Cheap Olympian Wave3 Catalytic Heater - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-17-2008, 09:18 PM   #29
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Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
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I installed a vent to the outside, which runs behind the heater through the closet. The vent can be seen next to the door in this photo:

This is a nice arrangment, as it gives the required "low vent" for the heater, and I only need to crack a window or else the roof vent a 1/2 inch to get the required ventilation.
Hi Jake. I tried to visualize your setup earlier, as I'm 90% sure I'll be mounting mine there also. I looked at mounting it on the door below the bench seat, but I'm afraid it will be kicked there and will interfere with the fridge door. So, regarding your vent....where does it vent to, inside the trailer? While I'm not here looking at the back of the heater, I don't think there is any fresh air intake there. So is this just an intake that allows fresh air into the trailer, same as cracking a lower window open? How does the fresh air make its way out of the closet? Or am I missing the point? I could envision a fresh air hose connected across the closet to some sort of opening beneath the heater, however.

Thanks for posting!

Parker
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:45 AM   #30
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Trailer: Scamp 16 ft and Trillium 4500
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Hi Parker -

I would worry about it mounted on a door, too. The flexible hose could get damaged from opening and closing the door or moving/unhooking the heater constantly. The heater fits just right under the closet, and gives a very central location. I found it heats very efficiently from under the closet.

The vent has a flexible tube that runs through the closet to another vent just under the heater. In retrospect, it would have been easier to not include the tube, and just use some of those rubber or felt cabinet door stops on the closet - just enough to let air leak around the door. Then no tube and secondary vent to worry about.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:24 AM   #31
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Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
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Hi Parker -

I would worry about it mounted on a door, too. The flexible hose could get damaged from opening and closing the door or moving/unhooking the heater constantly. The heater fits just right under the closet, and gives a very central location. I found it heats very efficiently from under the closet.

The vent has a flexible tube that runs through the closet to another vent just under the heater. In retrospect, it would have been easier to not include the tube, and just use some of those rubber or felt cabinet door stops on the closet - just enough to let air leak around the door. Then no tube and secondary vent to worry about.
Hello, I am new to this forum, but have been following this link with much interest. I just purchased a 1977 13' scamp and am planning on using it for winter camping/ice fishing. I purchased a wave 6 after reading your posts, and really appreciate your willingness to share info. I am planning on mounting my heater under the closet but was wondering if you could just use the recessed mounting kit, which would place the heater body inside the panel where the air intake leads, and thus provide the heater with an oxygen supply. You could then construct a panel to cap off the bottom part of the cabinet, and keep the items in your closet from becoming as cold as the outside air. All of this depends upon if the heater would draw air from behind the element or from the front.

After reading your initial posts on this topic, I had assumed that the air intake led directly to a vent in the back of the heater. Now I see that the air vent just leads to a port in the camper. Maybe this venting is not even necessary if you have an alternative vent like the gap I have at the bottom of my entrance door.

Thanks again for the free flow of information and ideas. This scamp modification thing is fun and addictive, I would appreciate any info from fellow scamp owners who use theirs as a mobile ice house in the winter months.
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