Frank & Gail's ParkLiner

[frank_a]

Resolved that today, or at least know how it's gonna get resolved. Need a few hardened mostly threaded 2" X 3/8" bolts and it will be done. Gets me the chain length I want and makes me much more comfortable. By the way, the steel the bolts go through is threaded too.

[deryk]

Looks Good, just like mine lol

[frank_a]

Thanks Deryk, you were my inspiration man! Took me a while, as I didn't realize the holes the bolts went through were threaded as well!

Frank

[frank_a]

Amazon is threatening to have my new 30 amp power inlet delivered tomorrow, but by the time it comes, it will be too darn dark to do much. Grrrr. Anyways, from checking out stuff over the weekend, looks like I may very well see if I can get this baby mounted right on the existing power cord door...

Other than that, we're doing great. Oh yeah, pics when I get this thing figured out!

Frank

[deryk]

What are you trying to do? And you look like you might be sick on wednesday

[frank_a]

I want a power inlet installed in the side of 006 instead of a power cable snaking through a hole that gives pests access to the area right under my bed. So I ordered the inlet that will get installed (hopefully) in that power cable door, and an end for the extra cable I'll have that will match up with the inlet. Inlet is male and has a threaded exterior, and the end I ordered for the cable matches up and is threaded as well, so when you're plugged in, there are no openings.

This stuff:

Amazon.com: Marinco 30 Amp Valox Marine Power Inlet: Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Marinco 305CRCN.VPK Marine Electrical Connector and Boot Value Pack (30-Amp, 125-Volt, Female): Sports & Outdoors

As you might imagine, I've done this before...

Frank

[deryk]

Yeah that is a good point...also I realized last year that when it gets cold the umbilical cord gets harder to shove back in through that door... I guess its another thing I will have to add.

I did on saturday pull my 2 batteries out and sit them on the tongue behind my already moved forward propane tanks...gonna be interesting...I was able to get the tongue weight down to 325lbs or so but I ended up moving about 40lbs of stuff into the trunk on the back of my ParkLiner to do that lol. I will have to drive with my generator and extra water jug in my Rav4 or the tongue weight would be way heavier then the rated 350lbs(suposedly 400 with the wdh)

[frank_a]

When I get this puppy tomorrow I'll know pretty quick if it's gonna fit on that door. I hope it does, it would make it immensely much more easy to do! So ya cut the 30 amp cable so ya gotta enough cable to run to the inlet, then you take the rest of that cable and make yourself up an independent 30 amp line. Trust me, it works much better, and little critters can't get in through that cable hole.

Hopefully today Calmark RV Covers will get back to me too, but we have to give them a break, as they're way out on da left coast!

Frank

[deryk]

and I can imagine the critters gettng inside because I had mine plugged in and noticed how much light was shining in around the wire.

[frank_a]

Ain't gonna be any light shining in mine Deryk! Hopefully that will be done by this coming weekend's end.

Frank

[frank_a]

Just so y'all know, Calmark quoted me $575 for a cover, and $85 to ship it here to the right coast.

We're moving ahead.

Frank

[Brian M. in NY]

Frank,
Please post pix of that power cord conversion. I measured mine and the opening is about 8 x 8 inches so I can't figure out how you are going to do it unless you mount the receptacle directly to the door. Which seems like pretty flimsy plastic to me. It's definitely something I want to do since I've already lost about a pound of skin fishing the power cable in and out of that door.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

Frank,
Please post pix of that power cord conversion. I measured mine and the opening is about 8 x 8 inches so I can't figure out how you are going to do it unless you mount the receptacle directly to the door. Which seems like pretty flimsy plastic to me. It's definitely something I want to do since I've already lost about a pound of skin fishing the power cable in and out of that door.

Well Brian, yes, I was planning on mounting it to the door. Actually it makes it much easier to do, mounting it to a hinged opening! I have not yet inspected the door closely to assess strength, though I was wondering about that. Keep in mind I've had this trailer less than 3 weeks, and I'm a working stiff! Plus with daylight savings time, it's dark when I get home. And cold!

I do not want to mount it anywhere other than the door, as there is a lot of insulation all around the area it might go. So maybe strengthen the door internally with some good plywood? That's the kind of thing I'm thinking about, but we'll see. For some reason, I can't find my 2-7/8 hole saw anyways, so that's kind of a hold-up at this point. Home Depot didn't have one when I stopped before work this morning, but there's still Lowe's. If they don't have it, I have friends who might, and failing that, can get one at an industrial supply in Albany or get one through Amazon. So bear with me. With any luck, I'll tackle it Saturday morning.

Frank

[deryk]

Just a thought but you might be able to get a scrap piece of starboard off of ebay, use 3m 5200 and glue it in on the inside of the hull where the door is, then mount the recepticle onto the starboard, so the door can be closed and not see the recepticle.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by deryk

Just a thought but you might be able to get a scrap piece of starboard off of ebay, use 3m 5200 and glue it in on the inside of the hull where the door is, then mount the recepticle onto the starboard, so the door can be closed and not see the recepticle.

If you're talking about plastic plywood Deryk, I have some 1/2" stuff at home. I buy it for boat stuff, and have a bunch of scrap from my last project. I hadn't even thought about that, so thanks, good thinkin. I'm sure I would have a large enough piece of scrap to "do" the inside of that door, and always have 5200 kicking around!

Frank

[Brian M. in NY]

Originally Posted by frank_a

I do not want to mount it anywhere other than the door, as there is a lot of insulation all around the area it might go. So maybe strengthen the door internally with some good plywood? That's the kind of thing I'm thinking about, but we'll see.
Frank

I think we're thinking in same direction here. I was considering a sheet of 1/4" lexan or maybe a couple layers of fiberglass cloth epoxied to the inside of the door but I'm thinking that any fiberglass/epoxy work will have to wait for warmer weather now. It was 19F the other morning although today it's back to a balmy 43.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

I think we're thinking in same direction here. I was considering a sheet of 1/4" lexan or maybe a couple layers of fiberglass cloth epoxied to the inside of the door but I'm thinking that any fiberglass/epoxy work will have to wait for warmer weather now. It was 19F the other morning although today it's back to a balmy 43.

While I agree epoxy may be out of the question this weekend Brian, I do know how to mix it hot. On the other hand, I don't want to!

I'm thinking the #8 stainless steel machine screws I'll use could also hold the backing, whatever it is, for now anyways. That's if I feel a need for it. Bottom line is the door has to be solid enough not to give when you're plugging the 30 amp cable in. If nothing else, I can take a flashlight out tonight and at least take a look and give this some more thought.

Frank

[frank_a]

This is what the regional battery guy at NAPA told me to do. 10 gauge wire and connectors for the two batteries, all stuff I had in my shop. And this battery maintainer. NAPA part # 85-300A.

[frank_a]

Well today I paid for the new Calmark cover for our ParkLiner and shipping charges (about $660 all together) so I could get in line for a cover. Right now they're running about 6 weeks out, but that will be twice as quick as what I would need to go through to get a building permit for a simple steel carport. I don't think they charge my card till they make the cover. They told me something like that, but I didn't get it. It is what it is!

Frank

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by frank_a

Well today I paid for the new Calmark cover for our ParkLiner and shipping charges (about $660 all together) so I could get in line for a cover. Right now they're running about 6 weeks out, but that will be twice as quick as what I would need to go through to get a building permit for a simple steel carport. I don't think they charge my card till they make the cover. They told me something like that, but I didn't get it. It is what it is!

Frank

Calmark quoted me about $600 for a cover for my Escape 19'. Once I factored in shipping and customs brokerage fees, it was likely going to cost about $800-$900. I decided to go with a cover from RV Covers for $183 plus shipping. Delivery was about a week and the quality seems good. Fit was not bad but the cover was a bit big. Here is my 19' after a bath and all tucked in under the covers and ready for bed.