How Many Scissor Jacks?

[Seth and Desiree]

After using the Scamp for the first time this weekend, we decided we need better/easier stabilization. I assume you'd just use 2 scissor jacks, supporting the rear of the Scamp?

I also assume the tires should always be in contact with the ground? Sorry, dumb questions, I know. But we had a tricky time getting level the other night and I want to correct it properly next time. Thanks!

-seth

[Daniel A.]

I use two scissor jacks and two stands if you don't support the tire sides it will still rock side to side.

[stevebaz]

isn't their jacks under your rear bumper. my 1987 13 has them. You need them so you don't go in the back of the trailer and pop a wheelie.
I also carry a adjustable jack stand and put it under one front corner. I also chock the tires. If your trailer tongue jack has a flat foot it is more stable than with a front wheel.

[Seth and Desiree]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

isn't their jacks under your rear bumper. my 1987 13 has them.............If your trailer tongue jack has a flat foot it is more stable than with a front wheel.

No, they aren't there. Some crappy extra ones came with it but I don't like them. Good idea about the flat foot vs. wheel in the front. I have the wheel but will now consider how to make the flat foot

-seth

[Kevin A]

We use 4 Waynes's RV stabilizers... One on each corner. If the ground is really unlevel, we may use a scissor jack or two also. Our rear stabilizers are worthless.

[Bob Miller]

Whoa..... There are "Stabilizers" and there are "Lifting Jacks" You don't want to try to level your trailer with the stabilizers, they are just that, stabilizers.

Use ramps, blocks or that crank-up leveling thingy, and level your trailer left to right before you unhitch. Then use your tongue jack for front to back leveling and putting some tension on the stabilizers. There are crank down stabilizers that are easy to use, but they take up some under chassis clearance when installed. You want most of the weight to remain on the suspension and tires.

[The Minimalist]

This is what came on my Little Joe.

1k RAM Stabilizer Jack | SJ-100 | Nuera Trailer Parts

Atwood makes 'em too.

After we level from side to side, I jack the front so that it is just a hair lower than level, bubble slightly forward of center, then I drop the jacks. Bringing the jack up to level sets them, and they are very stable.

Also, there are a couple of different dolly chocks available, plastic doughnut thingies, that will keep the front more secure. That way, if I need it I still have the dolly wheel.

Clif

[Jon Vermilye]

4 BAL scissor jacks came with my Escape 17B. There is enough tongue weight on the Escape that I don't need the jacks to keep from tipping the trailer when in the rear bed, but they do make it more stabile. If I don't unhitch, I'll often not bother with the front jacks, but generally use all 4 if unhooked.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Seth and Desiree

No, they aren't there. Some crappy extra ones came with it but I don't like them. Good idea about the flat foot vs. wheel in the front. I have the wheel but will now consider how to make the flat foot

-seth

Flat Foot? Available at your RV dealer or on-line. But be sure to measure the outside diameter of your jacks end first, there are different sizes.

[Steve L.]

Personally, I don't like the scissor jacks. I use the BAL crank down stabilizer with the pads as I feel they're more, well, stabile. The cement block is just for home use. I don't bring them with me.

If I were forced to go with scissor jacks I'd probably add the lock-arm stabilizing bar.

[Donna D.]

Level front to back with the tongue jack. Level side to side at the wheels. Use blocks, lego pads, Anderson, etc., etc under the low tire. Use scissor jacks, etc. for stabilizing. NOT leveling.

[reeves99]

Remember the good old days "before plastic" when we made our own chocks and levelling pads from wood? Kids today have it so easy! ha ha ha

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by reeves99

Remember the good old days "before plastic" when we made our own chocks and levelling pads from wood? Kids today have it so easy! ha ha ha

I made 2 sets of wooden chocks last week. I glued up some treated plywood and cut them at the proper angle. I've had 2 sets of the plastic /rubber chocks crack and break from winter temperature (-30 Deg F)

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by reeves99

Remember the good old days "before plastic" when we made our own chocks and levelling pads from wood? Kids today have it so easy! ha ha ha

Until a year ago, I always did just that. I finally gave in and bought the Lynx Levellers, as they are lighter and take up less space. I just wish they made them in a nondescript colour like black or brown, instead of the neon orange that looks tacky.

[Bob Miller]

The Tacky Color is so you can see them & don't leave them behind. It used to be that finding left behind wooden leveling blocks and boards were a reliable source of campfire wood.....

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Seth and Desiree

After using the Scamp for the first time this weekend, we decided we need better/easier stabilization. I assume you'd just use 2 scissor jacks, supporting the rear of the Scamp?

I also assume the tires should always be in contact with the ground? Sorry, dumb questions, I know. But we had a tricky time getting level the other night and I want to correct it properly next time. Thanks!

-seth

Leveling and stabilizing can be very easy using the attached stabilizers.
First level side to side at the wheels. You can use blocks of wood or plastic legos, or a BAL Wheel Leveler. Do this while still hooked up.
Next unhook.
Now lower the front with the tongue jack so that the front a bit lower than level. Deploy the rear stabilizers. Jack the front up with the tongue jack to level. All done.

If you try to level side to side with stabilizers, scissors jacks, or anything else at the frame you risk warping the frame.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Seth and Desiree

I also assume the tires should always be in contact with the ground? Sorry, dumb questions, I know. But we had a tricky time getting level the other night and I want to correct it properly next time. Thanks!

-seth

Go to Walmart or Camping World and buy yourself a box of levelling blocks - makes the job much easier. They not only work well at levelling the trailer side to side by placing under a wheel on one side of the trailer to raise it, they also work well placed under jacks to stop them from sinking into gravel or soft dirt.

[Steve L.]

They usually come in a bag of 10 and they have some variation of a Lego-type design that allows you to lock them together in a pyramid shape if you need more than 1 layer under the tire. (A pyramid is easier to run the tire up instead of just 2 stacked on top of each other.)

Plus, I use them to level the picnic table after I've dragged it to the otherwise perfect location, and sometimes under the front jack as a pad, sometimes under the rear stablizers. You can use them to fold your underwear (T shirts mostly), they don’t leave (much of) a mark if you use them to whack an unruly camper, they make an alarmingly loud clap if you slap two together to chase off nosey dogs, you can secure hot dogs to keep them from rolling off the table. I like them so much I carry TWO bags.

[Bob Miller]

The tires & suspension must always be supporting most of the trailers weight. Stabilizers shouldn't be adding more than 1-2" of lift(?). You level with the tires on ramps or blocks first, then lift only slightly to get the stabilizers in place. They aren't supposed to support much weight where they are usually placed/attached.

When you see those huge motorhomes leveled with the wheels off the ground it's because they have hydraulics lifts attached to chassis points designed for that purpose.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by reeves99

Remember the good old days "before plastic" when we made our own chocks and levelling pads from wood? Kids today have it so easy! ha ha ha

The problem with using wood is that when it gets wet it also gets very slippery and may not be what you want to be the only thing holding your trailer in place when someone gives your trailer a slight nudge or pushes off on it Twice using wood as levelling blocks under tires and jacks I have had a trailer take a trip on its own. Slipped off wood blocks and taken a little spin.... last one could have been a bad one but a large fallen log stopped the trailer from going further than it could have... bad news some gelcoat damage due to contact with fallen tree.