Frank & Gail's ParkLiner - Page 9 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-06-2013, 08:15 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY View Post
Frank,
Please post pix of that power cord conversion. I measured mine and the opening is about 8 x 8 inches so I can't figure out how you are going to do it unless you mount the receptacle directly to the door. Which seems like pretty flimsy plastic to me. It's definitely something I want to do since I've already lost about a pound of skin fishing the power cable in and out of that door.
Well Brian, yes, I was planning on mounting it to the door. Actually it makes it much easier to do, mounting it to a hinged opening! I have not yet inspected the door closely to assess strength, though I was wondering about that. Keep in mind I've had this trailer less than 3 weeks, and I'm a working stiff! Plus with daylight savings time, it's dark when I get home. And cold!

I do not want to mount it anywhere other than the door, as there is a lot of insulation all around the area it might go. So maybe strengthen the door internally with some good plywood? That's the kind of thing I'm thinking about, but we'll see. For some reason, I can't find my 2-7/8 hole saw anyways, so that's kind of a hold-up at this point. Home Depot didn't have one when I stopped before work this morning, but there's still Lowe's. If they don't have it, I have friends who might, and failing that, can get one at an industrial supply in Albany or get one through Amazon. So bear with me. With any luck, I'll tackle it Saturday morning.

Frank
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:51 AM   #114
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Just a thought but you might be able to get a scrap piece of starboard off of ebay, use 3m 5200 and glue it in on the inside of the hull where the door is, then mount the recepticle onto the starboard, so the door can be closed and not see the recepticle.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:54 AM   #115
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Just a thought but you might be able to get a scrap piece of starboard off of ebay, use 3m 5200 and glue it in on the inside of the hull where the door is, then mount the recepticle onto the starboard, so the door can be closed and not see the recepticle.
If you're talking about plastic plywood Deryk, I have some 1/2" stuff at home. I buy it for boat stuff, and have a bunch of scrap from my last project. I hadn't even thought about that, so thanks, good thinkin. I'm sure I would have a large enough piece of scrap to "do" the inside of that door, and always have 5200 kicking around!

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Old 11-06-2013, 09:02 AM   #116
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I do not want to mount it anywhere other than the door, as there is a lot of insulation all around the area it might go. So maybe strengthen the door internally with some good plywood? That's the kind of thing I'm thinking about, but we'll see.
Frank
I think we're thinking in same direction here. I was considering a sheet of 1/4" lexan or maybe a couple layers of fiberglass cloth epoxied to the inside of the door but I'm thinking that any fiberglass/epoxy work will have to wait for warmer weather now. It was 19F the other morning although today it's back to a balmy 43.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:09 AM   #117
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I think we're thinking in same direction here. I was considering a sheet of 1/4" lexan or maybe a couple layers of fiberglass cloth epoxied to the inside of the door but I'm thinking that any fiberglass/epoxy work will have to wait for warmer weather now. It was 19F the other morning although today it's back to a balmy 43.
While I agree epoxy may be out of the question this weekend Brian, I do know how to mix it hot. On the other hand, I don't want to!

I'm thinking the #8 stainless steel machine screws I'll use could also hold the backing, whatever it is, for now anyways. That's if I feel a need for it. Bottom line is the door has to be solid enough not to give when you're plugging the 30 amp cable in. If nothing else, I can take a flashlight out tonight and at least take a look and give this some more thought.

Frank
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:54 PM   #118
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Optima battery charging (maintainer)

This is what the regional battery guy at NAPA told me to do. 10 gauge wire and connectors for the two batteries, all stuff I had in my shop. And this battery maintainer. NAPA part # 85-300A.





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Old 11-07-2013, 02:56 PM   #119
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Well today I paid for the new Calmark cover for our ParkLiner and shipping charges (about $660 all together) so I could get in line for a cover. Right now they're running about 6 weeks out, but that will be twice as quick as what I would need to go through to get a building permit for a simple steel carport. I don't think they charge my card till they make the cover. They told me something like that, but I didn't get it. It is what it is!

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Old 11-07-2013, 04:59 PM   #120
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Well today I paid for the new Calmark cover for our ParkLiner and shipping charges (about $660 all together) so I could get in line for a cover. Right now they're running about 6 weeks out, but that will be twice as quick as what I would need to go through to get a building permit for a simple steel carport. I don't think they charge my card till they make the cover. They told me something like that, but I didn't get it. It is what it is!

Frank
Calmark quoted me about $600 for a cover for my Escape 19'. Once I factored in shipping and customs brokerage fees, it was likely going to cost about $800-$900. I decided to go with a cover from RV Covers for $183 plus shipping. Delivery was about a week and the quality seems good. Fit was not bad but the cover was a bit big. Here is my 19' after a bath and all tucked in under the covers and ready for bed.
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #121
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What can I say? It's not hard to find cheaper covers, I wanted something custom fit that would last. So that's what I did. I don't mind waiting. This instant gratification world we live in is NOT the world I grew up in! I adapt best I can.

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Old 11-09-2013, 01:03 PM   #122
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Cutting the cord, putting an end on

I started the 30 amp inlet project today by cutting the 30 amp cable coming from the trailer:





Next was slipping the cut end of the cable through my new female end (make sure you put the black screw-on part on 1st!):



Once that was done, I cut the cable back 1-1/4", and stripped the wires 5/8":



Then it was wrestling the three 10 gauge wires in. Wrestling because white was on the "wrong" side in the 3 wire bundle and I couldn't move it around:



Everything goes back together, taking care to get the tab where it fits:



Finally, everything is snug, and here it is screwed onto the 30 amp male outlet that soon will be mounted in the electrical access door of the trailer. I need a 2-7/8 hole saw to do that, and apparently they're rarer than hen's teeth. I did locate one in Albany I can get Monday morning:



More later...

Frank
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:41 PM   #123
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Last ParkLiner project of the day - got all the correct grade 8 hardware for the jack, and to hold down my chains on the back two bolts. Done for da day, and good thing too, out of daylight.

Frank
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:41 AM   #124
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Backing plate for power inlet

Keep in mind, anybody else doing this, if you use the power cord door as I'm doing, the backing plate needs to fit the inner opening, NOT the door dimensions. As you can see here, I have a piece of luan cut that just fits in, not tight, not loose. I may just use the 4 attachment stainless steel machine screws that mount the inlet to tie everything together (i.e., no glue):

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Old 11-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #125
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Crimped shower drain hose

What could I replace this with that wouldn't crimp, or how do I get the crimps out? It's like this on both ends. The hose is very short and I'm not even sure I could get it off easily:

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Old 11-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #126
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Wiring questions

I found where my 7 wire cable goes into the trailer on the curb side right up front. It's goes through a bulkhead fitting that keeps it in place and well sealed. I think I found the wires in my converter/battery/water tank compartment. Aren't these them?



Is there a terminal panel anywhere in a ParkLiner that makes it easy to find wires and hook into them, like for a Bragman switch?

Looking under the trailer is even more bewildering. I thought blue was for brakes, but I guess it's ground here?

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