been clearly stated that just my opinion as someone who has put on more than a few miles towing a much heavier trailer than that the OP's with the vehicle in question.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #26
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Yea, I know that is your oft stated opinion. .

Actually Tom the no equalizer usage is not my opinion its the opinion of the vehicle manufactures. Clearly stated in their manual. I tend to give there recommendations a bit more weight than what I read on an internet forum or from a company that makes their living selling me goods and services. After all Subaru knows why that is their policy as they actually built the vehicle and are not simply guessing as to the reasons why. Have had Subaru give me reasons for that policy that have nothing to do with the hitch points.... as you say we are all adults so would expect the OP will do their own homework on that topic.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:00 PM   #27
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Just to unwind this a bit. I never said the OP needs a weight distribution hitch.

I said that this hitch design by Can Am lends itself well to use with a weight distribution hitch by virtue of the fact that it attached well forward, as well as in the back to take the moment from the weight distributing hitch. Can Am uses this design on a number of their applications.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:05 PM   #28
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Actually Tom the no equalizer usage is not my opinion its the opinion of the vehicle manufactures. Clearly stated in their manual. I tend to give there recommendations a bit more weight than what I read on an internet forum or from a company that makes their living selling me goods and services. After all Subaru knows why that is their policy as they actually built the vehicle and are not simply guessing as to the reasons why. Have had Subaru give me reasons for that policy that have nothing to do with the hitch points.... as you say we are all adults so would expect the OP will do their own homework on that topic.
I'm not going to argue this with you. I spent a career taking vehicles from one level of performance to another, higher level. I wrote owner's manuals.

You, personally, should obey the owner's manual to the letter. Even if the owner's manual says to tow at 45 mph maximum.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:56 PM   #29
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If you're getting the electrical installed at the same time, make sure that they run a wire for your 12V to the 7 pin. I assumed that they would do this but they didn't.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #30
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You, personally, should obey the owner's manual to the letter. Even if the owner's manual says to tow at 45 mph maximum.
Actually Tom Subaru is a bit more generous than many other vehicle manufactures in that regard, they only mention to never exceed 45 mph "when towing a trailer in hilly country on hot days." They dont give any temps to indicate what they consider a hot day though.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #31
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I've had a number of hitches installed by U-Haul and have been most satisfied with them.

That having been said:

None of those vehicles were anything near new, nor were any still under warranty. I think if I were to install a hitch on a brand new vehicle, I'd go with the factory unit if available, and have it installed either by the dealer I bought the car from or whoever they recommend. This in an effort to avoid potential warranty-related conflicts down the line. Not all aftermarket hitches will install exactly the same and as mentioned earlier, some may require modifications and even cutting of vehicle parts. This is not to say that an aftermarket hitch won't perform, but I've heard too many horror stories of warranty-voiding to take a chance on doing so on such an expensive vehicle.

There's also, at least in this case, the question of aesthetics- the factory hitch installation (below) for the 2013 Outback results in a much cleaner "look" than I think one would get with an aftermarket unit.

Also, per "upsizing" from a 1-1/4 inch receiver as suggested earlier:

The hitch below is 1-1/4, and rated for the vehicle's tow limit. In my opinion, there'd be no advantage in upsizing to a "bigger" hitch. This especially given the vehicle's hitch/tongue weight limit of 200 pounds, which limit effectively holds one's camptrailer weight limit at or near 2,000 pounds loaded (10% trailer/tongue ratio for camptrailer. I think the Outback's stated/advertised higher towing weight limit number relates to towing a boat, which can be safely towed with a lower tongue weight ratio than can a camptrailer.)



Image from: Subaru 2013 Outback research webpage- specs, options, colors, photos, and more

Good luck!

Francesca
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:31 PM   #32
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There's an advantage to 2" if you want a good bicycle or cargo rack, as stated above.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #33
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Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:39 AM   #34
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Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
Good for what they are, yes. Sturdy as a 2" one, not even close. Same with a cargo rack. I didn't find one that met my standards. My bike is a 29'er, it's 6" wider than my car, and not light. I've had three bikes on it at once, it won't so much as wiggle. I've even high centered my car on it, no damage.

Here's the bike rack, one of very few that are rated for rv use.



http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-R.../S64910-2.html

If a 2" hitch is available, there is absolutely no advantage to a 1 1/4" hitch.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:04 AM   #35
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Yakima and Thule both make *very* good bike racks for an 1 1/4" receiver.
True, but the 1 1/4 is not what I would be using. 2" is the way to go.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #36
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Not to put too fine a point on it, Dubya, but it wasn't the hitch but the ballmount that failed there!

What was on that puppy, anyway???

Francesca
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:05 AM   #37
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Good point Francesca!

Living in what many call the Mountain Bike Capital of the world I have put together a bit of a collection of bike rakes from over the years. Some with 1 1/4" some with 2" mounts, some worth their weight in gold some not so much. I actually need to do a garage sale one of these days! :-) Have found they all tend to shake, rattle and roll without some additional help and even then I never found a way to stop any of them from bouncing rolling around more than I would like. I also would not put any of them on the back of the trailer regardless of the rakes quality or hitch mount sizes or the weight of the bikes on the rake. By the comments made on this forum over and over, I know I'm not on my own in regards to that problem. I gave up on hitch mounts in part due to that issue & went with a roof mount rake. Subaru actually sells a pretty good system. The one I currently have which came directly from Subaru has actually outlasted a much more expensive 3rd party one I purchased for my last Outback.

For information purposes only here is what the OP's car manual reads in regards to install a hitch that does not use the attachment points that Subaru has in place from the factory (yes it is possible to install a perfectly good and safe hitch on an Outback without any additional drilling) here is what the 2013 Outback manual reads on Page 8-24 of the fairly large section on towing included in the manual. Both items appear in highlighted side boxes:

"Trailer hitches
WARNING
Never drill the frame or under-body of your vehicle to install a commercial trailer hitch. If you do, dangerous exhaust gas, water or mud may enter the passenger compartment
through the drilled hole. Exhaust gas contains carbon monoxide, a colorless and odorless gas which is dangerous, or even lethal, if inhaled.
Also, drilling the frame or underbody of your vehicle could cause deterioration of strength of your vehicle and cause corrosion around the drilled hole."

"CAUTION
Do not modify the vehicle exhaust system, brake system, or other systems when installing a hitch or other trailer towing equipment.
Do not use axle-mounted hitches as they can cause damage to the axle housing, wheel bearings, wheels or tires."

The above was obtained from Subaru.com
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:33 AM   #38
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Not to put too fine a point on it, Dubya, but it wasn't the hitch but the ballmount that failed there!

What was on that puppy, anyway???

Francesca
Bike rack with two, 25lb bikes. A Uhaul ball mount. Uhaul replaced the broken ball mount no charge.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #39
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Notice that it attaches securely forward in the vehicle which allows for good weight transfer from a load equalizing hitch.
This post is not saying 'right' or 'wrong', just throwing in some info from elsewhere. That CanAm hitch doesn't appeal to me much as a former structural engineer since it appears to put the biggest load (the rearmost attachment) on sheetmetal in the spare wheel well, rather than the frame rails (even unibodies have frame rails - they're just welded in).

So I looked up some fitting instructions for a Euro 'towbar' (=hitch) as under Euro law, these must can only be fitted onto mounting points specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Witter Forester 2013- towbar This is quite a different approach, requiring removal of the bumper and unusually putting the hitch inside the frame rails, coming out the back. Euro towbars don't use receivers which is why the last bit may look odd.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #40
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This post is not saying 'right' or 'wrong', just throwing in some info from elsewhere. That CanAm hitch doesn't appeal to me much as a former structural engineer since it appears to put the biggest load (the rearmost attachment) on sheetmetal in the spare wheel well, rather than the frame rails (even unibodies have frame rails - they're just welded in).
My Can Am receiver is similar. What you can't see in the image is rather large plates Can Am installed on the opposite sides of the sheet metal where the bolts go through. This covers a very large area which in the big picture is a substantial mounting point.

Note on my vehicle I noticed that the small frame rails were very inaccessible (the muffler obstructing one from view). I pointed that out the the Can Am fabricator. He said no problem. He then pointed out a couple options that he said were better anyways. With a trailer tongue weight of over 600lbs mine has worked great since installed seven years ago.
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