Butyl Tape - All Not Created Equal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-05-2013, 12:32 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
It depends; considering your experience with your Fantastic-Fan installation.

IMHO the issue is standing water. If you expect contaminated water to stand on the roof against the butyl seal for long periods, then I would add the Dicor C-10 for a layered defense. Same concept as resin coating the edges of a plywood floor and its through holes to prevent wicked seepage.
Thanks Frederick - having more/extra protection is never a bad thing for the what ifs, which is why I was thinking about adding it. But was wondering about compatibility - any issues/compatibility with leveling type such as Dicor c-10 coming in contact with the small spots of butyl tape around the edge that you know of?
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:40 PM   #16
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Carol, I know I wouldn't bother with the bead of lap sealant at the edge is a window flange bedded with butyl tape but I believe Frederick's comment on applying it to the heads of bolts in a horizontal ap like a roof fan or hatch makes sense. Even there I'd be sparing of the stuff to avoid filling the common or Phillips slots of fasteners in case someone needs to redo after another 22 go by.

Thinking a bit about that Bimini top stanchion socket is important. Yes the socket should drain on deck so a butyl gasket around machine bolts alone is correct. I hope no one will apply this method when installing a flanged item which surrounds a central opening such as a fan, vent, vent stack cap, other thru hulls. In all these cases a continuous gasket IS required absolutely without exception.


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Old 05-05-2013, 01:14 PM   #17
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I have installed my Fantastic Fan using both Butyl tape between horizontal layers and Dycor C-10 covering the perimeter edge plus screw heads. The C-10 bridges the fiberglass/butyl/plastic sandwich, adhering well to the (alcohol clean) fiberglass and plastic and encapsulating the butyl. My Fantastic Fan is installed in a partially depressed area where rain water pools on one side until it all evaporates, and I have had no leaks.
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Even there I'd be sparing of the stuff to avoid filling the common or Phillips slots of fasteners in case someone needs to redo after another 22 go by.
I have recently moved my Fantastic-Fan to a new vent hole after removing it from the central vent hole to install my air conditioner. I had to drill the C-10 out of the chamfers and use an awl to dig it out of the screw slots. I considered it the cost of the leak prevention.
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:14 PM   #18
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I just discovered a third roll of so called butyl tape that I bought from an RV parts supplier and never used. The package is sealed and definitely labeled "butyl tape". It is more sticky and pliable than my other stuff but packaged air tight, which leaves me a little suspicious. Is it real butyl tape or fresh no good stuff that will quickly dry out? Is there a test for butyl rubber? Special smell?
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #19
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. I had to drill the C-10 out of the chamfers and use an awl to dig it out of the screw slots. I considered it the cost of the leak prevention.
Good thing it wasn't C-4
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:23 PM   #20
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Good thing it wasn't C-4
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:28 PM   #21
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Covering the butyl tape with C-10 between the horizontal flange and roof would also provide a firmer skin and prevent dirt, etc. from adhering to the tape.
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:29 PM   #22
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Good thing it wasn't C-4
Sort of makes a leak irrelevant if it was C-4.
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:51 PM   #23
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Thanks guys. Second question. Scamp installs their fans and hatches using rivets. So when I did the Fantastic Fan I did the same and I used caps - with a dab of caulking under the snap rings. Photo 1. (edit: to add I just looked & I did put a dab in the center of the rivet as well). Was planning on doing the same with the emergency hatch as it looks a lot better than how Scamp does it - big drops of caulking on the rivet heads - Photo 2.

Is there a downside to using caps vs big drops of caulking on the rivet heads?
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:08 PM   #24
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I just discovered a third roll of so called butyl tape that I bought from an RV parts supplier and never used. The package is sealed and definitely labeled "butyl tape". It is more sticky and pliable than my other stuff but packaged air tight, which leaves me a little suspicious. Is it real butyl tape or fresh no good stuff that will quickly dry out? Is there a test for butyl rubber? Special smell?
LOL Steve if you havent already take a look at link to thread posted in #3 and read through it. Various ways of telling the difference.... maybe
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Old 05-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #25
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I like the cap appearance. I wonder if the grit comes free on the Scamp blob model?
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #26
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LOL Steve if you havent already take a look at link to thread posted in #3 and read through it. Various ways of telling the difference.... maybe
I read through the earlier thread and the roll #3 stuff appears to be the real deal except for the shrinkage looking appearance. It's definitely stickier and stretches longer without breaking. ..... Ah, what the heck, I'll buy a roll (#4) from the guy referred to in my original post to be on the safe side.
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:41 PM   #27
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I like the cap appearance. I wonder if the grit comes free on the Scamp blob model?
Ditto, no comparison in looks. The caps and more so, the careful workmanship looks much better.
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #28
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In the video, the "grey" stuff used to encircle the bolts of the Bimini top deck hdwre. appeared to be a bit too easy to separate from the roll without producing long chewing gum-like filaments. The white tape used later did produce stringy filaments, signaling, IMO, some butyl content.

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