Cabinet Locks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2013, 02:15 PM   #15
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There are two issues with these latches. The first is general and described in the installation instructions. The screw head on the back of the cabinet door needs to be inside the cabinet door opening.

The second is the use of the locking screw in the fiberglass front of the trailer's cabinets. I've installed four in fiberglass and one of them resulted in a little chip around the screw hole.

Bob, you're right about motion. The worse culprit is the utensil drawer in our rig. I'll be curious to see if any of the locking screws lossen.

Gilda, I did not do anything special for the fiberglass mounted screws except open the holes a little more than suggested.

ALl screws are phillips head, I wish they were the Canadian square drive screws, particularly because the screw thru the fiberglass is brass and takes effort to insert.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
All screws are phillips head, I wish they were the Canadian square drive screws, particularly because the screw thru the fiberglass is brass and takes effort to insert.
If the screw head tends to strip out, you could try stainless steel screws instead of the brass. Another positive-drive alternative to Robertson (which is apparently hard to find in the U.S.) is Torx.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:40 PM   #17
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Norm,
Thanks for the photo. A picture is truly worth 1,000 words! I never thought of installing them on the side like that!
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:43 PM   #18
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Gilda,

I've installed a dozen latches now and found that a 9/64th inch drill in fiberglass for the brass screws eliminates chipping and holds the screw well.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:58 PM   #19
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Why do I need cabinet locks?
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:01 PM   #20
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You may not need them. We have a couple that open regularly, the utensil drawer and the under fridge canned drink storage. As well the two large under the dinette drawers. In part it depends on the road and in part what's in them.

We have 24 drawers and cabinets and did 12.

The worse offender has been the fridge but we resolved that with an o-ring sometime ago.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:07 PM   #21
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Norm, I barely know what an o-ring is. how did you use one to secure your fridge door?

S.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:50 PM   #22
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We've been using a completely different approach to keeping most of our Scamp 5er's cabinet doors closed. For the last several (5) years, we've used high power Neodymium magnets to latch our doors shut, and they've done really very well. Even when I've taken the trailer up badly rutted backroads, the cabinets have stayed closed.




I wrote a post about them a while back:
Sigh . . . Five Scamp Upper Kitchen Cabinet Doors
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:59 PM   #23
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Sharon,

An O-ting is a black rubber ring. They come in all sizes at virtually every small harware store, usually about 25 cents. I put a small hook into the edge of the fridge door and clip the O ring over the top of the standard fridge door lock..

I'll post a picture in the morning.

My fridge has a little swing plastic piece that's supposed to hold the fridge closed when traveling but after 22 years.....
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #24
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thank you Norm -- I KNOW I will need to secure fridge door before I hit the road. I can "feel" it!!! Looking forward to pics, altho we have different size fridges.

S.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #25
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We use magnets to hold our home built screen door against the cabinet wall when open.

Similarly we use magnets to hold the door in the closed position. They are not as strong as those you purchased. Our screen door is very light, not more than the weight of a window screem.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:11 PM   #26
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Got bungee cord selection, with plastic hooks, at Canadian Tire.
Seems to work.
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Fridge bungee.jpg  
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:14 PM   #27
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We used to use Bungees.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:20 PM   #28
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I hear that screws leave holes.
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