Frank & Gail's ParkLiner - Page 10 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-16-2013, 12:41 PM   #127
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30 amp RV inlet installed

Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!





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Old 11-16-2013, 01:15 PM   #128
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What could I replace this with that wouldn't crimp, or how do I get the crimps out? It's like this on both ends. The hose is very short and I'm not even sure I could get it off easily:

Go to the hardware store and find a light duty spring with an inside diameter equal to the outside diameter of the tubing. To get the hose off try heating with a hair dryer. Of course once the hose is off, a longer piece of tubing might not kink. Raz
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:03 PM   #129
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Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!


Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #130
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Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!
Nice looking job, Frank.
I think I'll end up doing something similar in the spring.
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:26 PM   #131
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Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?
Ya know Dave, hard to say. Everything seemed to work fine today. The hinge on this door is very solid. I think once the cord end is screwed on, it will be fine. I could cross brace it inside if I have to, but it would not be easy to do. I opted for the door because otherwise I would be disturbing insulation.

Frank
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:27 PM   #132
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Nice looking job, Frank.
I think I'll end up doing something similar in the spring.
Thanks Brian. I have a 2-7/8 hole saw ya can borrow. Things are scarcer than hen's teeth!

Frank
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:23 PM   #133
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Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?
I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-263513723.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	102.8 KB
ID:	66552

It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:48 PM   #134
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I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:

Attachment 66552

It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.
Jared, was the flexing because of the weight of the original cord? This sounds like a good idea, because I want an extension cord anyways.

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:55 PM   #135
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More due to stiffness of the cord making it stick out a ways from the camper, and putting the weight that far out. With the 90 on the new cord, there's no leverage on the receptacle any more.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:00 PM   #136
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Calmark cover

We have been pretty happy with the Calmark cover we got last August for our Parkliner. We did have to put a board and some cardboard on the roof to keep a puddle of water from forming but that was no big issue. Thanks for all the info on this thread!
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:01 AM   #137
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We have been pretty happy with the Calmark cover we got last August for our Parkliner. We did have to put a board and some cardboard on the roof to keep a puddle of water from forming but that was no big issue. Thanks for all the info on this thread!
You wouldn't have any photos of how you lay the board and cardboard on top would you? I see what you mean, what with an indented roof. No need to reinvent the wheel!

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #138
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I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:

Attachment 66552

It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.
Jared, the 90 elbow on the plug of your cord looks like it would really help to reduce the bending moment on the door caused by the cord, and should help to keep your door from getting damaged. Good solution.
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:46 PM   #139
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Our trailer got stayed in last night by our youngest son Billy & his girlfriend. They stayed nice & toasty & loved the bed. I think I'll leave it up on the front deck & try it out myself when everyone leaves.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

Frank
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Old 11-29-2013, 07:26 AM   #140
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Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?
You could always purchase the 90 degree extension to get the weight off the door:

Camco 55532 PowerGrip 18" 90 Degree 30 AMP Female/30 AMP Male RV Locking Adapter

30 AMP 90 Degree Right Angle Adapter
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RightAnglePowerCord.jpg  
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