Heartbroken - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-06-2012, 10:11 PM   #29
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Our Uhaul did not have a window covering when we got it. The hubby would not have one now unless it was transparent. He loves being able to see the traffic behind as he drives.

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Old 04-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #30
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First things first. Its all in the prep (I hope!)

I pounded the leftovers from 3 broken rivets down below the level of the fiberglass

Then I pulled off the 5 lbs of old butyl, dicor and Silicone that had been sealing the piano hinge mounting area/rail.

*Note. Old butyl cleans off effortlessly with vinegar and water. Dicor peels away easily with a sharp chisel to coax it along and the thin "Footprint" of the left over dicor can be sealed over again after it is cleaned with acetone.

Fortunately, the silicone was above the area I need to work in, so I did a reasonable clean off of the "wads and chunks" and will try the nifty 3m stuff mentioned in another thread to get the footprint off when I get more settled (Fixes on the road are SO much fun!)

With most of the surface cleaned with vinegar and water, and a good cleaning with acetone over that, I filled the holes with Dicor NON leveling sealant. I know this should have been glassed over, or at least epoxied, but it will all be covered and when it comes time to reseal, I will hopefully be in a better place to do proper glass work.

I dry fitted the first Drip Cap, marked where the mounting holes needed to be, drilled pilot holes for the #12 1/2 sheet metal screws I got. (Yeah, it DOES seem silly to drill new holes when you have just spent so much time fixing other holes right next to them!)

I fitted the back of the drip caps with butyl and mounted the caps with the screws after dipping the threads in Dicor.

Here is the first one mounted.
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dripcap1.jpg  
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:34 PM   #31
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Next, I did the same for the other side. I grumbled a bit as it seems I got pieces that were from different dies and the nice curvy flange is not the same radius on both. I will have to find a trim bit for the seam. I think I have one, but I need to wait.

I can't finish the job completely without self leveling Dicor (For the top of the Cap) The one and only RV supply store here is closed for the holiday weekend! I also need cap covers for the screw heads. I have only seen silver ones at RV stores.

Anyway, It looks like it was always intended to be there, It covers the holes AND it will actually serve its drip cap purpose over the window..somewhat.

and this is what those of us in the used RV business call.."An old Gypsy Trick" For the holes where the arm was and on the other side (I am pulling that one off) I will mount reflectors. I will patch those holes with dicor and eternabond.
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dripcap2.jpg   dripcap3.jpg  

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Old 04-06-2012, 10:46 PM   #32
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For 'fixing on the road' I think you did a pretty nice job!
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:22 AM   #33
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Your handy nice job.
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:31 AM   #34
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That really does look like it was always supposed to be there. Looks great!
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:46 AM   #35
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looks great, gina! those products you used--would that be sufficient for me to use to repair a small pea-sized hole from a stone hitting the front of our trailer? i intend on coating the front with grizzlygrip but i know i need to do something to repair this hole..but i don't have any experience in glass repair.....any ideas?
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:37 AM   #36
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Hi Gina,
Sorry for your mishap; there's always something.
My Trillium arrived without the front rock guard. I had the local machine shop make a frame from 1/2" square tubing with one central cross brace; plenty strong. I covered it with fiberglass roofing; inexpensive and durable. Not factory but functional. I had a shop in Michigan make up a full length offset aluminum piano hinge; perfect.

Your 'on the road' repair looks great. Good luck.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:26 AM   #37
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I would so like to cuddle your beagles! They are the cutest.

It's a good thing you know how to do all this stuff. You sure can make the lemonade.
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:20 PM   #38
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Thersa, I assume you are talking about the Dicor. Dicor is not really intended to fill holes, it is designed as a sealant for around items IN penetrations, such as roof vents, ac units, etc. It is also used as a pliable adhesive to hold things in place, such as wires on roofs from solar panels, antennas. (Not really designed for that, but it is a side effect that is commonly used) It is a Lap Sealent..it makes a nice barrier wher the seams of the skin on stickies come together, and it is also good with ridgeline seams on motorhmes where the sidewalls meet the roof, as well as around the seams from wall to roof on stickies with gutter rail. If you have an awning, you will no doubt find a bead if it all along the top of the rail the holds the canvas in.

There are two kinds of Dicor like this. Self leveling, which is thinner than the non leveling stuff I used. It actually seeks the lowest points (Like water) and oozes down into open spaces. This is the good stuff for roof sealing points, and anything on a horizontal surface. If you squeeze a 2" diameter lumpy blob an inch high on a horizontal surface and walk away.. when you come back in 5 mins, the blob will have nicely leveled itself into a 3 inch diameter smooth surfaced thingy with a skin on it. Thats why it works so well "Up Top". This is the stuff I need to finish the job properly at the top of the drip cap. It will seek and find any gaps not filled by the butyl and will seal the butyl as well.

The non leveling stuff is used on vertical surfaces. It does not seek lower ground and is pretty much gravity defiant. It stays where you put it. It also makes great "thread lock" that is removable. Thats why I dipped the screws in it, and it forms a nice little gasket under the head when some of it gets pushed out of the threads when tightened down.

The problem wilth filling holes on a cosmetic surface is that it is not very pretty. It doesn't sand easily, if at all. I used it because it was something I had on hand, and it was going to be covered up by a chunk of metal. No harm, no foul. Eventually, it will need to be resealed. How long, I can't say.

When exposed to air and the weather, Dicor will become hard and crack in about 3-5 years. It needs to be redone..this is the dreaded roof sealing stickie owners get to do as due diligence. The GOOD news is that you can simply dicor over the old stuff as long as it is clean and free of loose bits. This can be done several times, but eventually, the whole wad will need to come up and you start from scratch. Unlike silly cone, it is not all that hard to remove and it comes off cleanly.

After all that..my answer to your question is, no, I wouldn't use it for YOUR repair. The surface you are fixing needs to be smooth. I would see what I could use as a dowel in there, cut as flush as you can and use fiberglass resin over it and sand flush.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:03 PM   #39
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gina---what an excellently-explained tutorial. i thank you immensely. i fully understand these products' use now and i will explore further the resources to complete my repair before the grizzly grip is applied.
thanks so very, very much.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:31 PM   #40
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Awww Gina, sorry to hear of your lost F glass part. But your repair looks great! Enjoy your summer!
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:56 PM   #41
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Oh Gina my heart breaks with you. I so fell in love with Leo when Fred brought it back to camp in Quartzsite. You are however, a great lemonade maker. I so envy your abilities and knowledge. A long shot but how about a post on Craig's list for that piece. Maybe someone has a derelict in their back 40 and would sell you the piece.
Happy that you and critters are safe and hope you enjoy your hosting duties this summer.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #42
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Gina,
god bless you it will get better
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