Best place to get hitch installed?

[Francesca Knowles]

Well, I tracked down the OEM hitch for the 2013 Outback.

And, frankly, I can't wrap my head around the notion that confidence in Subaru engineering leads folks to buy their cars in huge numbers, but that confidence doesn't extend to the equipment it designed for this particular purpose!

Subaru's hitch is certainly more expensive than aftermarket hitches, but it's a heckuvalot cheaper than Can-Am is going to cost, especially if the O.P. has the most basic mechanical skills and is willing to do it at home. Though the process looks time-consuming for an amateur (like me), it's a bolt-on sequence that's so simple that I wouldn't hesitate to tackle it.

I see no reason the O.P. should be directed to a place like Can-Am, whose specialty other than moving RV's from place to place is evidently coming up with "creative solutions" for vehicles whose manufacturers provide no parts/support/directions for towing applications. That's why they charge big money! Why pay them to "fabricate" something when a hitch specifically engineered for the purpose has been built by the carmaker?

Per strength/sufficiency for the job:
The OEM hitch is rated for more than the capacity of the car, and appears to bolt on in more places than its aftermarket substitutes, including this example of the kind of "bigger" hitch some recommend. Also, Subaru's hitch does make use of the inside of the framerails (See page 5 at instructions below), while the linked-to bigger hitch does not.

Links to OEM hitch info:

Outback Hitch: fits 2009-2013

Instructions

Francesca

[Carol H]

Well thanks for digging that up Francesca.
Its a good thing as when Subaru first started offering hitches a couple of years back they *only* had a class I hitch good for 2000lbs which as one party here who purchased a new car with a hitch on it from the factory found out Subaru was not able to switch out to match their cars higher tow specs. Which is the reason most people have in the past had to go elsewhere for a hitch.

Also looks like they may be offering up the wiring harness and attachment housing as well - which they havent done in the past either. I Love Seeing this! as some here have suggested in the past that the reason Subaru didnt offer up hitches or harnesses was because they really didnt want you towing with the car as it really wasnt meant to be towed with. Their current hitch and harness offerings sure seem to throw that whole theory out the window

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Well, I tracked down the OEM hitch for the 2013 Outback....

Links to OEM hitch info:

Instructions

Specific, relevant, authoritative, detailed, and clear - truly a beautiful thing
Thanks!

I was surprised that any content from the Subaru Technical Information System (STIS) is freely available to the public. When I have tried to navigate into this material in the past, I have found that it requires a paid subscription, which is understandable. Now I see this explanation at the bottom of the STIS home page:

*Note: All Accessory Installation Guides do not require a subscription.

Good news for those with Subaru tugs.

[Mark J]

The $2000+ quote is really out of line, no need to spend that much to have a hitch installed. I would order a hitch from Etrailer.com and have a local shop install it for about $500 total cost. If you also include the cooler instal that shouldn't cost more than $200, so $700 should cover it. I'm not sure about the cost for 7 pin wiring? (All newer Subaru's do have a 4 pin wiring harness to plug into located in the right rear trunk area, which is all I am presently using.)

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Mark J

The $2000+ quote is really out of line, no need to spend that much to have a hitch installed.

Yes, but, to be fair to Can Am RV...

Originally Posted by dylemma

1 - 2" Class 3 equalizing hitch system, installed
1 - 7 pin connector with brake control, installed
1 - Transmission cooler (apparently I need it)

This is much more than installation of a hitch.
Parts:

• hitch receiver - possibly custom fabricated
• weight distribution system? (they said "hitch system")
• brake controller (hopefully a first rate unit, at the very least a modern proportional controller)
• wiring supplies
• relay and circuit breaker for charge line to trailer?
• transmission cooler with hoses, fittings, and brackets

Labour:

• hitch installation
• brake control installation
• brake control wiring
• trailer charge line wiring?
• transmission cooler installation
• hitch setup (adjustment of WD system)

Some of us have our opinions about the necessity of some of these items, but regardless of that, this is not likely a $700 job for over $2000.

Dave - are a WD system (shank, head, spring bars, chain brackets) and charge wiring included? Is it a stock hitch receiver, a modified one, or a custom fabrication? Just curious... it's your purchase, not ours

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MC1

We know in many cases Can Am will strenghten or improve on many factory or aftermarket receivers because they were not up to the task they were designed for. Their rep wrote about it a number of times.

I have read Andy Thompson's columns about cases where production hitches were flexing excessively under load, and Can Am has added reinforcement, thus improving them. It's not rocket science - these are just steel boxes fastened to the vehicle structure. Has there been any suggestion in this discussion that any of the available Subaru Outback hitch receivers (OEM or aftermarket) needed this sort of fix?

A more common scenario discussed by Andy and his customers seems to be modifying hitches to perform tasks for which they were not designed, such as using weight distribution to handle tongue weights beyond the vehicle manufacturer's rated limit. This can be done, but another approach is to stay within the limits and not need the modification (or custom fabrication); an advantage is that the trailer owner then doesn't need to understand the custom work or assess any supplier's ability to correctly do mechanical design and manufacturing.

I am interested in automotive technology and mechanical design - I entertain myself by mentally sketching out vehicle configurations and solving mechanical puzzles such as WD hitch operation - so I would look forward to a custom hitch design if I needed it. On the other hand, for most people if the desired trailer is within the rated limits of the owner's tow vehicle, there seems to be little reason for the headaches and risks of having a custom system designed and built - especially one intended to operate in a mode not even endorsed by the vehicle manufacturer. We - and our rigs - each have our own best answers, if we have enough information to make the choice.

[MC1]

Originally Posted by dylemma

I will need to install a hitch on my new tow vehicle, 2013 Outback.I have no interest in DIY. Any suggestions in the Toronto area? I will also cross the border if the price and service warrant.

Although a good discussion I keep refering back to the OP.

They asked for "the best place to get a hitch installed".

Not interested in DIY.

Can Am is still the best answer.

[Francesca Knowles]

I'm disturbed by Can-Am's evident recommendation to the O.P. that he disregard the car maker's admonition re. weight distributing hitch, especially given the vehicle's other limitations. This is different from a run-of-the-mill Can Am job, where they take on some car whose mfr. says nothing at all about the vehicle's limitations and Can Am wonderboys come up with a ground-up setup based on what they think is possible.

In this case, the carmaker is very specific about what the car can do, and how. I'm uncomfortable with mechanics that simply throw explicit information out the window and reinvent something! I think there's overkill (and a bit of hubris) here that's running up the cost.

Also:
I guess I missed the O.P.'s Outback model- but since all autotranny versions have transmission coolers already: Is additional transmission cooling capacity required by Subaru as an add-on for towing ? It doesn't even appear to be offered as an option on new units. I wonder if the existing cooler isn't deemed sufficient when towing within given limits.

And finally, as to the trailer that the O.P. actually wants to tow (Trillium 1300?)
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't someone (maybe Thomas?) post here recently that Trillium ALSO specifically advises against the use of W/D hitches on their trailers?


Francesca

[MC1]

I think you need to give credit and trust where it is due.

It is no secret. Can Am has been doing what they do successfully for over 40 years.

Are you aware of their resources?

There is info our there. Contacts with auto makers, data, engineers etc.

I know when Mr. T. (Can Am) set my vehicle up he was in contact with the manufacturer before taking on the job.

It's great when someone can get past the marketing department and politics of the day.


The other safety benefit that folks forget about is that when complete the rig gets test driven by "someone in the know" at Can Am.

If there is anything not right you have an expert that makes it right before they hand it back to you.

If you take your vehicle to most other places they may not take it to that level of service/accuracy/detail.


Can Am has always said..... If someone doesn't want to use their premium services there is a budget hitch installer just down the street from them.


Customers choice!

[Carol H]

You are also correct that Subaru does not offer a transmission cooler as optional for the Outbacks. Nor do they require one for towing. In fact adding one can result in warranty issues if you have a transmission failure during the 5 years it is under warranty.

Pretty sure if you did a poll here you would find that few folks of the many towing with a Subaru actually have added a 3rd party transmission cooler - aside from those folks who are pulling a trailer way over their cars tow specs.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by MC1

I think you need to give credit and trust where it is due.

I'm not knockin' what CanAm does- there's obviously a market for it among folks with marginal tow setups....I've heard Can Am is very creative in those situations and "premium prices" for doing so is perfectly justified.

This just isn't one of those situations. There's no indication from the O.P. that he wants the car to do anything other than tow well below recommended limits. Why send him to an Orthopedic Surgeon when all he needs is a corn plaster?

Still- if he'd like to pay "premium prices", he might consider paying someone to install the hitch that Subaru engineered for his specific car, that will perfectly fit, and do what he wants it to do.

Francesca

[MC1]

Here is a thread that sums up the discussion nicely.

It talks about the vehicle manufacturer being out of touch with the RV world.

The customer gets caught in the middle with a safety issue.

Landrover Safety Issue - Airstream Forums

[Glenn Baglo]

I tried to understand, but the problem I have is the way people use the term "hitch". I gather that the hitch fell off ( the WDH? ); not that the hitch receiver fell off??
So, did the hitch receiver become detached from the vehicle or what?

[Francesca Knowles]

I read "hitch" as the part that's attached to the vehicle.

I read that thread as a textbook example of the folly of listening/paying heed to anyone but the vehicle maker when it comes to the installation of such hardware.

Imagine taking the advice of the guy that sells you the trailer per what the right hardware is for a vehicle he had nothing to do with building!

Francesca

[Carol H]

I read it that the hitch some how came off the under side of the tug. I also read into it that the tugs manufacture doesnt support the use of the WDH and blamed it on the use of the WDH. What has me puzzled though is why is it unsafe to pull at 19' trailer with a tongue weight of over 10% unsafe with out a WDH and why would the trailer dealer not sell the trailer without out it?

EDIT just looked at the tug manufactures site and I now suspect its the special design hitch receiver that was coming off.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Carol H

I read it that the hitch some how came off the under side of the tug.

If that's the case, how was it that it could happen several times while towing back to the dealer? I can't imagine re-installing my hitch receiver several times while on the road.

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

If that's the case, how was it that it could happen several times while towing back to the dealer? I can't imagine re-installing my hitch receiver several times while on the road.

I can't imagine repeatedly installing any hitch that kept causing me to lose my trailer, and endangering my life, and the life of everybody on the road.

If brains were gas, some people wouldn't make it out of their driveway. Unfortunately, they can, and then this happens.

[MC1]

To clarify....

The LR4 is rated for towing 7700 lbs with a tongue weight 500.

Without question towing that amount of weight, with a 500lb tongue weight, "without" a WDH is foolish and dangerous. Now this is a Land Rover and perhaps the manufacturer assumes the driver is towing on a dirt road in Africa doing 10MPH.

The dealer installs the WDH. The action of the WDH causes the receiver to come loose and disconnects from the vehicle.

The manufacturer sends the owner a different manual???

Mr. T from Can Am explains the situation as he is aware of the manufacturer's short comings and writes about the proper solution as he has experience with the Land Rovers.

The point is you cannot trust the manufacturers numbers in all cases. Off shore vehicle builders don't understand WDH's and send their vehicles into the North American market with a smoke and mirror hue.

Buyer's beware.

[Glenn Baglo]

Still don't understand how something ( the hitch receiver ) that is bolted ( I presume ) to the vehicle could come loose "several times" and be re-attached ( after, as I recall creating large holes in the vehicle ). Not something I would attempt on the side of the road.
I am suspect of the narrator's story.

[Glenn Baglo]

Further to my failure to understand what really happened, the chains from my tow are attached to the hitch receiver, so if the hitch receiver came off the vehicle "several times", how did the chains prevent the trailer from taking off?