Help with controller box install - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-16-2013, 10:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Hman66 View Post
Not sure about these numbers. The parts alone, prodigy 2, harness, 7 pin plug are over $200 off the internet. Labor is a bit time consuming. Just confused.
The parts prices are about what I paid.... maybe a I paid a bit more as the controller was a bit more expensive than the more recent prices.

The tow package on your trailer probable does not include the charge line (for charging the trailers battery when driving) so that needs to be run to the rear or the blue break controller line. Which as has been suggested needs to go through your firewall to the controller and then back to the rear of the trailer to the new seven pin harness. I paid about $175 in labour for having those items added - I live a big city where labour isnt cheap.

Camping World as others have suggested is often one of the more expensive places to have work done. Try a smaller RV shop or perhaps just a speciality hitch shop.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:29 AM   #16
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Newer vehicles have a terminal block up under the dash where you can plug in a harness to the brake controller. The harness should not be more than $40.00. Most hitch wiring is plug and play now days.
Chuck
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:40 AM   #17
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My experience is the same as yours. A 2" drop is not enough to get the tongue of the trailer flat or slightly nose down as recommended here.

Wranglers are sprung fairly softly though, so you'll be surprised the difference loading it up with all your stuff will make in ride height.

Our 16' SD has 290 lbs on the tongue, and the only way it is at level is to have a cooler or two, and a while week's worth of stuff in the jeep.

I'd imagine this situation is worse for the 2dr crowd with the shorter wheelbase.

My vote is I head down to harbor freight and pick up one of those adjustable hitches.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:07 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
The parts prices are about what I paid.... maybe a I paid a bit more as the controller was a bit more expensive than the more recent prices.

The tow package on your trailer probable does not include the charge line (for charging the trailers battery when driving) so that needs to be run to the rear or the blue break controller line. Which as has been suggested needs to go through your firewall to the controller and then back to the rear of the trailer to the new seven pin harness. I paid about $175 in labour for having those items added - I live a big city where labour isnt cheap.

Camping World as others have suggested is often one of the more expensive places to have work done. Try a smaller RV shop or perhaps just a speciality hitch shop.
I had mine installed in a city of 2 1/2 million people, not exactly a "small " town and the cost was under $200 total . The controller was a Tekonsha but not the P2 . The P2 was an additional $35 "Yes they installed a charge line" . It took less than an 1 hour for the install
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:45 AM   #19
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I expect the install time on a wrangler for someone who is experienced is probably 1.5 hrs. Took me about 3 hrs, and I had never installed one before.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:10 AM   #20
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IMHO: Camping World = Rip Off Artists.

There is a 7 pin plug that Camping World, and almost all other RV stores, sells that has a pigtail on it that your existing 4 pin line you have just plugs into.
All you have to do is add the line for the brakes and a charging line.

When we have the same controller installed at my local RV dealership it was $85 and took about 30 minutes.

As everyone mentioned, find another dealer to do the install.....
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:02 AM   #21
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when I bought my trailer last Nov, I went to a local trailer shop. As I remember the total cost was about $300, including the controller. My , new to me Scamp, had different wiring than was called for in the installation instructions of the controller, so I took it back the next day, the shop re- wired the Scamp plug to match the truck plug, and I was off. One good thing to check before you leave, the shop, is to hook up the trailer and check that all works as advertised, mine didn't and had to go back to get it straighteed out.

Good luck and enjoy
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by FTTRV View Post
Newer vehicles have a terminal block up under the dash where you can plug in a harness to the brake controller. The harness should not be more than $40.00. Most hitch wiring is plug and play now days.
Chuck
Chuck that may be true on some bands of vehicles but sadly not all. I have been actively looking for a new tug of late - both SUV and truck. Your right most of them come prewired for all the trailer lights regardless of if they have the factory tow package or not so its simple a matter of plugging in a harness for the lights to work.... sadly I have discovered that many of them still do not include the brake wire even when they have the factory tow packages installed - even on a number of the truck brands. A number of trucks I have looked at come with only a 4 pin plug and play connection from the factory even though they have the factory hitch installed
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:19 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by captsteve2002 View Post
when I bought my trailer last Nov, I went to a local trailer shop. As I remember the total cost was about $300, including the controller. My , new to me Scamp, had different wiring than was called for in the installation instructions of the controller, so I took it back the next day, the shop re- wired the Scamp plug to match the truck plug, and I was off. One good thing to check before you leave, the shop, is to hook up the trailer and check that all works as advertised, mine didn't and had to go back to get it straighteed out.

Good luck and enjoy
Yes there are a couple of different trailer wiring standards and the party doing the install needs to know what the trailer standard is prior to installing the wiring for the tugs plug in.

A diagram of how the Scamps are wired from the factory can be found here in the documents section of this forum. The good news is it is a common standard so the installer will probable only take one quick look at it and will be familiar with it & not need to look at it again.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:55 PM   #24
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I received a good price from our local U-Haul trailer place on install of 7 Pin plug. Less than $100 as I recall. More like $75 including the plug.

Turn, brake, and running lights will typically already have a connection box at the rear of the vehicle. Those wires are probably plug-n-play.

Existing brake controller wiring is variable. Some have a plug just for the controller under the dash and all the wires are already run. Plug-n-play. Others may have plug for some of the wires but still need a power wire hooked in or pulled to the hitch. Tow package would make me think it has at least some of this. Jeep dealer is best person to take a look and tell you what you have, and what will need to be added.

Power wire for charging trailer battery probably has to be pulled, a note on that. You want at least 10 gauge wire, not all trailer places will have it. If you can get 8 gauge that is even better. Bring that up before hand, you may have to bring your own or give them a chance to get some for your job. You can get it by the foot at big box home improvement stores.

You want this power wire hooked to an accessory circuit! Not directly to the battery. Otherwise if you leave your camper plugged into the hitch you can draw down the tow vehicle battery by running things in the camper. On an accessory circut when you turn off the car the power wire is off.

Long run of wire drops the voltage at the far end. Thinner the wire more voltage drops for the same distance. Voltage at trailer has to be greater than existing battery voltage in order to force a charge into the trailer battery. Our trailer place did not have anything thicker than 12 guage in stock. Suitable for charging the battery for break away emergency brakes on a utility trailer not thick enough to charge a camper battery.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:51 PM   #25
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Good advice, except where to tie in the charging wire. If you use an existing accessory circuit you will be at the risk of blowing and already loaded fuse and there is small chance that circuit will have a very heavy capacity/wire anyway.

Many newer vehicles have a heavily fused terminal just for this. On many GM's it's called the "B" terminal and it located in the under hood fuse box along with a 30 amp fuse, and is the designated point for the trailer charging line.

If you want that line to be open when the key is OFF, install a solenoid type battery isolator in the charging line and use a lead to an accessory circuit to provide the .5 amps it needs to operate the solenoid when the key is ON.

Also, if you connect direct to the battery circuit, be sure to put a 30 amp circuit beaker there as well
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:07 PM   #26
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Good catch Bob, I totally blew by the solenoid part of that circut in my explanation!
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