Equalizer Bars - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-26-2018, 02:29 PM   #57
Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Posts: 1,414
Why not cut off the part of the bracket that extends over the frame and not cut the fiberglass?
All you need is the part that bolts to the frame the rest that extends is superfluous.
". I have also had two tires blow out on the trailer with no control issues at all. ( The trailer is not overloaded, I check tire pressure before and during each trip, check temperatures at each stop, and have not had good luck with Good Year tires.)"
In my years of driving I don't believe I have ever worn out a Goodyear tire, but I have replaced a few due to separations and bulges.
For my tow cents worth a Goodyear should be used for a planter in the garden.

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Old 12-26-2018, 02:49 PM   #58
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John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
Name: John
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, 2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 4x4
Posts: 1,323
That's what I did on my Casita... Cut the stirrup brackets so they'd clear the propane bracket, then had master welder neighbor mig them on...

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Old 12-26-2018, 04:24 PM   #59
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Name: Jerry
Trailer: 72 cloud, old 80s scamp
Posts: 8
You probably have your answer already but I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in so everyone can laugh at me!
I HAD the equalizer hitch... I dropped one of the really solid heavy metal bars on my big toe and watched blood spit all over and shatter my toe! It was a really nice wdh for my half ton ram pulling a 7-8000 lb 28 ft camper.
I now have a 3/4 ton ram and 22 ft camper with no weight or sway stuff. If you can't afford the heavier vehicle then the camper, you may need to go with the weight distribution. I found it is a trial and error thing!
I can tell you it is VERY nice backing up to something with a camera and just hooking up and leaving. Makes life a little more simple!

P.S. even though a little heated it is nice seeing other people's thoughts/ideas!
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Old 12-26-2018, 04:42 PM   #60
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Glenn Baglo's Avatar
Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
Posts: 5,516
The aggravation of dragging my WDH out to the tow and hooking up for an occasional camping trip is nothing compared to the aggravation of trying to park an F250 every time I go to the local grocery store.
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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Old 12-26-2018, 05:33 PM   #61
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 28
Snark is an understatement

Anyway my two cents.

We bought a 2018 25 RQ, our TV is a 3/4 ton duramax. The tongue weight was reported at around 650LBS in all the information we could find. When we purchased our camper we fell into a good deal for a blue ox WDH we bought it and we are glad we did. The camper was delivered to us in the deep south from BC. The first time I hooked the camper to our TV it squated considerably more than it with our Escape 21. I don't mean it was sagging badly but it was lower. I then checked the tongue weight using a fulcrum method and it actually came close to 1100 LBS with tanks empty, don't remember what it was with them at full potable but that tank is forward of the axle. Our truck could handle this and sway would not be an issue at all. Anyway the WDH raised the rear axle and lowered the front. We use it for long trips and don't regret it.

Just so you know the delivery truck was a 1 ton dodge and he said he never used them, he towed it almost 3K miles for delivery! Get your trailer, weight it make your own mind up. Anything that helps reduce wear, tear and fatigue on my TV I'm good with.

my2 ! dammit they done away with the cents key

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