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Old 06-03-2017, 08:52 AM   #41
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Casita
OR
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
That would be a CO ( carbon monoxide ) detector, not a carbon dioxide alarm ( which is what you exhale when you breathe ).
It is best to read and save and read the instruction manuals for trailer appliances.
Perhaps it's not a CO detector at all, but an LP ( liquid propane ) detector that you are referring to. In that case, the manual suggests vacuuming the face of the alarm regularly.
Thanks for the correction, Glenn... yes, CO, not Co2. We have, and have referred to, all the trailer documentation, also have an excellent adviser on all things RV. It's a nearly new Casita (2016 and never used) that we just bought in May from a dealer in Portland. Even the dealer agreed that the detector was malfunctioning and sent us a replacement, which we will have installed next week before our maiden voyage to California from Oregon.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:07 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
There are two kinds of thieves. Casual, opportunistic thieves will likely be put off by several layers of conventional security- boots and coupler locks, for example. As to a well-equipped professional thief targeting my trailer, that's why I pay my insurance premiums.
+1 on the two types.

A change in my auto insurance this year prompted purchasing separate insurance for the trailers. Total coverage @ a $7K valuation each cost about $100 CAD including taxes per trailer.

The insurance change was because they deemed my truck too old to insure without an appraisal. Oddly enough they accepted my valuation for the trailers that are twice the age without an appraisal. My broker couldn't do it with their online systems, it had to go straight to the ins. co.

I put the valuation acceptance down to 2 things. The ins. co. is based in Winnepeg where there are more bolers and fg trailers than other parts of the country, so they should be more familiar with them. The other is I provided the ins.co. a link to Greg A's site https://www.fiberglass-rv-4sale.com/

Thanks Greg!
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:10 PM   #43
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We bought a Brahma Wheel Lock. VERY heavy duty.
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:57 AM   #44
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Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21RB, 2004
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Originally Posted by MinnesotaJill View Post
We bought a Brahma Wheel Lock. VERY heavy duty.
There is a contractor not very far from home, he has this kind of padlock attached to his trailer which is parked near the street, would be easy and quick to take if had not this kind of padlock very visible.
He uses the trailer as a mini warehouse it's been several years since I see it with this padlock and never heard that someone had tried to steal it ...

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But when the thieves absolutely want a trailer, some have virtually nothing to stop them.
My son-in-law had this type of trailer, went to take it to a repairman for repairs. The repairman was on a very busy street.
In the night, to access the remoque, the thieves stole a truck in the parking lot of the pools trade across the street, smashed with it the barrier made of big pipes 2 "galvanized, stolen the trailer , Put the truck back in the parking lot of the pool trade and set fire to it in order to make diversion. Before the police noticed that there had been trailer flying across the street, the thieves had the time to be far away.
It was a trailer similar to this one:

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An adventure among others.
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:55 PM   #45
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Name: Peter
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
New Jersey
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Message Alarm

I'm thinking of designing the following alarm for my Casita.

A display hangs on the inside back window of Casita. A motion sensor detects when the Casita moves. I figure that I could display the following message "HELP: I have been stolen! Call Police" on the display. As the thieves drive down the road, some driver behind the Casita may take it as a joke or call the cops.
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Old 07-09-2017, 04:11 PM   #46
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Name: Peter
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
New Jersey
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Ring Cam

Another possibility is a Floodlight Cam from www.ring.com.

But, it is expensive and it would need some custom mounting so secure in the Casita while it guards motion by the hitch.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:10 AM   #47
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I agree with the wheel boot idea; I think you'd need a crane and huge flatbed to take it with a boot on!

My heart sank when I first read your post; so happy you found it!!
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:15 AM   #48
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I agree with the wheel boot idea; I think you'd need a crane and huge flatbed to take it with a boot on!
No crane needed.. just the flatbed tow truck. In my job I have seen plenty of vehicles winched onto flatbeds when the wheels were locked because they were damaged, etc. The tow truck has no trouble pulling the tire against the pavement, but of course it does destroy the tire.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:28 AM   #49
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No crane needed.. just the flatbed tow truck. In my job I have seen plenty of vehicles winched onto flatbeds when the wheels were locked because they were damaged, etc. The tow truck has no trouble pulling the tire against the pavement, but of course it does destroy the tire.
Yep a tilt flat bed with a winch will pull it right on up boot or no boot. A pair of $65 tire destroyed in order to steal a trailer worth around $10,000 still works for the thief.

You can make it harder, and sometimes that makes a thief choose another target. Or takes longer so something spooks them and they take off.

I'm planning a trip where we will do a lot of site seeing and be away from the camper. I figure the hitch cover or boot might be a wise purchase. Along with lock on safety chains. Won't make it theft proof but will prevent snatch and go.

Thing is a pop up will blend in, FGRV's are not as common and would stand out I would think.
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Old 08-05-2017, 11:10 PM   #50
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So awsome great ending bravo!
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:42 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post

On my boler American we've attached the safety chains using those threaded chain links. We can easily remove the chains when the trailer is parked.

I also put a female trailer harness on the trailer so the wiring can be removed. When we tow, I use a length of cable with 2 males on it. One end connects to the tow vehicle the other to the trailer.

No chains and no lights makes it just a little bit more challenging to steal and not get noticed.
I like this idea!
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:44 PM   #52
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I never locked the safety chains but instead i used carabineers on both ends so i can lock the hitch and easily disconnect safety chains from the camper.
I like this idea.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:07 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
No crane needed.. just the flatbed tow truck. In my job I have seen plenty of vehicles winched onto flatbeds when the wheels were locked because they were damaged, etc. The tow truck has no trouble pulling the tire against the pavement, but of course it does destroy the tire.
Oh. Well, shows you what I know. I have a double hitch lock and a boot. If I'm in a state or national park or an RV park, is there a of real danger of getting it stolen? Go easy; remember ~ I'm new to trailers altogether.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:14 PM   #54
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I like what Wayne Winton from Wayne's Lock Shop in Colorado says about locking a trailer. You need a Peweg Security Chain With ASSA Stanley High Security Lock Padlock run through the wheel and around the trailer frame.
Well I guess this isn't as secure as it seems if a flat bed can just take it away.

Back to the drawing board...I'm going to have to rethink this whole keeping it safe issue.......
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:28 PM   #55
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Buy full replacement insurance and relax.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:34 PM   #56
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I do have a hitch lock that cost about $12. Its main function is to ensure the hitch stays locked on the ball when towing.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:53 AM   #57
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Casita Stolen! (Massachusetts)

Most trailers are stolen while they are stored, not while they are in use.

Full replacement insurance is available if you have a newer unit. For a restored vintage unit, an agreed value policy is an alternative, but it may take some wrangling (and possibly an appraisal) to get an insurer to agree to an acceptable value. For the rest with ordinary actual cash value policies, some thought to security is prudent.

A heavy duty cable and lock from the axle to a ring mounted in concrete is probably the best security for a trailer in storage, but it's not always possible.

Several layers of security are better than a single device- wheel boot, coupler lock (the kind that blocks the ball opening), and safety chains wrapped and locked. Pretty much any security device can be defeated, but the goal is to slow thieves down enough to convince them to move on to a softer target. In addition to other measures, we always have one vehicle parked blocking the trailer, so they'd have to deal with it first.

On the road a small lock on the coupler latch (as Glenn shows) and a locking pin on the drawbar are good to keep things together and to deter petty vandalism. I also use my coupler lock when I'm unhitched in a campground, although that's probably the least likely place for a trailer theft to occur.

All this may sound compulsive, but I didn't spend a lot of money, and the devices I have are simple to use. I certainly don't lose sleep over the possibility of a theft.
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