checking out a scamp in albert lea MN? and cost to install heater? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-03-2011, 08:00 PM   #15
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
Oregon
Posts: 316
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Originally Posted by kootenaigirl View Post
David (or anyone else!) sounds like you have been researching furnaces. I want to add one to our Scamp 16 that does not have one at present. I am undecided about seeing if Lill Snoozy has any left or going with the Atwood 8012 that has the 1.8 amp draw. We would be mainly boondocking so wondering if I would regret going with the higher amp draw over the long run even though the furnace is about $200 cheaper. We would mainly be camping for weekends with the occasional longer trip. I just have 1 battery at present.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Well, I was going to do a thread on the conversion when I get the parts, but I'll let the cat out of the bag. The 7912 and 8012 are identical except for 2 parts: the blower motor and the room air fan. The combustion fan is the same. I have the part numbers here somewhere. Change those parts and you have an 8012. Lil Snoozies deal with the conversion parts is still about $150 cheaper than a new 8012, plus now you have a new spare motor to sell. The 7912 draws 3.4 amps and has the bigger motor so that it can support multiple exits (up to 3) for the room air through optional ducts. If you convert to 8012 you just use the front discharge and leave the ducts blanked off. My Suburban drew similar current and would run 5 to 7 days on a G27 battery, with no other significant draws (LED lights and water pump). The smaller motor should extend that almost double. It should be even quieter as well.

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Originally Posted by Karalyn View Post
If boondocking that furnace will need a good battery fully charged. I boondocked once and furnace did not even last the night because the battery went dead at 5 AM (it was snowing outside). The way I understand it you need electricity to make the furnace work.
Karalyn, I think something else was going on. Probably your battery was run down a good bit to start with. No way the furnace will run a charged battery dead over night. Mine pretty much always goes 5 days and sometimes a bit longer on a charge. Yes, you do need electricity to run the blower motor and a wee bit to run the electronics.

David
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:11 PM   #16
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Name: j
Trailer: in the market
Colorado
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Yes, you do need electricity to run the blower motor and a wee bit to run the electronics.

David
Wait now I am confused! I thought these furnaces could run strictly on battery and propane? Like with the old coleman pup we have, we can go a few nights using our forced air furnace without ANY electricity at all (because we also boondock only). So you are saying that you can't do this with these furnaces or am I misunderstanding?

(we just use the typical 12v marine deep cycle and make sure to trickle charge for a few days before we go so it is really charged)
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:41 PM   #17
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Name: David
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Wait now I am confused! I thought these furnaces could run strictly on battery and propane? Like with the old coleman pup we have, we can go a few nights using our forced air furnace without ANY electricity at all (because we also boondock only). So you are saying that you can't do this with these furnaces or am I misunderstanding?

(we just use the typical 12v marine deep cycle and make sure to trickle charge for a few days before we go so it is really charged)
Sorry if I confused you! That stuff coming out of the battery IS electricity . Yep, the furnaces all run on 12V from the battery. Mostly it is to run the blower which only runs part time.

David
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:56 PM   #18
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Sorry if I confused you! That stuff coming out of the battery IS electricity . Yep, the furnaces all run on 12V from the battery. Mostly it is to run the blower which only runs part time.

David
oh-- ha ha ha! Goes to show you how much I really know about this stuff! Soooo.... we can definitely go somewhere where we don't have to plug into the grid and we just have a battery and propane and we can most likely get away with a few nights of furnace use, as long as we do not use lights/etc. too much. And to further clarify, you are saying that this atwood battery from lil snoozy would be less of a drain on a battery than pretty much any other comparable furnace?
gawd I almost think I should just get one to get one, even if we don't end up getting the albert lea scamp with no furnace...

think asking for a "maybe not needed" new furnace (on top of the used casita or scamp I am already begging for for x-mas) is too much?
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:16 PM   #19
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
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oh-- ha ha ha! Goes to show you how much I really know about this stuff! Soooo.... we can definitely go somewhere where we don't have to plug into the grid and we just have a battery and propane and we can most likely get away with a few nights of furnace use, as long as we do not use lights/etc. too much. And to further clarify, you are saying that this atwood battery from lil snoozy would be less of a drain on a battery than pretty much any other comparable furnace?
gawd I almost think I should just get one to get one, even if we don't end up getting the albert lea scamp with no furnace...

think asking for a "maybe not needed" new furnace (on top of the used casita or scamp I am already begging for for x-mas) is too much?
The furnace Snoozy has (the 7912) draws 3.4 amps which is typical of all these furnaces, however, that furnace can be easily converted to the model 8012 for under $100. The 8012 is VERY low draw >> 1.8 amps. I'm a boondocker too, so that is what I'm doing. I don't know of any other option that draws so little current. I think that is why it was carried to Mt. Everest. With a decent solar panal to top off the battery, you could run the 8012 basically forever if you had the gas.
Snoozy bought these before they decided to go all electric, so they are selling them for a price you will never beat. Even if you don't do the low amp conversion, the 7912 is still a quieter furnace than the Suburban and a little easier on gas. I have no dog in this hunt, but you can google "Atwood Everest 7912-II" or "Atwood Everest 8012-II" and compare prices. Also, they usually don't come with a thermostat, I don't think. Snoozy throws one in. I'm not trying to talk you into anything, just telling you what I have found.

David
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:06 AM   #20
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Name: kootenai girl
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British Columbia
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Oh that really interesting David, I am so glad I posted! Can't wait for your installation post, the more detail the better. Also the part #'s and where you got them would be great. Also do you think this is something an 'average person' could tackle? Thnaks so much.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:50 AM   #21
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Seems some of the issues here involve operating the furnace off a partially discharged battery. Every rv should have one of these, it is like a gas gauge for your car. It tells you how much gas "juice" is in your battery. If it drops below 11.9 volts it will send an alarm. Before turning in at night look at how much you have in your battery, if it is low then the furnace will draw it down, if high, you should have no problems. You wouldn't drive your car low on gas, so why attempt to boondock low on juice.
Volt Minder 12 Volt Battery Alarm from Universal Power | ChargingChargers.com
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:59 AM   #22
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Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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It's interesting that it's set to alarm at 11.9 volts, the level of a fully discharged battery.
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:18 AM   #23
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It's interesting that it's set to alarm at 11.9 volts, the level of a fully discharged battery.
you can set it at any level....
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:43 AM   #24
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
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Originally Posted by kootenaigirl View Post
Oh that really interesting David, I am so glad I posted! Can't wait for your installation post, the more detail the better. Also the part #'s and where you got them would be great. Also do you think this is something an 'average person' could tackle? Thnaks so much.
I haven't opened mine up yet, but it looks to be very simple to swap the parts.

RE:voltmeter>>
I have a Xantrex link system to install in my trailer. It's a leftover from a previous trailer project. Much more expensive than the voltmeter with more features. It measures actual current in and out. The voltmeter shown should be in every trailer IMO. It's a lot of bang for the buck. As Harley said, imagine having to rock the car to hear the gas slosh because no gauge was installed

David
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