Classic Scamp Failure - Page 8 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-28-2014, 09:14 AM   #99
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The first picture shows one of the added brackets that will allow us to bolt the Scamp's floor to the stiffened beam.

The second picture shows the Scamp's beam sandwich between a 16*3*1/2" piece of steel plate and a 18*3*1/4" C channel, the C channel's flanges are 1/4 " thick and 1.5ď wide. Both pieces have been shape to match the original curve of the Scamp's beam. As well the crack and break in the original beam's were welded closed before installation of the plate and C channel.

The third picture provides a view of the new steel Sandwich more clearly showing the C channel.
Attached Thumbnails
1390921408851.jpg   1390921447657.jpg  

1390921490968.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:30 AM   #100
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Thanks to Norm and all the input regarding frame issues. It's easy to involve oneself with the cosmetic fun stuff and putting off some of structural/mechanical concerns as this thread has brought to light. That being said, should one consider being proactive reinforcing some of the frame areas as opposed to "wait and see"? Especially in the older fiberglass trailers? I too have a 16' Scamp that i will have to wait a couple of months before i can closely examine.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:16 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey View Post
That being said, should one consider being proactive reinforcing some of the frame areas as opposed to "wait and see"?
I am convinced that these events start as fatigue breaks, and it is possible to keep ahead of them, proactively. All airplanes you ever fly are treated that way - their structures are inspected regularly. The trick is to know where to look. From this thread you know about one of the critical areas, at least. It is good to check the underside anyway, a mechanic's creeper would be handy. (I have used an old snowboard for years, it slides even better on rough ground.) A steel brush could be used to remove rust or loose paint to reveal the progressing break. Then it is still possible to limp to a welding shop and make it easier to repair.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:13 PM   #102
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[QUOTE=Paul O.;439221] It is good to check the underside anyway, a mechanic's creeper would be handy. (I have used an old snowboard for years, it slides even better on rough ground.)

Retired truck mechanic here, and own at least 4 creepers, one of them being the extra low and supposedly good for rough ground Bone creepers that sells for over $100. Instead of the creepers, and for low ground clearance vehicles I will use large pieces of cardboard to lay on. Cardboard from an appliance box is good, washer or dryer or a refrigerator. When under a vehicle, especially if you are going to wire brush or scrape, wear goggles or safety glasses to keep dirt and rust out of your eyes.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:09 PM   #103
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The next thing to do is to get a 8-track tape of
Willie Nelson singing "On The Road Again."

Might take on a whole new meaning...............LOL
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:16 PM   #104
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Of course we have "on the road"

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Old 01-28-2014, 08:25 PM   #105
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On point against rubberized undercoating is it often doesn't display frame fatigue. The rubber stretches and covers frame cracks. Looking at the frame should be a maintenance issue every single year (at least).
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:31 PM   #106
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Inspection

I'm under my trailer all the time. We have 5 storage containers connected to the bottom of our Scamp's floor so I'm regular under there. As well I paint under there every year. Unfortunately I did not catch it.

I think it takes a more intelligent viewing than I have done in the past. As well I think a crack could develop very rapidly. On our trip to Labrador we had a 1/4 inch piece of steel fracture on a brand new hitch in less than 2 months. It didn't have the potential for severe damage but it happened quickly.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:29 PM   #107
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As for intelligent viewing, my problem is that with bifocals it's hard to get something in focus that is inches from my nose. I put trailers up on a set of solid wood ramps that we used in a truck repair shop to get a little more working room, and use a good bright work light.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:15 AM   #108
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One additional thought.

The floor is held to the frame with thru floor screws which rapidly pulled out. In fact it amounted to 2 screws per beam.

As shown in a previous post we've added tabs that will allow us to bolt the floor to the frame using big washers and hefty bolts. Hopefully this will provide a little additional time margin.

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Old 01-29-2014, 08:31 AM   #109
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Right after I checked out the frame of mine I started thinking about how I'd remake the frame. First heavier gauge material and 2 foot longer tongue.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:50 AM   #110
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Norm, sounds awesome! Yeah having a southern 2nd home sounds good... get to stay away from the freezing weather we are having up north lol.

Best of Luck!
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:51 AM   #111
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Missed Advanced Warning

I missed an early warning sign.

I look thru the Honda's rear window via the rear view mirror and can see the window's heating element against the rock shield latches. I use this visual guide to see if the trailer's level.

Now that we've had the frame repaired it appears that this line has moved about an inch compared to pre-repair. I bet this line changed over time, un-noticed by me.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:35 PM   #112
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Here is a unique idea if frame troubles plague owners of older FGRV's.

1956 Mercury Canned Ham vintage trailer

With the right trailer, there is room enough to carry extras if needed.
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