Frank & Gail's ParkLiner - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-21-2013, 10:26 AM   #15
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Congrats to you both, nice looking trailer. And that little mishap is not a big deal, easy fix.
Thanks Tim! Hey, what # do you & Rita have?

Thanks again, as you two were a lot of the reason we were sold on these babies!

Frank
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #16
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I tried calling two RV places both about 10 miles away today to see if they had one of these compressor fitting for the fresh water fill. first one I was on hold more than 2 minutes, so hung up to call the other one to get a message they're helping other people. Hung up, went to Amazon, have one coming for $6.22, and a hot water tank rinser for less than 8 bucks. We pay to be Prime members because we live in the boonies and get so much stuff from them. UPS knows where we live, and all the guys are even friends with our dog!

Now if I could just figure out how to do (or buy) a bypass on the hot water heater. And as far as I can see, there is no drain for the fresh water tank. Pics later.

Frank
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:39 PM   #17
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Frank, maybe I am not seeing the extent of the damage to the stainless steel cook top. If it is just the damage as shown in the photo, isn't it possible that a body shop or one of the those paintless "dent doctors" could push that out for you if you took it to their shop?
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:48 PM   #18
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Frank, maybe I am not seeing the extent of the damage to the stainless steel cook top. If it is just the damage as shown in the photo, isn't it possible that a body shop or one of the those paintless "dent doctors" could push that out for you if you took it to their shop?
I know enough about metal work to know the metal has been stressed there and will not easily get back in shape. Maybe I'll give it a try, but the pic does not show from the side, and trust me, it is damaged badly. A dent dr. would probably cost more than the replacement top!

No response from ParkLiner since I emailed them yesterday morning.

Frank
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #19
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Since I know almost nothing about metal work, you are likely correct. I'm always amazed by what the dent docs can do though--probably too easily impressed. I was thinking that the replacement top was really expensive, too.

I really like your trailer, by the way. I am heading back to North Carolina for the winter months, and Park Liner is less than one hour away from my NC house. I'm looking forward to a visit there soon.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:57 PM   #20
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Since I know almost nothing about metal work, you are likely correct. I'm always amazed by what the dent docs can do though--probably too easily impressed. I was thinking that the replacement top was really expensive, too.

I really like your trailer, by the way. I am heading back to North Carolina for the winter months, and Park Liner is less than one hour away from my NC house. I'm looking forward to a visit there soon.
I still have not priced the cover. The microwave can't be used again, and they're 50 bucks. I'll check on the cover and post it when I can find one. I thought it would be simple, but apparently not. It would be great if ParkLiner would reply to my email too.

Frank
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #21
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Deryk, have you considered a retractable door sweep. Might need to be shortened to fit the width of your screen door. They work quite well.

MD Products 07039 36-Inch Aluminum Automatic Seal Door Sweep: Hardware : Walmart.com

Dan
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:22 PM   #22
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Thanks Dan something like that should work....just need to take a few measurements for height.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:41 PM   #23
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Since I know almost nothing about metal work, you are likely correct. I'm always amazed by what the dent docs can do though--probably too easily impressed. I was thinking that the replacement top was really expensive, too.

I really like your trailer, by the way. I am heading back to North Carolina for the winter months, and Park Liner is less than one hour away from my NC house. I'm looking forward to a visit there soon.
I just ordered a new cover through Amazon for $40 and change including shipping.

Thanks, we really like our trailer too. Except for this mishap, everything else seems to be fine, but of course, we haven't camped in it yet, and won't until spring. The quality of construction seems exceptional, and the cabinetry is really nice. Best of luck to you!

Frank
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:36 PM   #24
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Frank, I really don't remember but I'm thinking around #15. By the way I order a lot of stuff from Amazon , great place to buy most everything.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:09 PM   #25
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Frank, I really don't remember but I'm thinking around #15. By the way I order a lot of stuff from Amazon , great place to buy most everything.
Amazon sure is Tim, especially when ya live in the boonies like we do. Had 3 different orders from them today. They sure know what they're doing.

Frank
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:38 AM   #26
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Water heater bypass

Here are some pix of the set up on PL34. The first shows the shutoff valve at the cold water inlet to the water heater.
Click image for larger version

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The second shows the drain valve on the hot water side. This will drain most of the water out of the water heater, but not all. To get the rest, you have to pull the anode rod and use a 3/4" diameter piece of tubing duct taped to the hose on a wet/dry shop vac to suck out the rest plus any sediment.
Click image for larger version

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Finally I've included my basic pex tubing tool kit. Instead of using crimp rings, they make push on fittings but they are a bit pricey. I think ~$5 -6 for a single 90 degree elbow.
Click image for larger version

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The procedures I follow are here:
ParkLiner winterization? in the Parkliner winterization thread.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:44 AM   #27
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Here are some pix of the set up on PL34. The first shows the shutoff valve at the cold water inlet to the water heater.
Attachment 66011

The second shows the drain valve on the hot water side. This will drain most of the water out of the water heater, but not all. To get the rest, you have to pull the anode rod and use a 3/4" diameter piece of tubing duct taped to the hose on a wet/dry shop vac to suck out the rest plus any sediment.
Attachment 66012

Finally I've included my basic pex tubing tool kit. Instead of using crimp rings, they make push on fittings but they are a bit pricey. I think ~$5 -6 for a single 90 degree elbow.
Attachment 66013

The procedures I follow are here:
ParkLiner winterization? in the Parkliner winterization thread.
Excellent! Thanks Brian.

Tell me, maybe I'm missing something, but the pic with the drain valve seems like the valve is 1/2 way up the tank?

For all the PEX stuff I've done, I should buy a tool. I've probably spent more than the tool costs for push-on fittings.

Frank
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:54 AM   #28
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Tell me, maybe I'm missing something, but the pic with the drain valve seems like the valve is 1/2 way up the tank?

Frank
I was wondering that myself. What I assume is happening (and remember the inlet bypass is not closed when you are doing this) is that by opening the kitchen faucet valves, you are creating a siphon action which pulls the water out the the water heater. The end result when I pull the anode rod is that there is less that a half gal of water in there.

Of course, I've been wrong before. It could be happening again!
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