How Many Scissor Jacks? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-18-2014, 09:10 AM   #15
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The Tacky Color is so you can see them & don't leave them behind. It used to be that finding left behind wooden leveling blocks and boards were a reliable source of campfire wood.....
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:18 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Seth and Desiree View Post
After using the Scamp for the first time this weekend, we decided we need better/easier stabilization. I assume you'd just use 2 scissor jacks, supporting the rear of the Scamp?

I also assume the tires should always be in contact with the ground? Sorry, dumb questions, I know. But we had a tricky time getting level the other night and I want to correct it properly next time. Thanks!

-seth

Leveling and stabilizing can be very easy using the attached stabilizers.
First level side to side at the wheels. You can use blocks of wood or plastic legos, or a BAL Wheel Leveler. Do this while still hooked up.
Next unhook.
Now lower the front with the tongue jack so that the front a bit lower than level. Deploy the rear stabilizers. Jack the front up with the tongue jack to level. All done.

If you try to level side to side with stabilizers, scissors jacks, or anything else at the frame you risk warping the frame.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Seth and Desiree View Post

I also assume the tires should always be in contact with the ground? Sorry, dumb questions, I know. But we had a tricky time getting level the other night and I want to correct it properly next time. Thanks!

-seth

Go to Walmart or Camping World and buy yourself a box of levelling blocks - makes the job much easier. They not only work well at levelling the trailer side to side by placing under a wheel on one side of the trailer to raise it, they also work well placed under jacks to stop them from sinking into gravel or soft dirt.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:35 PM   #18
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They usually come in a bag of 10 and they have some variation of a Lego-type design that allows you to lock them together in a pyramid shape if you need more than 1 layer under the tire. (A pyramid is easier to run the tire up instead of just 2 stacked on top of each other.)

Plus, I use them to level the picnic table after I've dragged it to the otherwise perfect location, and sometimes under the front jack as a pad, sometimes under the rear stablizers. You can use them to fold your underwear (T shirts mostly), they don’t leave (much of) a mark if you use them to whack an unruly camper, they make an alarmingly loud clap if you slap two together to chase off nosey dogs, you can secure hot dogs to keep them from rolling off the table. I like them so much I carry TWO bags.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:36 PM   #19
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The tires & suspension must always be supporting most of the trailers weight. Stabilizers shouldn't be adding more than 1-2" of lift(?). You level with the tires on ramps or blocks first, then lift only slightly to get the stabilizers in place. They aren't supposed to support much weight where they are usually placed/attached.

When you see those huge motorhomes leveled with the wheels off the ground it's because they have hydraulics lifts attached to chassis points designed for that purpose.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by reeves99 View Post
Remember the good old days "before plastic" when we made our own chocks and levelling pads from wood? Kids today have it so easy! ha ha ha
The problem with using wood is that when it gets wet it also gets very slippery and may not be what you want to be the only thing holding your trailer in place when someone gives your trailer a slight nudge or pushes off on it Twice using wood as levelling blocks under tires and jacks I have had a trailer take a trip on its own. Slipped off wood blocks and taken a little spin.... last one could have been a bad one but a large fallen log stopped the trailer from going further than it could have... bad news some gelcoat damage due to contact with fallen tree.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:03 PM   #21
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Another problem with wood is when crossing borders. I carry 2x6 scraps to put under the stabilizers. Mr. border guard didn't like them last year. I could be carrying diseased soil across the border. An agriculture thing.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:59 PM   #22
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I just wish they made them in a nondescript colour like black or brown, instead of the neon orange that looks tacky.
At least they "LOOK". These old eyes would loose black or brown. 8-{D}}
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:29 AM   #23
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Leveler Option

Anyone use these? I saw these Andersen levelers in another thread a while ago. I ordered a set from Amazon for about $45 and will be glad to tell you all how they work after we pick up our camper around 1 Aug. Until then take any of my suggestions with a grain of salt. They appear to be well built. Hope my links work.

Video:
Andersen Camper Leveler - level your trailer on the first try! - YouTube

Amazon link:
Amazon.com: Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler: Automotive
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:48 AM   #24
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I prefer Step levelers, ramps are scary to this camper.

In the demo the Andersen device sank half of it's thickness into the soft ground, in part because all of the weight is concentrated into a very small part of the ramp, whereas steps and blocks distribute the weight over a wider area. And what do you do when 1.5" isn't enough.

And then you have to pull the locking part out while the trailer is still on the ramps or deal with the ramp kicking up and damaging the trailer.

Once again, simple trumps fancy new gadgets, at least in this case.

And BTW: How do you use a level on the side wall of an FGRV? Not many of them are all that flat or at a right angle to the floor inside.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:31 AM   #25
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With a Scamp 13' you will find the Bal Leveller does the job.
trailer leveling - YouTube
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:35 AM   #26
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We Shall See

Bob I think every situation will be a little different. I'll play it by ear. The device seemed to get some decent reviews, but there's nothing like actual experience to really find out. I did think about the "sinking" possibility, and will probably end up taking some wood as well.

I bought some of the small stick on bubble levels for the front of the trailer near the belt line. May have to shim it to match the curves. I'm hoping to be able to see that as I tell my trusty ground guide (wife) when to insert the ramp and chocks from the drivers seat. Our roles might reverse depending on how it goes. She was really good at helping with boat launching back in the day. I hope she's as nimble when dodging the flying ramp, wood planks and chock!

Like I said, I'll let you all know how this all works out. Thanks for the advice.

Tom
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:41 AM   #27
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I agree

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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
With a Scamp 13' you will find the Bal Leveller does the job.
trailer leveling - YouTube
I've seen those Roy and agree. In fact they were on my "Wish List" but thought I'd go with something a little less expensive. If the ramp device fails, that will be my next purchase. Oh yeah, and a pizza delivery case for it. Thx

Tom
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:27 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by TomK View Post
Oh yeah, and a pizza delivery case for it.
A piece of foam pipe insulation does almost the same job of keeping the grease off things and things from getting into the grease.

Don't forget the Bal Leveller doubles as wheel chocks.
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