Equalizer Bars - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-21-2018, 02:43 PM   #15
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my '02 F250 can easily tow my escape 21 at 4200 lbs or whatever, without any WDH... putting 500 or 600 lbs in hte back of that truck and the factory overload leaf helper spring doesn't even touch its brackets. I think the truck rides level when it has about 1000 lbs in back (btw, its a 8' long bed). factory says WDH recommended above 6500 lb trailer, max 12500 lb trailer, max 2000 lb payload in truck

the 7.3 turbodiesel gets 13-15 MPG towing, no matter how much junk I'm carrying
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:10 PM   #16
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If you really think that anti-sway bars and wdh hitches are good safety item, why aren't required in at least one State?
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:19 PM   #17
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I tow a 25 foot Bigfoot with a Chevy 2500 diesel. I suggest that you weigh your vehicle and trailer when you take delivery. My Bigfoot has a lot of tongue weight, several hundred pounds of which are redistributed to the front tires of my truck and to the trailer when using my Equalizer hitch. Tows fine without the hitch, but I prefer to have that weight back on the front tires.
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
If you really think that anti-sway bars and wdh hitches are good safety item, why aren't required in at least one State?

I have no clue why you are so invested in trying to convince people that they shouldn't use a WDH or sway bars. What's it to you?

If it works for those of us that use them and if we feel it's worth the money, what's your problem?
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:28 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I have no clue why you are so invested in trying to convince people that they shouldn't use a WDH or sway bars. What's it to you?

If it works for those of us that use them and if we feel it's worth the money, what's your problem?

I can ask you the same question. Safety and equipement wear and tear are concern. SO WHAT IT TO YOU WHAT I THINK OR TRY TO CONVIENCE SOMEBODY?
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:56 PM   #20
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FWIW, on my 2010 F150, a WDH is required for tongue weight above 500 pounds.

Chart is on page 29.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources...0RVTrailer.pdf


I would suggest you look for a similar manufacturer's document for your year and model truck.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:11 PM   #21
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I've never used or needed an anti-sway device and it may have partially been because I tend to have heavy, full sized trucks.

All trailers sway. Sway is not just the uncontrolled increasing type, it's just normal movement. Cross winds, passing trucks, ruts and steering inputs are a few things that initiate it, but the trailer should settle down within a couple of cycles. In fact, I test mine by making it do it and judging how quickly it returns to straight and stable.

I have never seen some specific speed at which sway is unavoidable. I'm sure 30 is safer than 60, but that doesn't mean 70 is a guaranteed crash or that there is a magic number where uncontrolled sway is guaranteed. And as far as towing at 55-60 MPH, try towing at that speed in some rural areas where the traffic is going 70-80. Idaho is a good example of two lane roads with semi-trucks and everyone else going way faster than I think they should. It's hard to say if keeping up is more dangerous than constantly being passed. Fortunately, my Oliver tows like it's on rails and I have never seen a speed that was inherently unstable.

Make sure the trailer brakes are working properly and set them to be slightly more aggressive than the tow vehicle. Know how to apply them manually at the controller, if needed, as that is how you fix uncontrolled sway. If your trailer seems "busy" back there, get an anti-sway device for peace of mind. Distribute the weight properly and be careful about putting weight on the rear bumper of the trailer. Or just don't put it there at all. Tow with a vehicle that is not near it's maximum tow rating, it's much better to have too much truck, than not enough. Have stiff trailer tires that are aired up properly. Try to pick a trailer that has no designed in weight distribution problems, such as a large water tank in the front or too much rear overhang. If it's a choice between a tandem axle and a single axle, pick the tandem. Etc, etc. Most of this is common sense stuff. I try to avoid any special hitches partly because they are a hassle and I disconnect and re-connect a lot. Just takes a minute and we are free to wander without the trailer. I also don't want to buy that complicated thing just as insurance. If I need it, fine, but if I don't, I don't.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #22
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I've never used or needed an anti-sway device and it may have partially been because I tend to have heavy, full sized trucks.

All trailers sway. Sway is not just the uncontrolled increasing type, it's just normal movement. Cross winds, passing trucks, ruts and steering inputs are a few things that initiate it, but the trailer should settle down within a couple of cycles. In fact, I test mine by making it do it and judging how quickly it returns to straight and stable.

I have never seen some specific speed at which sway is unavoidable. I'm sure 30 is safer than 60, but that doesn't mean 70 is a guaranteed crash or that there is a magic number where uncontrolled sway is going to happen. And as far as towing at 55-60 MPH, try towing at that speed in some rural areas where the traffic is going 70-80. Idaho is a good example of two lane roads with semi-trucks and everyone else going way faster than I think they should. It's hard to say if keeping up is more dangerous than constantly being passed. Fortunately, my Oliver tows like it's on rails and I have never seen a speed that was inherently unstable.

Make sure the trailer brakes are working properly and set them to be slightly more aggressive than the tow vehicle. Know how to apply them manually at the controller, if needed, as that is how you fix uncontrolled sway. If your trailer seems "busy" back there, get an anti-sway device for peace of mind. Distribute the weight properly and be careful about putting weight on the rear bumper of the trailer. Or just don't put it there at all. Tow with a vehicle that is not near it's maximum tow rating, it's much better to have too much truck, than not enough. Have stiff trailer tires that are aired up properly. Try to pick a trailer that has no designed in weight distribution problems, such as a large water tank in the front or too much rear overhang. If it's a choice between a tandem axle and a single axle, pick the tandem. Etc, etc. Most of this is common sense stuff. I try to avoid any special hitches partly because they are a hassle and I disconnect and re-connect a lot. Just takes a minute and we are free to wander without the trailer. I also don't want to buy that complicated thing just as insurance. If I need it, fine, but if I don't, I don't.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I can ask you the same question. Safety and equipement wear and tear are concern. SO WHAT IT TO YOU WHAT I THINK OR TRY TO CONVIENCE SOMEBODY?
When we get so excited that we have to SHOUT and in such a hurry to post that we ignore our spell check, maybe we need a time out.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:19 PM   #24
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Double post for emphasis?! Dunno.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:21 PM   #25
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When we get so excited that we have to SHOUT and in such a hurry to post that we ignore our spell check, maybe we need a time out.
Yep.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:27 PM   #26
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Casita 2018 Independence Dlx
Tennessee
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Talking 2 sway or not 2 sway? THAT izza thuh ??

LOL we do not choose to sway..we tow our Casita 17' with our 2017 Frontier v6 2wd, dbl cab, long bed truck w T cap of 6500 lbs and with a decent load in the truck bed. We tow at factory recomended 60-62 mph..with the factory-installed anti-sway bar No problemo since April when we picked it up at Rice TX factory..6000+ miles of happy camping this season so far. AS U can see in our pix she rides level.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:34 PM   #27
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Hey Byron, I just read your signature. Please review it.


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Old 12-21-2018, 05:39 PM   #28
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Did not use any WDH with my Oliver behind a 2500 Chevy diesel, but many in that community love their Andersens. Never felt any need for it, but tongue weight was 680#. My Bigfoot is nearly twice that, and the Equalizer really gets the weight off the hitch. Both trailers tow straight and true in all road and traffic conditions.
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