carrying a kayak - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-29-2012, 08:49 PM   #29
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Name: Sue
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We have two sets of J racks that we mount on top of hubby's Frontier. We are new to kayaking and have used them twice. They are great, except..... we aren't quite tall enough to push the kayaks up and over the bottom of the j. Last trip out I opened the door to get more height and before I could grab the front end, hubby gave it a shove and down it went taking the car window out in the process. Moral of the story - take two people and communicate!
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:32 PM   #30
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Laura, I looked hard at and strongly considered both the Sea Eagle and the Saturn KaBoat inflatables. They look pretty interesting.

In the end, I had to ask myself how I really preferred to move a small watercraft. And pedaling won out, with an electric trolling motor a close second (many inflatables can be had with a transom mount). I guess I prefer not to paddle all that much! But I still can paddle if I get the urge or if it's too shallow for the Mirage Drive flippers.

Slowpat, thanks for your comment about top vs bottom strength. Good to know.

Sue, good advice. Unfortunately for me, I'll be traveling alone most of the time.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:49 PM   #31
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Now that I have a Hobie kayak on the way, I have been browsing the Hobie forum for tidbits. It turns out that the mfr actually recommends loading their kayaks with the bottom up, because the cockpit's side rails are very strong and should not deform when placed across cushioned roof rack crossrails. Now I'm thinking about trying some pool noodles on the crossrails.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:01 PM   #32
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On my home made racks I use the foam pipe insulation, but the pool noodles should work good too, they are thicker I think. There are roller setups for sliding a kayak onto the car roof, and some kind of mat to lay on the car and slide it up on. One of the used kayaks we bought, the lady was just using a blanket laid on the back of the car and slid the kayak up on that.Our kayaks weigh around 45 pounds so I can load them alone if I need to. Bob
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:25 PM   #33
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On my home made racks I use the foam pipe insulation, but the pool noodles should work good too, they are thicker I think. There are roller setups for sliding a kayak onto the car roof, and some kind of mat to lay on the car and slide it up on. One of the used kayaks we bought, the lady was just using a blanket laid on the back of the car and slid the kayak up on that.Our kayaks weigh around 45 pounds so I can load them alone if I need to. Bob
Thanks for that. Yes, my hull will be 48 lbs, a big consideration for me since I'll have to load it myself. I think the larger noodles would act like rollers, too, at least until they get flattened too much.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:49 PM   #34
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Mike have fun with your new toy! I have used the the foam pipe insulation without problem but the pool noodles as suggested may be even better.

There is one thing about securing your new toy that you may already be aware of but just in case your not, you need to use serious caution when securing a plastic based kayak in the hot sun. I have only used fiberglass kayaks so have never had to worry about it but I do travel to Vancouver Island a lot where you see a lot of kayaks secured in various ways to vehicles in the ferry line up. I have seen more than a couple of times plastic kayaks that are taking on a whole new shape in the hot sun due to how they are tied down......... often left to wonder if the kayak ever went back to its original shape...... might be worth reading up on a little if you havent already.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:16 PM   #35
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Scary thought, Carol! I guess I'll have to google around and see what I can find. But so far it seems that putting straps across or around the middle should do a lot of the holding, but taut bow and stern lines to the bumper areas are still required.

Here's what I found from the Hobie forum:
Hobie Cat Forums • View topic - Transporting your Hobie Kayak

Seems like it will be an interesting balancing act between too tight and not tight enough!
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:19 PM   #36
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I have been researching various racks the last couple days and have decided to rework my Thule crossbars with the saddles that hold the kayaks in an upright position. This is the rack that broke off, but at that time it had plastic clamps to hold the crossbars to the car factory rack. I found some metal clamps from Thule and am going to use them. Also I now have bow & stern lines and Thule straps.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:24 PM   #37
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Seems like it will be an interesting balancing act between too tight and not tight enough!
Yup that seems to be the issue - my advise is to just watch it if you have them sitting out in the hot sun while strapped down. One of the worst cases I saw was as a result of the straps over the middle being to tight - the whole sitting area of the kayak had flattened. This may have been more of a problem with some of the early model plastics used and it may not be such a problem with newer products... not sure but worth checking around on it for sure.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:08 PM   #38
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Mike have fun with your new toy! I have used the the foam pipe insulation without problem but the pool noodles as suggested may be even better.

There is one thing about securing your new toy that you may already be aware of but just in case your not, you need to use serious caution when securing a plastic based kayak in the hot sun. I have only used fiberglass kayaks so have never had to worry about it but I do travel to Vancouver Island a lot where you see a lot of kayaks secured in various ways to vehicles in the ferry line up. I have seen more than a couple of times plastic kayaks that are taking on a whole new shape in the hot sun due to how they are tied down......... often left to wonder if the kayak ever went back to its original shape...... might be worth reading up on a little if you havent already.
I could swear that my 17 foot plastic kayak was drooping on a 105 degree day. But, when morning came, it had gone back to the correct shape. I have what is probably really cheap plastic boats. They will dent or "oil can"
if I tighten down too much on the straps that hold them on the rack. They will dent when it is hot. They will pop back into shape and hold that shape in the cool water. Or, you can punch them out when still hot with your hand.

My boats are/were made by Precision Kayaks.

As for loading. I bought a two wheel cart (Paddleboy) and hook it on the end of the kayak. I cover the back of the car with a rug or pad, then lift the front up--the back rolls ahead on the wheels. Then, after I have the front up where it will pivot down on the rollers, I go back and lift the back of the kayak and slide it on.

Reverse that for unloading and the wheels will really make unloading easier.

I was able to load and unload a 75 pound tandem that way, by myself.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:29 PM   #39
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well, i like a canoe myself. after thinking and pondering long and hard. i decided i will rent one when we get there.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:39 PM   #40
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John there is a lot to be said for that approach if you are only doing a couple of trips a year - especially if ocean kayaks are involved. It is a real pain to transport your own equipment into remote areas where a plane is involved. Not to mention due to the nature of the rocky shores there is usually maintenance of the bottoms required each year. If you rent you dont need to worry about fixing stuff, find a place at home to store them and the best part is you often get much newer models to rent. Have found a lot of companies sell off all their kayaks once they have been used for more than two years of rental.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #41
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Well I sold the 14' Necky Zoar Sport this last week. By the way, I put a single attachment eye bolt in the middle of the hood on My Dodge. then tied to it from front of kayak., ( all one needs) just make sure you are secure on top. I used those yakima saddle style kayak roof carriers and they always worked well for me.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:33 PM   #42
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I picked up the Hobie at the Forward Air freight carrier terminal yesterday. The upper surface around the cockpit area looks very flat and sturdy, so I feel good about hauling it upside down. In fact, Hobie says upside down is the preferred storage position.

If I were doing it over, I doubt that I would again buy from a distant dealer. I bought this kayak on ebay from a Hobie dealer. After I paid for the yak, this outfit, Adventure Sports / Kayak City of Sacramento CA, sent an email with details about shipping. They basically said they would not be liable for any damage incurred in transit if I did not indicate the damage before signing the electronic pad. They said that Forward Air would not allow me to unwrap and inspect it, so I was to click the damage button and write in "possible damage" in the box that would open. However, when I picked up the kayak, the electronic pad would not open a "damage" box and the workers said I could not indicate damage since the exterior packaging looked fine. Grrrr!

A dealer doesn't impress me when they use cheapo carriers who won't let you inspect the contents before accepting them. Nor when a dealer issues a disclaimer of liability after the offer, acceptance, and consideration are completed; though that disclaimer would not hold up in court, who wants to go 1400 miles to appear in small claims court?

To top it off, they did not send me a mfr's statement of origin (MSO), and I can't register the kayak or legally use it without one. I called them and asked for a notarized MSO like my state wants, and this dealer wants another $10 for that.

So if doing it over, I probably would not risk it; I'd buy local even though it would cost me about $450 more.

I got lucky this time though; no damage to the yak, and it looks super. I'm eager to get it on the water.
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