Butyl Tape - All Not Created Equal - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-05-2013, 06:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by SRD View Post
Ditto, no comparison in looks. The caps and more so, the careful workmanship looks much better.

Thanks Steve, its just that its one of those projects I have me ignoring for 5 years and now I have it off and roof cleaned up etc its not something I want to do again as long as I own the trailer so would kind of want to get it right the first time.

Interestingly Scamp did indeed use Butyl under the hatch rim but not a lot of it & then caulked it. Pretty sure it was just putty though as it came off way to easy.
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:00 PM   #30
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Is there a downside to using caps vs big drops of caulking on the rivet heads?
People cannot admire your meticulous handiwork from ground level?
Fiber Stream used dollops of caulk to cover ALL of their screw heads over the entire trailer. I had to remove each one to replace with new screws (that screw into wood on the other side of the fiberglass) encased in snap caps just as you have done with your Fantastic-Fan installation. Just this year I replaced caps that had deteriorated since their installation in 2004. I have not had any cap leak, although the deteriorated ones looked like half dissolved M&Ms.
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:22 AM   #31
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Thanks Frederick - re the deteriorated caps. I found the ones that Scamp sells do break down in time but I found some I purchased from one of the big box stores are a bit shiner plastic and seem to be keeping their shine and not getting that rough finish over time as the ones from Scamp do if thats of any use to you for future cap replacements. Only problem is the nice shine ones dont fit well on the original Scamp cap holders so you need to buy the holders that go with them at the same time.
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:49 PM   #32
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GMike, let me answer. Having worked in aircraft my whole life I have to say always de-burr your holes. Like the man in the vid did.It only takes a small (anything) to keep what ever your putting in the hole to not sit flush. So that mean it could leak.De-burr both sides of the hole.
Remember, more does not mean better.
Some aircraft can float on water. If I was going to install a big part, say a window. I would tape around where it will sit. Fill what needs to be filled and remove what you see then remove the tape. More is not better and always de-burr you hole before you stick your (what-ever) in. Lol, but true.
Let me add, too much is a bad thing. Only need tape or seal where anything mates. Any more and you can trap water or what ever.
Once again, let me add. Do not counter sink your holes in your rv just de-burr. The reason the guy in the vid did is because he was working with think FG and he had those small dimples on top, so he had to. These thin FG rv's if you did what he did you would be weakening the FG
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:13 PM   #33
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Once again, let me add. Do not counter sink your holes in your rv just de-burr. The reason the guy in the vid did is because he was working with think FG and he had those small dimples on top, so he had to. These thin FG rv's if you did what he did you would be weakening the FG
Good point. The fiberglass thickness shown in the video is not anywhere near what we have with our trailers.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #34
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Butyl Tape - All Not Created Equal
I'm just waiting for someone to suggest that some brands of butyl tape contain silicone and then let Donna see that.......
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #35
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Thanks I understood the de-burring. I am not countersinking a screw hole I am just chamfering a bit. I use a cone shaped attachment for my Dremel and almost just kiss it and it does a great job.
Lots of great data as usual.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:47 PM   #36
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You can also use a bigger drill bit by hand to do the de-burr
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:40 PM   #37
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I'm just waiting for someone to suggest that some brands of butyl tape contain silicone and then let Donna see that.......
Better not....

But, I saw your post Andrew!
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:24 PM   #38
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I tried in vain to purchase a roll of butyl tape (4th attempt) locally. Gave up and ordered a couple of rolls from the marine supplier mentioned earlier.
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:35 PM   #39
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Dont hold your breath Steve that it will in fact be the item you think you really need/ordered ;-)

Keep in mind that as someone mention in the previous long thread on the topic the wrong stuff will do the trick as well and probable for many many years after the trailer is no longer in your possession. Funny enough when I took the factory installed escape hatch off my Scamp yesterday what was under it was butyl putty not the tape. Yet it somehow managed to remain leak free for 22 years.
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:47 PM   #40
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Whether or not to use the really sticky stretchy butyl or the drier putty tape (to me) is in direct proportion to how difficult the install! I wouldn't want to deal with roof stuff (use the best stuff) very often, windows and vents on the side are easy (use the drier stuff if that's what you have).

YMMV
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:38 AM   #41
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I just removed and resealed the side jalousie and door windows in my 82 Scamp.
They weren't leaking but I decided to do everything while refurbishing it.
The old type butyl putty was still very pliable away from the outside edges.

I don't think there is any wrong stuff.
Putty or tape both do the same job and we know the putty is good for 20 or 30 years.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:47 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Perry J
I don't think there is any wrong stuff.
Putty or tape both do the same job and we know the putty is good for 20 or 30 years.
Both inexpensive putty tape such as the Camco vent seal pack and the pricey real McCoy are sold as an extruded "tape" in a roll with a paper separator between layers. Has anyone used, or known anyone to use, a bedding putty which was NOT in the form of tape--say a product from a can like glazier's putty--in rv applications? If not, I find it difficult to explain Perry's distinction between putty and tape?

The putty tape I have encountered becomes rock hard and chalky in less than 20 yrs. and adhesion to fiberglass has failed as witnessed by the growth of black mold on both. I believe anyone who pulls windows or vents and finds a pliable gasket after 30 yrs. is dealing with a product with high butyl content and has not encountered the shortest-lived bedding product out there. Butyl tape provides a longer-lasting seal than putty tapes based on volatile organic solvents. Superior performance is the mark of a superior product.

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