Frank & Gail's ParkLiner

[frank_a]

What can I say? It's not hard to find cheaper covers, I wanted something custom fit that would last. So that's what I did. I don't mind waiting. This instant gratification world we live in is NOT the world I grew up in! I adapt best I can.

Frank

[frank_a]

I started the 30 amp inlet project today by cutting the 30 amp cable coming from the trailer:





Next was slipping the cut end of the cable through my new female end (make sure you put the black screw-on part on 1st!):



Once that was done, I cut the cable back 1-1/4", and stripped the wires 5/8":



Then it was wrestling the three 10 gauge wires in. Wrestling because white was on the "wrong" side in the 3 wire bundle and I couldn't move it around:



Everything goes back together, taking care to get the tab where it fits:



Finally, everything is snug, and here it is screwed onto the 30 amp male outlet that soon will be mounted in the electrical access door of the trailer. I need a 2-7/8 hole saw to do that, and apparently they're rarer than hen's teeth. I did locate one in Albany I can get Monday morning:



More later...

Frank

[frank_a]

Last ParkLiner project of the day - got all the correct grade 8 hardware for the jack, and to hold down my chains on the back two bolts. Done for da day, and good thing too, out of daylight.

Frank

[frank_a]

Keep in mind, anybody else doing this, if you use the power cord door as I'm doing, the backing plate needs to fit the inner opening, NOT the door dimensions. As you can see here, I have a piece of luan cut that just fits in, not tight, not loose. I may just use the 4 attachment stainless steel machine screws that mount the inlet to tie everything together (i.e., no glue):

[frank_a]

What could I replace this with that wouldn't crimp, or how do I get the crimps out? It's like this on both ends. The hose is very short and I'm not even sure I could get it off easily:

[frank_a]

I found where my 7 wire cable goes into the trailer on the curb side right up front. It's goes through a bulkhead fitting that keeps it in place and well sealed. I think I found the wires in my converter/battery/water tank compartment. Aren't these them?



Is there a terminal panel anywhere in a ParkLiner that makes it easy to find wires and hook into them, like for a Bragman switch?

Looking under the trailer is even more bewildering. I thought blue was for brakes, but I guess it's ground here?

[frank_a]

Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!

[Raz]

Originally Posted by frank_a

What could I replace this with that wouldn't crimp, or how do I get the crimps out? It's like this on both ends. The hose is very short and I'm not even sure I could get it off easily:

Go to the hardware store and find a light duty spring with an inside diameter equal to the outside diameter of the tubing. To get the hose off try heating with a hair dryer. Of course once the hose is off, a longer piece of tubing might not kink. Raz

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by frank_a

Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!

Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?

[Brian M. in NY]

Originally Posted by frank_a

Had a decent day to get this done today. Had the cable made, and then screwed around with a bunch of ideas for mounting this RV plug, ended up just doing it in the electrical entrance door. Door still works. Need some 1/2" shorter #8 pan head machine screws and some flat washers. Using all stainless steel stuff. Works great too!

Nice looking job, Frank.
I think I'll end up doing something similar in the spring.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?

Ya know Dave, hard to say. Everything seemed to work fine today. The hinge on this door is very solid. I think once the cord end is screwed on, it will be fine. I could cross brace it inside if I have to, but it would not be easy to do. I opted for the door because otherwise I would be disturbing insulation.

Frank

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

Nice looking job, Frank.
I think I'll end up doing something similar in the spring.

Thanks Brian. I have a 2-7/8 hole saw ya can borrow. Things are scarcer than hen's teeth!

Frank

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?

I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:



It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Jared J

I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:

Attachment 66552

It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.

Jared, was the flexing because of the weight of the original cord? This sounds like a good idea, because I want an extension cord anyways.

Thanks,

Frank

[Jared J]

More due to stiffness of the cord making it stick out a ways from the camper, and putting the weight that far out. With the 90 on the new cord, there's no leverage on the receptacle any more.

[DJO]

We have been pretty happy with the Calmark cover we got last August for our Parkliner. We did have to put a board and some cardboard on the roof to keep a puddle of water from forming but that was no big issue. Thanks for all the info on this thread!

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by DJO

We have been pretty happy with the Calmark cover we got last August for our Parkliner. We did have to put a board and some cardboard on the roof to keep a puddle of water from forming but that was no big issue. Thanks for all the info on this thread!

You wouldn't have any photos of how you lay the board and cardboard on top would you? I see what you mean, what with an indented roof. No need to reinvent the wheel!

Thanks,

Frank

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by Jared J

I did the same on my scamp, and I saw it flexing the fiberglass. I ended up getting a cord like this:

Attachment 66552

It stopped the flexing. I put a new end on the old cord and turned it into an extension cord. I had a hard time finding the end to do that, found one at camping world.

Jared, the 90° elbow on the plug of your cord looks like it would really help to reduce the bending moment on the door caused by the cord, and should help to keep your door from getting damaged. Good solution.

[frank_a]

Our trailer got stayed in last night by our youngest son Billy & his girlfriend. They stayed nice & toasty & loved the bed. I think I'll leave it up on the front deck & try it out myself when everyone leaves.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

Frank

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

Looks like a good solution Frank. How is the strength of the hinges and latch on the existing door? Do you think there will be any risk that the weight of the cord attached to the door may result in some damage to the door?

You could always purchase the 90 degree extension to get the weight off the door:

Camco 55532 PowerGrip 18" 90 Degree 30 AMP Female/30 AMP Male RV Locking Adapter

30 AMP 90 Degree Right Angle Adapter