does EVERYONE do most of the work on their campers or am i the only one... - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-10-2013, 11:54 PM   #29
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
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I know here, it's $105/hr labor. My '84 scamp would be over $30k now.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:18 AM   #30
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Name: KAYAK
Trailer: 2007 casita freedom deluxe-2013 tacoma
New Hampshire
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thx carl-i guess the key for me is to find a shop i can really trust. cuz its not just that i cant do it...i dont have a clue. and honestly-i dont want to. (hope you all dont kick me off for saying that)

i love my camper cuz i cant even walk long distances anymore - but with it i can go where i want with out a problem.

i had a barn full of horses for 50 yrs too...and when i had to break that up because of health it was the hardest thing i had ever had to do. but i learned to lease horses where i get to ride and someone else gets to do the work. i guess the camper thing is sort of like that.

just gotta look at things a little differently.

" I diagnosed it in the chair,"

i know how that feels too... a lot of stuff is still in my brain...but the other parts of my body dont do what they're told

and this: "They paid me for what I knew, not what I
learned."

i applaud you for that...i worked really hard all my life and i have a lot of trouble with many workers today...
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:48 AM   #31
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Name: KAYAK
Trailer: 2007 casita freedom deluxe-2013 tacoma
New Hampshire
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UNBELIEVABLE!!! the last shop caused the problem. there are melted wires etc behind fuse box. it will cost 300-500 just to fix that. i dont think new shop will testify although they will have to write up what they found and did. the tech from the other shop told me clearly some things he did and when i told the new shop they said that would cause it. i PAID that shop 700.00 to break my camper. what a nightmare.

i hate lawyer stuff. maybe small claims will work. i really need this camper to live in now because the weather has changed and i need to do reno on the house. i dont need ALL the elec to work...but i need it to not do more damage.

are the 2 systems totally separate? if the battery is not there can i plug in and have everything work except the brakes?

i dont like drama either but it seems like i just keep bringing it here.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:40 AM   #32
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Kayak, SORRY to hear the saga continues. If the the first place you went to that caused the problem is a member of the Better Business Bureau you could try going through them first to resolve your issue.

I also recommend if you havent already done so, print off the PDF of your trailers manual and keep a copy of it in the trailer. Having a manual in the trailer with a wiring and water diagram comes in very handy if/when you have problems and you are having to use a repair shop that is not familiar with your brand of trailer. Have had to use repair shops to correct electrical issues twice while traveling both occasions I got a big THANKS from the repair person when I was able to pull out an electrical diagram and tell them that the trailer is wired per the manual & that no DYI changes been made other than to connectors & the addition of an outlet which is shown on the diagram.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:20 PM   #33
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Name: KAYAK
Trailer: 2007 casita freedom deluxe-2013 tacoma
New Hampshire
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thx carol. around here all BBB does is make a list of reports. and you can call to check out a business. but BBB doesnt help you get $ back i dont think.

i did print out the diagrams you sent and took them to new shop and they appreciated it.

i will see if i can priint the whole thing. that makes sense.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #34
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Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2002 Casita Freedom Deluxe,The driveway is a Dark & Lonely Place now!
Missouri
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Well I will agree with one thing,it is truly unbelievable?
I am not sure however which part you mean?

How can you know who did what without having documented lists of the problem?

NO DO NOT USE ANY OF IT UNLESS YOU CAN TELL US AND KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM IS.

The converter connects both the 120vac power and the 12vdc power systems together and uses 1 to charge the other and run the 12vdc loads.

So with no idea what is wrong and with you claiming melted wires I would not connect any power until you can be sure of what is what.

I know it is frustrating but surely you can find or already know someone you can trust there to decode this mystery for you?

Don't take a chance and burn yourself down!


Quote:
Originally Posted by lpk49 View Post
UNBELIEVABLE!!! the last shop caused the problem. there are melted wires etc behind fuse box. it will cost 300-500 just to fix that. i dont think new shop will testify although they will have to write up what they found and did. the tech from the other shop told me clearly some things he did and when i told the new shop they said that would cause it. i PAID that shop 700.00 to break my camper. what a nightmare.

i hate lawyer stuff. maybe small claims will work. i really need this camper to live in now because the weather has changed and i need to do reno on the house. i dont need ALL the elec to work...but i need it to not do more damage.

are the 2 systems totally separate? if the battery is not there can i plug in and have everything work except the brakes?

i dont like drama either but it seems like i just keep bringing it here.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpk49 View Post
thx carol. around here all BBB does is make a list of reports. and you can call to check out a business. but BBB doesnt help you get $ back i dont think.

.
While the BBB will not help you get your money back by simple filing a formal complete the company has an obligation to give you a response and attempt to resolve the issue with you within a set amount of time. Those complaints are public for anyone to see so most companies will try to resolve a customer complaint rather than let it sit out there unresolved. Worth a try. Cheaper than a lawyer.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:21 PM   #36
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New Hampshire
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carol-i can do that. i still need to know this: can i plug in and have my electrical work -all except the brakes of course. can i do this with no battery. thx.

ed-i dont do any work on the camper. there are 2 shops involved. i'm sorry if i dont express myself clearly. the camper is at the new shop now. they determined there was no inverter or converter problem. a lot of elec works but one fuse kept blowing. so he pulled the fuse box and found the melted wires.

im still deciding what to so. but the first shop did some damage by trying to hook up the battery wrong.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:24 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post
Well I will agree with one thing,it is truly unbelievable?
I am not sure however which part you mean?

How can you know who did what without having documented lists of the problem?

NO DO NOT USE ANY OF IT UNLESS YOU CAN TELL US AND KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM IS.

The converter connects both the 120vac power and the 12vdc power systems together and uses 1 to charge the other and run the 12vdc loads.

So with no idea what is wrong and with you claiming melted wires I would not connect any power until you can be sure of what is what.

I know it is frustrating but surely you can find or already know someone you can trust there to decode this mystery for you?

Don't take a chance and burn yourself down!
Ed I agree - find the problem , repair the problem , test ,then energize
My question is which wire behind the inverter burned . Fuse size is chosen to protect the wiring so if these are fused circuits (3 fuses were blown AC or DC ?) how did the wiring get hot enough to melt . The DC from the battery is fused , the AC wiring has breakers for overcurrent protection.
Did the insulation deteriorate or melt or did the copper conductors melt?
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #38
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Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2002 Casita Freedom Deluxe,The driveway is a Dark & Lonely Place now!
Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpk49 View Post
carol-i can do that. i still need to know this: can i plug in and have my electrical work -all except the brakes of course. can i do this with no battery. thx.

ed-i dont do any work on the camper. there are 2 shops involved. i'm sorry if i dont express myself clearly. the camper is at the new shop now. they determined there was no inverter or converter problem. a lot of elec works but one fuse kept blowing. so he pulled the fuse box and found the melted wires.

im still deciding what to so. but the first shop did some damage by trying to hook up the battery wrong.
I am not arguing or judging the way you are describing this really but I am cautioning you against plugging 1/2 of anything in which is exactly what you asked about.

It would certainly help if you could be more precise and specific but I appreciate if you can not which is why I urged you to find someone else there that you know that can and will on your behalf.

Aside from that it is impossible to accept what you are telling us here at face value.
If you don't understand what they are telling you then why do you believe what they are telling you.
If they say now that the wires are melted why would they let you connect anything?
They wouldn't I hope!

I am trying to impress on you to be careful first.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:01 PM   #39
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Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
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Originally Posted by lpk49 View Post
i PAID that shop 700.00 to break my camper. what a nightmare.
Yes, I do almost all the work on my vehicles, home, campers, etc. When I hear reports like this, I know why.

The problem is that in my later years, now, health conditions are making it difficult to continue in this way. Reports like this don't help me negotiate the transition.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:09 PM   #40
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Trailer: Parkliner
Florida
Posts: 145
I wish we had the knowledge, time to do everything on our own. We are short on both, but I hope over time, develop more knowledge. It was naive of me to think buying a new trailer meant we would be free from work at least at first. But the desire and appetite is there, so each experience adds to our stockpile of knowledge.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:32 PM   #41
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Everything we read, everything we do, everything we learn goes into our memory banks. I think it's important (to me) to know as much about my trailer as I can. If for no other reason, I'll know when someone is jerking me around.

Maybe it's because I'm a golden age female, but I remember the days of taking a car to the mechanic and getting totally ripped off. No more if I can help it. No one will ever tell me that because the brakes are squeaking they need to be greased. And yes in the good old days, those types of fixes had been suggested. Although I may never have the strength or total knowledge to "grease" the brakes, I'll know when it needs to be done.

Knowledge is power!
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:57 PM   #42
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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My thoughts are that a shop is not always near or open. There is a good paperback on 12V by Harold Barre and a testing meter can had cheaply. Cheap insurance in my books both can be had for less than $50.
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